*"Tis the last rose of summer"* The Sept. 2012 Banger Meet

Anyone have any idea what the odds are that a B block is cracked?

My experience is 3 for 4.

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They are old ........ They crack

Hey I'm cracked why shouldn't they

 

Different damper/piston springs, different or incorrect amounts, or weight of oil in the damper, breather hole blocked( if the damper(s) has one) all affect the way they open...
BUT the thing that affects them most is if SUs are set up properly in the first place.

Do you know the correct sequence and how to balance them? Does your manifold have a large balance tube between the intake tracts?
It's all simple but order and method are critical .
If you are not sure I can post or PM the method I have used successfully for 40 years.

 

Thanks 97
I did find one carb was opening just before the other, which I think was the major cause of my issue, I have new jets, float valves and have ordered a new set of jet needles. The only balance I have is the 8mm fuel line connected to my wolf whistle. I can definetly feel an increase in power with the carbs (I think they look cool as well). Please post your set up method as there seems to be some interest in these carbs on bangers.
Regards
Brendan

 

I thought I was the only one to say that???????

 

Tom

I don't do well on a compression test either

See you soon

 

Just don't start leaking like one........

J

 

I have 2 B's here now Both have cracks but only 1 in the deck, valve seat, area, looks like it cracked when seat insert was installed. It is depressed on that side. I might be wrong on the dim. but I have a copy of a Ford print that shows the B has a 1/8" thinner deck and I believe that was why it was prone to cracking in that area.

 

I'm keeping an eye out for a distributor for my A engine.

I've found a rebuilt B for about $160 and have been looking at the new FS Ignition ones which are quite a few dollars more.

Money aside, would I be better off with one over the other?

I'm running 12V-. What would I need to do to the B to make it work with the A motor or is it drop in? (Besides timing obviously)

 

I would go with the FS distributor.

Made a big difference on my B engined A

Herb

 

FWIW, very pleased with my FS ignition. You just don't get to play with the lever on the column anymore.

 

How far are you guys from eachother?

 

I used a b distributor in my Winfield flathead engine. I installed a lighter set of springs and slightly elongated the slots in the weights so they would just clear the body when fully advanced. Have not run it on a distributor machine. You can buy weights and springs from FS that will give 29 degrees advance. I now buy my distributor hardware from Renners. Especially cams. I pulled it out of a 6 volt engine and bolted it in with a 12 volt Mallory coil and went to the drags. I timed it statically at 5 degrees BTDC. Here are my results

 

What lever? The discussion is about a "B"!

 

Thanks Bill,
The 3 that I have just found cracked, only one had a crack in the deck. The other two were cracked in the outer surface of the block along the casting parting lines.


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i also lovew my FS ign !!!!!!! great stuff !

 

I have and have run a Redmund ignition, FS is the same, and I used a FS in a couple of engines. I have also ran Mallory's and still do so. I converted them with Pertronix kits So I was also a "dial 1 800" hot rodder and followed the pack having to have the latest of this or that. I became intrigued with the simplicity of the B distributor and, although I had heard some negative comments, I found the complaints were to do with shoddy replacement parts not with the basic distributor. I comment on this at this time of tight money and try to show another, not so costly, way. I feel the B will work fine up to 4 grand. which should be good enough for a warmed over A.

 

His car is an A, right? Whether FS or B, no lever.
I am a 1 800 hot rod guy but trying to get more educated. So thanks for the alternative.

 

October 2012 Banger meet:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=739959


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I have been trying to load this as an attachment but the site rejects it.

I have converted this to a different type of file now and I think it will work by just copy and paste....
Here goes,

Most S.U. carburettors have three basic adjustments

Mixture adjustment.
This adjustment can take the form of a large hexagon nut on the jet holder itself as in carburettor types H and HS or simple screw adjustment as in carburettor types HD and HS8. Whatever the form of this adjustment, its function is to position the height of the fuel jet relative to the metering needle.

Throttle adjusting screw.
This screw functions exactly the same as the idle speed screw found on conventional carburettors. Acting against a stop, it holds the throttle valve open a set amount at engine idle.
Fast idle screw.
Situated on the linkage which interconnects the throttle valve and the cold start mechanism, this screw adjusts the increased idle speed needed when the engine is cold.











Before attempting to adjust any carburettors, make sure everything else which affect engine tuning. i.e., spark plugs, distributor, ignition timing and tappets should all be adjusted .
Also check carburettor(s).
The needle and seat must be seating properly . If there is any doubt as to the condition of the needle and seat it should be replaced .
The fuel level in the bowl should be correct. Diagram No. 2 shows the correct float setting for carburettor types H and HD and Diagram No.3 shows those for types HS and HS8.
The metering needle must be straight and must be fitted so that the shoulder on its shank is flush with the base of the piston (see Diagram No. 4).




