Well did alot of searching and either completely missed or just havent found it yet, but heres what I got; on this 30 Ford frame I got I also got two axels with it one straight or rather slightly curved, measuring 36 7/8 perch to perch and 2 1/4 boss and 50 3/4 kp to kp from the Ford specs I found here it's Ford.. that one I have the wishbones and tired spring for but wasnt planning on using. The other one I got with it measures out at 41" perch to perch with 2 5/16 boss and 50 3/4 pin to pin has roughly a 2 inch drop, this one I was planning on using rather than having to find 250 for a new axel, and then still get spring etc. Any help is greatly appreciated.. Thanks, JJ
Sorry I was really tired last night.. I'm trying to identify the second axel dosent fit with what Ford spec I've found and havent found any Chevy, Chrysler or any other specs yet..
Sounds like a late '40s early '40s axlle. I could go measure mine but someone will have the specs here so that I don't have to. If it is a cross leaf it is most likely a Ford.
OJ, The dodge/plymouth/chrysler axle is a parrallel leaf axle. I didn't think to ask if it has perches like in a spring pad or holes like for a perch bolt. Good question. Uh never mind MOPAR axles are tube axles.
That one with the wider spacing is a later one, like 37-48. You really don't want to use that one as you will never find a spring to fit it if you go spring over or spring behind. Use the one with the 36 inch spacing and you will be better off. Don Here are some pictures to help you identify what you have.
J J Click on here http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13788 Scroll down and there is a sheet with measurements. I'm not 100% convinced that it is totally accurate but it is pretty close. I forgot about Sid's His measurements are spot on. The problem with running the later axles on an early car is that if you split the bones and attach the ends to the frame rails the tires will hit the bones and you have no turning radius.
I found those specs and this didnt quite match perch bosses are untouched and are 2 5/16 and 41 apart even with all the varried measurements I found on fords I started ***uming it might be chevy or something, but by all rights it's closer to later ford, I do have split wish bones and was affraid they might hit.. damnit! the top of the stock axel has rub marks from the spring and I wanted to go as low as possible without z'ing the frame. theres a blacksmith shop here in town thats supposed to be good with axels may go talk to him and see whats gonna be the most cost efficiant alternative for me. On a side note, heard a few rummors about new axels breaking anyone know anything on that?
All axles break at some point. The new axles in question are normally cast as opposed to forged and it usually has to do with a bad run. I am not afraid to use the wide axles there are ways around the most common problems, the radius rods can be nent for clearance and if you want to go spring over you can get a main leaf made, it isn't as cost effective as having one laying around but not expensive in the whole scheme of things. One of the things that has killed us as builders is the mentality that everything has to just bolt together. I think it comes from the 1-800 hot rod era. Most things have to be modified to work unless you are building a bone stock car and have all the original parts. That's a nice looking axle by the way. It appears to have been chromed at some point in its lifetime.
There's only one kind of axle that looks like a Ford axle. Except the copies of ford axles. There's several threads on here about the process or composition being at fault for certain batches experienced failure BTW. Back to yours. That rules the rest out chevy is sooooooo different . there's two sizes of bosses 2.25 & 2.00 The 41" puts yours at 46-48. You anguish over 2 5/16 vs 2.25 is something I can't help you with.
Ahh so my old Snap On tape measure and frame guage are my problem .. damn.. I like that! On the bosses I just kinda looking at the whole pic not putting my blinders on and focusing on what I need to, not like I cant machien a 1/16th off her to fit. wasnt chromed before I was just cleaning it up, little to much free time lately. I was considering having a reversed eye main leaf done up to fit, the rear spring I have is missing 3 so figured if I go that way do both at once. My old neighboor had an axel he had issues with supposedly a chevy looked ford, he's a turnkey guy and couldnt find anything to fit so he chucked it. all my experience with solid axel stuff was in the 80-90's pulling them off for customers to go IFS, shame I didnt keep any of it! even lost my book of specs I had then when we last moved.. I generally fab up everything I can unless I have no choice it's my version of art.. so for the most part my original ***umption of it being a 40s ford is right, now I just gotta figure out spindles, and this may seem like a dumb question but what about using early chevy spindles on the ford axel is there a huge difference? I ask because a guy has a pair and is interested in my 1950 craftsman table saw..