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Looking for tricks/tips to gain clearance for rear brake line AV8 rear

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by banjorear, Sep 3, 2012.

  1. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,829

    banjorear
    Member

    I'll try to get picts. to show what I'm trying to overcome, but I'm looking for tips/tricks to gain some clearance when running the rear brake line on a AV8.

    Here's the deal: I'm using those PSI cast spring hangers. Our friend Zach did a great job of getting them on the axle tubes, but it's a tight fit the brake cly. Brakes are '40's

    I thinking I've heard folks switching left to right and vice verse, but that would throw off the e-brake tunnels for the rear plates.

    Maybe the question should be, how tight of a bend can one put in a brake line without it not working? Does that even make sense or a concern if it isn't kinked or crushed?

    Getting back to work on my stalled AV8 project and would like to start thinking of things I need to do or get before Hershey comes in Oct.

    Thanks,

    Banjo.
     
  2. HomemadeHardtop57
    Joined: Nov 15, 2007
    Posts: 4,340

    HomemadeHardtop57
    Member

    You could probably switch the wheel cylinders like you mentioned if they seat into the backing plate correctly. Haven't tried that though. You also might be able to put a very small notch right on the edge of the hanger plate for clearance.
     
  3. you can bend a brake line very tight IF you have a good tube bender , mine are all Ridgid.

    pictures?
     
  4. I've mounted 40 style juice on several Model A axle housings. Many have looked at how I do it and have said "that can't work" But it does. Mount the backing plates with the wheel cyl on the bottom and the E-Brake access hole facing forward. Be sure you mount the long shoe to the rear as it should be. Hook up the E-Brake as it should be. Fact is the shoes don't know if they are being pushed from the top or bottom. Yes the bleeder is on the bottom side and I've learned when using a pressure bleeder it's not a problem. It's a little more difficult to get the air out pumping the pedal. It's just that easy.
    The Wizzard
     
  5. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,829

    banjorear
    Member

    OK, thanks. I was wondering about doing it this way and I was concerned about the bleeder being below the cly., but makes sense.
     
  6. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Early Ford brakes :remember one thing the long shoe ALWAYS goes to the bigger bore size on the WC. Right side up upside down whatever.
     
  7. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    It fits quite easily, here's one lying around the workshop , this one was done years ago, the brake line is a bit ugly, but really the only thing you have to do is cut off the shock ball mount. As shown here.. Don't bother flipping or rotating backing plates.. No need.
     

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  8. Von Dago
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 507

    Von Dago
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Good to see you're working on that thing again. :D
     
  9. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,829

    banjorear
    Member

    Thanks. I appreciate the pict.

    This is where a pict. of what I have is needed. The spring perches that are mounted on the tubes are pretty close to the brake clys. It will make sense once I post a pict.
     
  10. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,829

    banjorear
    Member

    Trying to. Cleaned up the garage and doing little by little.
     

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