After searching here, google, and other forums I still can't get a straight answer. I'm running a 1963 corvette L79 327 small block. I have researched all the casting numbers and I'm pretty sure that is what it is. The only modifications I have are lake style headers, and a 3x2 setup. My transmission took a ****, it was TH350C, I'm upgrading my transmission to a 4sp OD. The vehicle has had an idling issue ever since I got it. I have checked and redone everything fuel wise. I have finally come to the conclusion It had the wrong type of torque convertor on it. I can not find a straight answer on what stall to run. I think I have narrowed it down to 2500-3000. But I would like to get your guys opinions before I dump a chunk of change on a new convertor. Thank you guys in advance for any help you can offer
Light car 2200-2500 should get you there. I run L-79 cams all the time and as much compression as I can get by with, if you have a 327 mostly original you should be up in th 11:1 range if I recall, and you should start climbing up on the cam in the 2200 range. If you call Pheonix transmission and tell them what you got they will make a suggestion or tailor a converter for you.
Lippy, a friend just bought a 62 vette it's a 340 HP and solid lifter cam, sounds to me like the 30/30 cam noise wise.
I think I'm wrong on the year, I'm at work and can't check the numbers on the block. I do know it has 461 heads though.
If you are upgrading to 4sp overdrive like a 4l80E kinda thing? then you don't spec a converter. the ****** comes with a computor taht talks to the converter and it'll tell it when to stall or lock up. I've used hughes trannies with 502/502 motors and they idle and act fine in a parking lot etc. very nice setups.
The true L-79 came out in 1965 with hydraulic lifters. I had a 63 327-340 which is solid lifters but a smaller grind on the cam than the 1964 365 30-30 came. The valves are smaller too. Easy to spot off of the block 365/375 heads have hardly enough room between them for a finger nail. The 340HP intake valves are smaller giving a visible distance between the valves looking at the combustion chamber.
Contact any one of the major converter companies and have as much info as possible when you call. They will point you in the right direction.
I will be going with a built 2004r, it will be an easy swap with the th350. I want to stay away from computers controlling things. I have talked to numerous transmission builders here in town, I have searched al over the net. I have got so many different answers from different sources it is mind boggling. That's why I posted here to get some real info on other peoples set ups that have worked for them.
What kind of carbs you using. With the 200r4 the TV cable has to have the right adjustment or you will KILL the trans fast. Talk to your trans builder he will be able to make sure it's right I had a 3x2 set up with Rochester and no problem with the TV cable and the trans worked great. Hope this makes sense. Jim
Having dealt with lots of converter people i haqve come to ralize they are all full of ****. They ask what your torque is, what your hp is, how heavy the car, what cam, what carb, how big the tire is, what color the car is, what the gear ratio is, and adnauseum. Then they crunch the numbers and come up with the perfect converter!....and wouldn't you just ****ing know they have got it on the shelf and can ship today! whats your credit card number. I guarantee if you wait a half hour and call back they'll spec a completely different converter. Google 'boss hog' i think the proper company name is ACC or something like that, they're in the carolinas and i have sold thier converters for years and had just one problem that they took care of immediatly. Tell them to skip the scientific ******** and give you something that'll lock up around 1800 or 2K...in other words a converter they claim is good for about 2500 or so. A good friend bought 2 race trannies and converters from ati, they'd stall at 4500rpm. He has one of them streetrace cars and it is a pia to get a converter in it. He put the converter in, started the engine, dropped it in gear and it barked the tires. They said send it back, 2 weeks later he puts it back in and the car goes to about 2500rpm and he can't hold it on the brake. You can imagine how pissed he is, the trannies were about $2K each and the converters about $800 each. he takes the converters back to ati - they are within driving distance from hereabouts - rusty, the senior sales guy (you'd see him at national events with the ati trailor) is calming keith down and showing him all the hightech equipment they use to make stuff, he shows him the cnc mills and cnc lathes and the digitzed comparators, computer controlled venetian blinds and they walk past a bench where keiths converter is laid open like a bagel and the tech has his arm around one half while bending the fins with a pair of pliers!
Are you sure about that? The converter needs to be built with the right stall speed. Even if it's a lockup converter it won't stall more than it's built to stall.
