Projects My roadster pickup project.

I like the moon tank out there if it is used for some purpose.
My humble opinion.

 

Nice looking work Don.

 

Hey Don, looks good so far for the shock mounts.
Do you think it might be better to have 2 tabs for the lower mounts that the lower shock eye would slip between ?

I also notice that you are running the front steering stabilizer.

Is that instead of a front panhard bar ? I have a buddy with a 27 who needed a front panhard and a stabilizer too to settle down his suicide style front end.

What do you think ?

Larry.

 

Thanks for the input, guys. Larry, I ran the same single tab on the wishbones on my 23 and put a lot of miles on it, the one tab was more than sufficient on that one, so this one should be good too. All that it is handling is the shock, not any suspension.

I've never used a front panhard bar at all on any car, the traverse spring seems to locate the axle well enough on it's own. The steering stabilizer is just something extra to give a little more firmness to the tie rod. We have one on all three of our cars and they make a huge difference in the road feel. I will never build another car without one.

As for your buddy needing a panhard and a stabilizer to settle down his suicide front end, I'm not sure why that is. Two of our cars have suicide front ends with no panhard and there isn't even a hint of wobble or anything. I'd have to see his setup to be able to venture a guess.

Tonight we got the lower tabs welded on, so essentially all of the suspension is done front and rear. The steering is done also, and that only leaves bodywork, interior, building a bed, wiring, etc. All pretty easy stuff comparitively speaking. I think I am going to clean up the suspension and frame and shoot some epoxy primer on everything because I am tired of cleaning rust off and then have it come back in a day or two.

Here are some pictures from tonight after we welded the lower tabs on.

Don

 

Don I will have to make the rear patch panels for my Murray the same design you made. I will have to make a pair for under both doors and a pair for under the rear 1/4 panels to match the front cowl as you did.

Thanks
Frenchy

 

We Murray guys are pretty much on our own, Frenchy, when it comes to body panels. No one I know is repopping patch panels. Don't hold me to this, but I think Brookville or someone else does carry door skins for them though, and fact, I am pretty sure they do because my Son bought a door skin and cut it in half to make the rear portion of the rpu body.

That might save you some work. When I see him tomorrow I will ask where he got that skin and let you know.

Don

 

Frenchy, you can see the panel I am talking about in this picture. This is a door skin split in half lengthwise so he got two identical pieces out of it to build this back panel.

Don



It shows up a little better in this picture.

 

Thanks Don I appreciate your help I am looking only for the lower piece at the bottom of the rear 1/4/ panel that has the roll bead only 3 inches of it. I have a Vintage Ford junk yard here in Gilbert AZ that has these various panels so maybe I can see what he has and cut off only what I need. Don if you need any perticular body sections let me know this guy has a nice yard of vintage body panelsetc....

Frenchy

 

Shock mounts look good Don, nice and strong, for me it would be no moon tank as I think it visually raises the car but if you do go with it I still think it will look ok, it's a personal thing I reckon.
I like the deitz lamps although I also like the guides so either will look great, it's coming on leaps and bounds, great stuff.....
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Is that a Mustang II??

 

Thanks for that info, Frenchy. If I end up needing any panels I'll give you a yell.

Steve, thanks. Last night I put the tank back under the shell and asked Dan and Don their opinions. They basically said the same as you, it is ok with and ok without, just depends on the final look I want to end up with.

The one advantage I can see is that it would sure help with the cooling issue. It looks like if I run a front radiator it will only be about 21 inches tall because of the channel and the Z up front. I measured my 27 and it is 19 tall, but it is only cooling a sbf, not an Olds. If I run a radiator in the bed it can be as big as I want it to be.

I'll have to see how it progresses and have a talk with PRC radiators to get their opinion if they can make a short radiator to do the job, if I do decide to go with it in front.

Falcongeorge, no, a Fox Mustang.

Don

 

Hey Don, My new Griffin rad is only 21.5 inches tall overall as I have it sitting right over top of my spring crossmember. I'm using a smooth 28 shell so it is a shortened Model A rad.

I also recently built the small pickup bed I'm using. All from 18 gauge, 37" wide and 34" long, narrowed the reproduction A tailgate 4" to better fit my T body.