Piston Freedom

Freedom for the piston to slide is essential. After being lifted to the top of its travel and then released it should fall smoothly onto the carburettor bridge with a distinct "click" when the jet is at its highest position.
If it does not comply with this requirement, either the piston is sticking in its bore or the jet requires centering.
A sticking piston can usually be freed by removing the suction chamber and piston and washing them in a suitable
solvent. A small amount of light oil can be placed on the small diameter piston rod but never under any circumstances on the larger diameter grooved piston face. The jet is centred in carburettor types H, HS and HS8 by the following method.

Disconnect the cold start mechanism and swing it to one side. On type HS8 carburettors disconnect the jet adjusting linkage.

Mark the position of the jet. Remove the jet, the jet adjusting nut and the locking spring. (The jet does not have to be removed in HS8 types).

Replace the jet adjusting nut without the spring and install the jet in its correct position according to the mark.

Screw the jet adjusting nut up as far as it can go. (Types H and HS only).

Remove the hydraulic damper from the suction chamber and loosen the jet holding nut until the jet holder is free to move.
Push the piston down with a screwdriver at the same time holding the jet at its highest position.
Tighten the jet holder nut and check that the piston falls onto the bridge with the distinct click.
If not, steps 4 and 5 will have to be repeated.
Replace the jet nut locking spring (types H and HS) and re-assemble the cold start mechanism or jet adjusting linkage as the case may be.
Note: It is important that the jet is marked and kept in the same relative position during the process of centering and final assembly.

Centering in carburettor for type HD :
Disconnect the jet adjusting linkage.,Remove the float chamber, the jet and diaphragm assembly, and the jet housing. (Four screws).,Loosen the jet holder nut so that the jet holder is free to move.Install the jet and diaphragm assembly and push up the jet as far as it will go. Remove the damper from the suction chamber.
Carry out steps 5, 6 and 7 as previously described for type H, HS and HS8 carburettors.
Note: The jet and diaphragm must be kept in the same relative position during centering and final assembly.

ADJUSTMENTS ON VEHICLE
The engine should be run until normal operating temperature is reached before adjusting the carburettor.

Single carburettor (all types)
Disconnect the cold start cable if fitted or make sure that the switch of the auxiliary carburettor is in the "off" position.
Screw the jet adjusting nut or screw so that the jet is flush with the carburettor bridge or, if this cannot be attained to its highest position.
Turn down the jet nut or adjusting screw two full turns (Type HD two and a half turns).
This is the basic mixture setting for the carburettor.

Start the engine and adjust the throttle adjusting screw until the engine is idling at the speed required.
Turn the jet adjusting nut or screw either up or down until the fastest and most even running is obtained. Turning the nut or screw upwards will weaken the mixture and vice versa. (It may be necessary to re-adjust the throttle adjusting screw during this process.)

The mixture strength can readily be checked by lifting the piston approx. 1/32". Most carburettors have a lifting pin, but in some older designs a screw driver may be used.
When the piston is lifted the engine speed should increase very slightly if the mixture is correct. A rich mixture will cause the engine speed to increase considerably while a lean mixture will cause an immediate decrease of speed usually accompanied by rough running.

MULTIPLE CARBURETTORS

Disconnect the cold start cable and linkage or make sure that the switch for the auxiliary carburettor is in the "off" position.
Screw the jet adjusting nuts or screws on all carburettors so that the jet is flush with the carburettor bridge or,if this cannot be attained, to its highest position.
Turn down the jet nuts or screws on all carburettors two full turns (Type HD two and a half turns).
Slacken one of the clamp bolts on the throttle inter-connection shaft. Start the engine and adjust the throttle adjusting screw on each carburettor so the engine is idling speed is set as required.
Check all the throttle valves are open an equal amount. To do this use a mechanics stethoscope or at a pinch a length of tube will do , one end held to the ear, the other placed in turn at the same place in mouth of each carburettor.
Adjust the appropriate throttle valve screw until the amount of hiss is equal on all carburettors.
Turn the jet adjusting nut or screw either up or down on each carburettor until the fastest and most even running of the engine is obtained. Turn the nut or screw upwards to weaken the mixture and vice versa.

Check the mixture strength by lifting the piston approx. 1/32".
If the mixture is correct on that carburettor the engine speed should increase very slightly.
If the engine speeds up considerably, the mixture on that carburettor is too rich. If the speed decreases, the mixture is too lean.
Repeat this operation on all carburettors.

Tighten the clamp on the throttle interconnecting shaft.

After the carburettors have been adjusted, connect the cold start cable so that it has approx. 1/16" free travel before it starts to move the jet lever. Pull out the control knob until the free travel is taken up and any further movement would move the jet lever. In this position adjust the fast idle screw to give an engine speed of approx. 1,000 R.P.M. Push the control cable right in and ensure that there is clearance between the fast idle screw and the throttle stop. If no clearance, the free travel of the cable must be reset.

The final step is to fill the hydraulic damper to the correct level with S.A.E. 20 Oil.( ATF works OK )
If the damper cap has a vent hole drilled through it, the correct oil level is ½" above the hollow piston rod.
If there is no vent hole in the damper cap the correct level is ½" below the piston rod.