Makes total sense, I'm running rochester 2gc carbs. I have installed a built 2004r in my OT cutl*** and paid a professional to set the TV cable. Which I will do on this build. Could you post a pic of how you set it up on the throttle bracket? Any more suggestions on what stall I should go with?
Makes perfect sense. I installed a 2004r in my OT cutl*** and paid someone to adjust the tv cable. It was worth the piece of mind. I'm running rochester 2gc carbs on my set up. Any one else have an opinion on what stall convertor I should use?
On the cheap you can buy a Dayco converter (this is the company that rebuilds converters for the trans rebuild industry) Using a 200r4, get one for a 1987 Buick Grand national. Car weight is a little more than yours possibly, you have a little more torque so the stall will be just a tad over 2k and the lockup clutch will still be in there and the Daaco converters are LOW COST! Other than that, I would use FTI they have always done perfect converters for me, and I use a lot of them. Their converter got my junk car to 1.49 60 ft.
Sir, I'm following this thread, and your statement about the idling issue has set off some red flags. Heres my take on this issue, since we have no idea about the camshaft that is in your rig lets ***ume it's stock for now. A fairly healthy GM cam none the less, but not one to require a high stall converter. I would start this over and determine 100% the condition of the engine internally and from a combustion standpoint. Vacuum gauge first. Leak down test second, if that's not at all possible, a compression test. Do these and report back. Now we need to verify we don't have a cam going flat. If after all of the above cuts the mustard, we need to try and fiqure out some cam specs by at least lift at the valve. This is fairly easy and may show that you indeed have a cam other than came from the factory. With the vacuum test we can also determine possible valve issues as well. See you didn't mention you are chirping the tires putting it into gear, or really having to fight the converter when you stop. Two indicators its not the converter, but a engine issue. Take my advice and totally isolate the problem before dumping money on a converter that you MIGHT not need.
Your rig is not that light, meaning for example a converter that begins to Flash at say 3000 RPM in a heavy car, might begin to Flash as little as 2200 in a very light car, another reason for my other post and my feelings about what I wrote to try and help, TR
Thank you traditions racing. Here is where I am at. Motor idles fine, I can pull the accelerator bracket back and it accelerates fine. If I put it in gear and apply the break it stalls. I have rebuilt the carbs, rebuilt the fuel system, have fuel pressure set at 3 lbs. Compression in motor is fine. Timing is where it needs be. My buddy and I put the rear on jacks so we could let wheel spin while diagnosed. Next thing I know the driveshaft shot out of the car. One of the u joints snapped and boom. Transmission locked up and I found out it was th350c with a lock up not hooked up. Regardless I need a transmission, I'm going with the 2004r because it is an easy replacement for the th350, it has overdrive, and I have a nice little set of rebuilt hurst lightning rods to use also. I have been fighting this stalling issue eversince I got it, which has been almost 6 months now.
Thank you for your help I really appreciate it. The reason I said 3000, is that it is a s10 frame(sshhhh don't tell), all the fenders are fibergl*** so the only metal is the cab and bed, but as I said it is a guestimate
I used a Lokar bracket TRP-4003 it bolts under your back carb and has the place to hook up a Lokar type TV cable. Mount the cable to your center carb and you can adjust it as you need to.
Have known these guys for years straight shooters Neal Chance raceing torque converters ph 316-542-9869
I swapped the 200R with a 2500 stall converter into a 3300 lb OT car that had had a T-400. Big block mind you but with a 230/236 @ 050 cam I find that stall speed perfect for the street and play time at the strip, nothing hard core. I never found the TV cable adjustment to be as super sensitive as some say, if its out you'll know right away because it won't shift worth a **** so I don't see how anyone could "burn up" a 200R unless you work at it.
Thank You guys so much I really appreciate it. For clarification the block number is 3782870 The heads are 461'S, I also see e64 stamped on the heads
I have used the Boss Hog convertors in a couple of L79 equipped cars, and used the 2200-2400 stall. No problem, and gace enough slip to stop the creeping in gear the owners were experiencing. These were in Turbo 400's, but the similar stall should work good.
The Jalopy Journal
