Cleaning An Aluminum Intake Manifold

I have an old Edelbrock C4B that I am using on my '64 El Camino build. I am trying to go period correct late '60s. Does anyone know a good way short of media blasting to clean it? It hasn't been used in over 25 years and is dirty and darkened with age..
Thanks,

 

I just use plain old gl*** beads...pummells the metal, closes the pores and stays satin silver forever..at least mine did.

 

Try oven cleaner but don't leave it on too long.

 

Gl*** beading is really a good way to clean it, and I have shot clear over it later to seal it and make it easier to keep clean, but that is a personal preference.

Don

 

If you have ever used oven cleaner on an aluminum cooking pot, you will never want to use it on your manifold.

 

That (baking) soda blasting is a do-it-yourself method. Degrease it, carb spay (Berrmans) then soda blast, if gl*** beading is not available to you.

 

If you have a way to cook it in antifreeze at about 220 degrees for 24 hours, it will come out looking like new. Don't reuse whatever you cook it in again except for that purpose. Surely don't cook food in it or let the pets drink out of it.

 

I agree with Don! But remember to cover/plug any openings and you can never flush the thing enough you don't want those bits of anything floating around in your water jackets, pumps, oil, etc.!
However I do think that when you said "Does anyone know a good way short of media blasting to clean it?" that you didn't have access to any form of blasting, including gl***.
I tried for a while to clean mine in several different ways, and finally I just broke down and asked around till I found a buddy with a Harbor Freight sand blaster, and I bought him a bucket of gl*** beads and we knocked it out! I'd say you should be able to find someone willing to gl*** bead it for you for 20-30 dollars!

 

The problem with gl*** beading is that it opens the pores of aluminum, and you end up with a white luster.

Depending on how much you want to spend, Lamar Walden in Doraville, Georgia as a "reskinning" process (and he can repair any damage and re-machine all the surfaces to an NOS finished piece) that burnishes the pores closed and gives it a natural, fresh-cast finish. It also won't absorb grease or gas, so you can simply wipe it clean again.

Here's a 409 intake we restored for a story. I masked it down the middle, and gl***-bead blasted the driver's side, and did his reskinning process on the p***enger side (bottom half, as oriented in picture).

Short of sending it out, your next best bet might be to clean with mag wheel cleaner and then run over it with low-speed br*** wire wheels (mounted in a drill). I did that with a set of finned drums, and it works well.
However, I don't know of any arbor-mounted br*** wire wheels small enough to get into the nooks and crannies of an intake.

-Brad

 

sounds strange but brake fluid and a br*** brush works for me.

 

I cleaned the inside of a rusted oil pan by filling it with Pepsi ( or Coke ) and leaving it overnite. I've also used muriatic acid, outside with rubber gloves, resperator and face shield. Nasty stuff but it really works.

 

I have a tumbler.

 

i gl*** bead them for people quite often. if you spend enough time going over and over it. it will look like it came out of the box new. do not sand blast it. it will look like you painted it gray.

 

i've used white vinegar to clean rusty parts, that may work here also, submerge it for a few days. i'd do a test piece first though.

 

NAPA has an aluminum cleaner that works good. Used it to clean the cases on my Shovelhead and they look like new without the white look.

 

Probably not an issue with an intake but consider carefully whatever process you use.
I had a VW engine case I had bead blasted once to make it "purdy"
and never did get all the **** out of the inside.
Locked up the rebuilt motor within 2 minutes and I
Gave up after replacing new bearings 3 times.

 

thanks....

 

already been said but Lamar walden's shop does bad ***ssss work. The re-skining is so cool.
Even though they are Chevy Gods they are doing a 354 hemi for me right now. I've been able to stop by the shop on several occasions and am always amazed at the quality stuff they do.

 

I have a 1967 Wieand manifold that I cleaned with someones gl*** beader and scrubed very carefully afterwards. I then sprayed it with clear engine enamel looks great.
I am sure you can find someone with a gl*** bead cabinet, ask around most repair shops have them.

 

I've used this stuff myself and it works well. spray it on, let it soak a little, scrub with an old toothbrush, then rise off with water. It's nasty stuff, so wear gloves and eye protection, and use it with plenty of ventilation.

 

Spray it with Simple Green, scrub it, then powerwash it.

 

Used "Oil Eater" from Costco and then scrubbed it with "Bar Keepers Friend" cleanser and a pot scrubber. Looks almost new. Just a few "age" spots on it. I may soda blast it yet, but it looks great. Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions.
Oil Eater is great. mix it 4-1 and degreased the engine compartment and old engine. Spray it on and you can see it working almost immediately and it's enviromentally friendly too.

 

Several years ago I went to a boat supply place and got some stuff they spray on pontoons to clean them and it seemed to work well, but i can't remember what it was called. Worked pretty well on some old aluminum slotted wheels too. Had a good bit left over though.

 

Has anyone else had luck with baking aluminum castings to get the greases and oils out?

I'll probably end up trying this. Should I boil it on the stovetop or bake it in the oven? Any risks of vapors?

It may not go over as well as the use of the dishwasher for similar goals. (head was shaking, then she went back to bed. )

 

This sounds very much like steel shot blasting. I had a Flathead intake done that way in an industrial machine shop and it literally looked like new-didn't have that satin white look as does bead blasting. Then I made the mistake of clearcoating it-it turned gray.

 

Take a stroll down to your local HVAC supply house and pick up a gal of coil cleaner.
I use 1 gt in a 15 gal poly barrel of tap warm water, let soak overnight, rinse with cool water, DONE. not clean enough yet, add another quart and let it go around again.

 

we have this stuff at work thats made for cleaning aluminium wheels, called ally king (green **** that smells funky as) it works awesome. i used it to clean the brake calipers on my mates o/t project and they came out like brand new. be warned tho it's harsh stuff so you need gloves, eye protection and a mask.

 

I buy that by the gallon and use it on all my aluminum. It's a pretty strong acid that will etch the intake clean.

 

Soda or Walnut blasting does a nice job. Chemically, Iv'e boiled manifolds in lemon juice and water with some good results. I've also used Castrol purple cleaner then spray it with satin clear urethane.

 

Best stuff I have found is Duro Aluminum Jelly.
http://www.truevalue.com/product/Duro-Aluminum-Jelly-Aluminum-Cleaner-8-oz/5449.uts