Larry.

 

That radiator looks good, Larry. That is about what I need sizewise. Maybe it will work for me too.

You did a fantastic job building your bed and it looks strong too. Very nice work.

Don

 

Thanks Don, Griffin builds a nice rad. Not cheap but good quality made in the US. I called them up and talked to a guy named Patrick and he fixed me up.

 

I'm all caught up on your build Don. I just found it last week and have enjoyed reading it much like project $3k. I paid close attention to the tranny tunnel and floor. I am picking up a '32 pickup this weekend that needs a floor and then some real solid cab overall though!

I remember you talking about the rear mounted radiator before maybe for the chopped and channelled '39 Dodge? if it's still on your mind I say do it! Maybe you could get that tank down a little lower though? It's hard to tell from the pictures what kind of clearance you have there for suspension travel..

 

Don you can still put a big radiator in the back and leave the moon tank off. Just put an aluminum panel in the grill shell and have someone pinstripe the hell out of it. that would really personalize it and look better too in my opinion. But what to hell do I know LOL Gregg

 

Hey 35Fordcoupe, I remember you from the past. Thanks, and yes, the problem is I can't really drop the radiator lower than the bottom of the front crossmember.........there is a tie rod and steering stabilizer that will need some suspension travel. But after looking at Larry's radiator I think one that size might actually cool mine.

As you know from my previous build threads, I change my mind on a daily basis on what I am going to do on some part of the car. I'm not the most consistent person on the planet.

Good luck with your project too.

Don

 

You are right, Gregg. There was a cool coupe at Billetproof this year done exactly that way. I have always like them with a solid panel filling in the grille shell. Another way to go for sure.

But if I eliminate the Moon tank, where will I keep my Jagermeister ?

Don

 

Don you could put a panel in the grill shell but with some mesh behind it, put it on some dinky fasteners and you would have the best of both worlds, take it off one day and put it back the next..............

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Yep, that is a thought. When are you and Sue coming over ?

Don

 

Hey don quick question, how long(deep) is your quarter pannel?

 

Which one ? Below the cowl or behind the door ?

Don

 

Sorry behind the door

 

I'll measure it for you tonight. I know the front one is about 13 inches because I just cut a new panel for that one, but not sure about the back one.

Don

 

Don you are right . You cant make up your mind. Earlier you said the tank was for Jack Daniel's . Now it would be for Jaegermiester. What's next a Moonshine Tank LOL Gregg

 

Sorry Don, I meant you could try mounting the moon tank lower not the radiator. I think if it is more below the height of the headlights it would fit in better, but looking closer it would probably require you to make a new bracket to mount it lower and a little more in front of the front crossmember and above the spring if there is even room.

I like the other insert ideas too...you could even drill some ~2" holes in the pinstriped aluminum panel so you still have the empty grill shell look from the front.

 

Actually Gregg, I am more of a beer guy than the hard stuff. Jager makes me get up on tables and start dancing, and that ain't a pretty sight !

35Ford, you are right, the crossmember is right there and in the pictures I posted the tank is flat down against it. So it can't go any lower. If I do decide to run it I will move it forward about 4 inches or so. I simply put in where it would balance for the pictures without falling off unsupported.

Don

 

For sure, I've seen you setting the floor alight !!!

We were hoping to be over this month but work has put that off, I will keep you posted Don on when.

 

Steve. that was all your fault. You can't expect to bring a good looking lady like Sue around and not have all the guys wanting to dance with her ! Good, keep me posted on when you are coming (bring Sue )

Sko ford, I measured the back section for you tonight. It is 10 1/2 inches from door jam to the rear edge of the body. Hope that helps.

Don

 

Hey Don, cool build. I was reading your 3K build and didn't even realize it was you until you guys started building Don jrs t bucket and suddenly I thought "that looks like the blue t in your avatar on this site", what threw me off was I was reading your 23 build and your avatar pic shows your 27. Do you have a build thread on the rebuild of your 27 anywhere?
I was wondering about clearances on your underdash pedal and m/c setup. How much height do you have from the floor to the underside of the cowl?
Thanks, and keep the updates coming. Darren