4bbl holley on 350 sbc/ leaking from top rail of carb

So the idle screws are the ones on the side of the metering block on front of carb correct?

 

Yes, and when you turn the screws in, do not over tighten them! When you start to feel them getting snug, stop!

 

Ok, let me try doing this real quick then. I noticed the vacuum modulator on trans is the correct one but its the newer style one and the nipple for the vacuum hose us smaller or harder to get a hose onto and doesnt fit aswell as the old one.

 

http://youtu.be/UPGLUsW5ZeE This must be followed. And done with some one holding the brake while in gear. Very important.

 

Use lube (!) to slippy dat beach.

 

Well I checked and the vacuum hose on the modulator is way bigger then the inlet vacuum source on the carb. So I am going to have to figure something out.

 

Use a full length of 5/16 vacuum hose. It'll fit on the carb and with a little spray of wd40 in the end of the hose then the hose should slip on the vacuum modulator nipple.

 

Y'all check the latest Youtube clip? When those screws are SET at maximum vac level (in gear, foot brake held) you will likely have to re-set the float level. These are key. You list your changes on a large sheet of cardboard. Itemize each step done.

 

Ok I will grab some of that hose after work tomorrow. So switching the hoses around and what not...What does that test?

 

Possible vacuum leaks.
Don't worry about fine tuning your carb yet! That's for later.

 

I just wish someone lived closer to help me knock this out

 

So the 5/16 line will go from modulator to the vac nipple under the front fuel bowl? The smaller nipple?

 

Yes

 

Well I started the motor this morning to move the car and I have to keep in the gas and rev it so it doesn't die. An old timer told its most likely too retarded?

 

Was the motor still cold or did you let it warm up a bit?
You have no choke!

 

Take some pix of your carb, hoses, distributor, and over all engine shot.

 

I'm going to take a shot of the motor when I get home after work. I trie dwarming it up the best I could since it keeps dying and seems like timing

 

Well I did all what you guys told me and the motor starts but I have to punch the gas and stay on it or it dies right away.

 

Is that when it's cold?

 

You have a tach? Set the idle to where it will not die. How fast is that? Does it maintain the idle w/out having to feather it? The idle circuits may have debris in them. It was/is imperative that during the tear down they were blown out. Really, it should have had a kit (unproven carb) put in to it while it was apart.

 

Yeah I went through it and put all new gaskets and seals. Guess it wasn't good enough
If anyone here is near me in SOCAL please PM me and maybe we can meet up and get this car running.

 

Did you blow out the idle circuits.? We know the gasket and rings deal.

 

I blew out the Carb the best I could

 

Where's the pics!!

 

I will try and post the pics in a little bit. I have a question so I shouldn't have the vacuumhoses teed off at all right?

 

Look. Helter Skelter is going on. Stop it. Hook up all vac hoses. One hose goes to the carb (ft bottom) from the distributor. Check? One goes from trans module to intake, check? They must be snug to fitting.

 

Check...but the trans module is teed with the booster then goes to intake then the PCv is on the rear of passenger valve cover and goes to base of Carb at the rear passenger side

 

WHOA! One: the distrib-to-carb nipple at front of carb. Done?

 

That is hooked up too

 

You really need somebody with a little knowhow to give you a little hands on help. If nobody close comes forward and you have a little time try this. Find the idle screw on the front corner of the carb that opens the primary throttle plates, screw it in a turn or two, unplug the vacuum advance hose and plug the port on the carb. Now get a 9/16 end wrench and loosen the hold down bolt a little bit at the base of the distributor, grab a hold of the vacuum advance can and pull it towards you about a 1/4 ". Now try to start it, if you can get it to start and run, even if way to fast, you can then start to feather the idle speed screw back down. If you can get it to stay running then play with the timing a little, and get it to a slow rpm, if you make it that far then plug the vacuum advance line back on, if you have the base timing half way close the engine will speed up and smooth out, then you can back the idle down a little more. If the above don't work try moving the distributor a little the other way, would not hurt to put a chalk mark or something on the manifold to go by before you start moving it.