Features The Official 60-66 C-10 Chevy Truck Picture Thread

Had to go see this and find out, why? Turns out it was a rusted hulk, with a competely rotted out drip rail and rusted-through roof panel. He went way too far putting a stall trans and such in it, and the whole underside support system was so far gone as to be dangerous on curves, but God help me I kinda liked it.

 

http://www.gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm

From the site above it looks like the boards were all the same widths for the mentioned years. I used these measurements for my 64 and it matched my old wood.

 

the 60-62 had a wider frame, so the bolt holes are all in different spots.

 

Heres my patina 63

 

nice mano!

You coming to the Spin Out in Brimfield ,OH Saturday? Check my posts.

Later, Bill

 

Tim & Scott were telling me about it. Ill check on your post for date & time.

 

Getting close to being road worthy. 15" wheels, 3" drop front and rear, just need to install the new bed wood and fix the demons controlling the horn....

 

Just picked this up this thread is awesome looking to do same things with this awesome thread!

 

What did you paint that with? Looks like the perfect matte / suede.

 

I'm pretty sure markeb01 used john deere, blitz black on his truck.

-W

 

I'm looking to bag the rear of my truck and want to lay it pretty much on or close to the ground. Any suggestions on how much of a notch I'll need? I put 4 inch drop coils on and hate that I can't hit a switch to get into a driveway with ease. Any tips are much appreciated.

 

Yeah I'd like to do the same

 

Here's the latest pic of my '64 after I got the rear end narrowed, the rear coils and drop spindles installed, and bolted up the ET Super wheels that I restored.

 

6" notch will just about do what you want, along with 3" blocks between trailing arms and rearend.

 

I believe that blocks between trailing arms and the axle pads will give you scrub line problems. Attached is my solution to get the back end down. It actually was too low and my tires scrubbed the bed, so I had to add blocks between the tops of the springs and the new crossmember. If you have the skills to notch the frame, this is a piece of cake. Just substitute bags for the springs.

 

flat n low, what size tire and rims are you running on the rear. I love how it is filled to the max.

 

I finally got some time to tinker with my C10 this weekend. Found lots of rust & discovered the fuel tank is garbage.

 

another shot of my 66, tubbed with 29×15.50 rears. Daily driver w/ ps, pdb, tilt, 5 lug.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

There are no issues at all with 2" blocks, and borderline scrubline limit with 3". I've done many, as well as many friends. Trucks that are laid out.
Id say over 15 C10s done between myself and friends. Pretty common practice.

 

I had fours's on mine with 15" wheels and had scrub problems. U bolts hung low. Go with a taller wheel, but then you add ride height. Best to do a little measuring to make sure first. Also, my blocks were wedge shape to compensate for altered pinion angle.

 

I've never seen rust behind the door on the B pillar before. You've got your hands full. But it can be done. Best wishes!

 

not a chevy but my old 61 gmc truck had a 305 v6 and 4speed i painted the moon on the doors wanted it to look like a old push truck or workshop truck now has a 350 and 3 speed

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The wheels are ET Supers, 15x8.5 with a 3" backspace. The tires are BFG Long Trail Touring in 265/70-15, which is about the biggest 15" tire you can find that's inexpensive and has a non-truck tread and a smooth sidewall. The rear end is a 12-bolt from a '79 Suburban that's been narrowed a total of 3 5/8", with Moser housing ends (large Ford bearings, eliminates the c-clips) and Strange Engineering custom axles.

 

Nailed the stance, very sweet.

 

Yea, the rust there is really odd to me, too. There's some on the passenger side as well, but its not nearly as bad as the drivers side is.

 

It all depends on the wheel diameter and if you are setting the suspension up for a single rear flat tire, or both the rear tires flat.

The following assumes both rear tires are flat, worst case scrub line scenario.

I just went out and measured my '65 C10. It has stock trailing arms, stock lower shock brackets, 15" US Indy slots and no lowering blocks. The stock rear shock bracket is the lowest hanging rear suspension component and it is 1-3/4" above the aluminum wheel.

Therefore if your running 15" wheels, lowering blocks thicker than 1-3/4" will put the lower shock brackets and the wheel into the asphalt at the same time... that is most definately a scrub line issue.

• 15" dia. wheels, 1-3/4" max. lowering block thickness
• 16" dia. wheels, 2-1/4" max. lowering block thickness
• 18" dia. wheels, 3-1/4" max. lowering block thickness
• 20" dia. wheels, 4-1/4" max. lowering block thickness
• 22" dia. wheels, 5-1/4" max. lowering block thickness

If you are setting the suspension up for a single flat tire, then tire diameter and width comes into play.

Some guys don't care about scrub line issues... pretty important stuff, but to each their own.

If you do care, be sure to measure your own vehicle before you add lowering blocks. Just make sure that whatever you end up doing that the wheels are lower than any of the suspension components.

Hope this helps!

Happy Trails,

John

 

Awesome truck, thanks for posting. Love the wheels, and the rubber rake due to the big n littles. Quite the Hot Rod!

Interesting how the red paint goes out past the side trim... neat subtle non-stock effect that says "custom" .

 

I'd check the sealer around the rain gutter. It might be rotting from the inside out.

 

This is an excellent post. Doing the research makes it so. Thanks! ~WX1

 

Yea, that is definately happening. I've just never seen it do that kind of damage there. As bad as the cab is, I need to invest in Bondo stock.