So I put new pads on the front and now they squeak. Not just a little either. At very low speed, less than 5 mph, they drag enough to make noise. I have the correct backing pads installed as well. I have never used the disc brakes quiet stuff. Does that chemical mechanic work? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
That backing that dampens out the harmonics does help, but something else you might try is to take each pad and slightly bevel the edges so they are not scraping the rotor, but gliding over it. My Son has noisy Wilwoods on his T bucket and we have tried everything, but someone suggested beveling the pads and that makes some sense. We are going to do it before he takes the car to Turkey Run because the squeal makes it sound like a junker. Don
I'm in the same boat. I have a lot of coin into my car and it sounds like a jalopy when I pull in... I like this idea Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Did you cut the rotors? The squeal could be the new pads glazing up. I've used disc brake quiet for decades and it works. Maybe not in your case though if the rotors weren't resurfaced. Bob
I agree with Don's Hot Rods. I always bevel the leading edge of all my disc pads and drum shoes to a 45 deg angle. That usually solves the squeaking. Anti- squeal compound on the back of the pads also.
The anti squeak spray on the back of the pads works pretty well. Also put some anti seize on the edge of the pad (not the friction material) where they contact the caliper bracket If the rotors are used, chamfering the leading edge of the pad and scuffing the rotor surface with some sandpaper will make a huge reduction in noise.
Not using the silicone disc brake quiet is an invitation for noise from hell. Use it liberally where the pad meets the caliper and piston. Noise will be gone.
I never use it and this is the first time I have had squealing... Lesson learned. Lube her up or it's non stop squealing... Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Some pads come with the disc quiet already enclosed. The noise is a high pitched chatter. The disc quiet does work.
One other thing you might try that worked for me on my daily driver. You need an open stretch of road to get up some speed (over 55) and hit the brakes hard. Do this about 3 times in a row quickly to get the rotors and pads hot. I'm not sure how this works, but it did for me. J.
I apply a smidge of anti-seize paste on the caliper cup surface that contacts the pad backer, as well as the areas on the caliper where the pad moves through (and the bolts). Never had a squeal......until I ran out of pad once. LOL.
What they said. Good cut on rotors, & good pads. Not surea about the brake quiet stuff, I've always used anti-sieze on pad shims and caliper pins.
Drum brakes? It may be the brake pad compound that makes rthem squeel, sintered brakes for instance are louder than asbestous pads. The wifes Ot silverado had ceramic pads, the dealer put them on while they were prepping the truck for us. they are a quiet as a church mouse. Another thing that is an option but is probably going to fall onto the same catagory as drums is true twin piston brakes where both pads retract when not in use. Price is an issue with the last suggestion and will not cure your current problem. But it is an option.
Had the same problem with my Wilwood disc brake set up on my 35 Chevy. Wilwood told me the pads they sent me were too aggressive for street use. They were more then happy to sell me a less aggressive pads which cured the problem.
I can't believe no one else mentioned this. You have to bed in your brake pads and preferably new or freshly resurfaced rotors. Here's some instructions: http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm And in detail: http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric White Paper C2-Bed-In Theory.pdf
It is called burnishing. Basically you are transferring material between the pads and rotors or drums so that the brake pads make good even contact. All manufacturers recommend a burnishing procedure with new brakes. This is normally the cheapest and easiest way to eliminate sqeaky brakes. Good Luck.
The disc brake quite works. Use it. Need info on why it works ? Google it. New pads generally come with the edges beveled. That turned rotor is actually a spiral, a tight spiral but a spiral none the less. No two guys do it the same so remember that. This creates an additional force on the pads drawing them into the center or forcing them towards the outside of the caliper. That can squeek like hell. That's why you need to burnish the fresh pads and rotors. New rotors are generally Blanchard ground and have no directional pattern consistency like a spiral. Yet they can shove the pads around in 47 directions in one revolution. This also squeaks like hell. Again you need to burnish them. Your calipers need to slide freely on the pins, the pistons need to retract, and the pads need to be retained to the calipers. Another reason for disc quite stuff
What pads are you using? I had the same problem with semi-metallic pad and switched to ceramic pads on one vehicle and semi-ceramic pads on another. Squealing went away immediately on both. Oh yeah and I do use the anti-squeal on the backs of the pads.
This is all great advice, but some caliper designs are worse than others. I've found the Corvette 63-82 disc brakes on my coupe to be horribly squeaky. I've tried everything. The corvette forums all say that these brakes are infamous for the squeak.
you didn't say, but, i'll bet you bought the semi-metalics. get the same number in ceramic. yes, they cost more. but, you won't have any noises or brake dust on your wheels.
strongly disagree here. you have to turn C-3 brake rotors differently than most. the rotor has to be set up on the arbor exactly 90 degrees to the pad surface. corvette calipers don't move. it has 4 pistons that move the brake pads towards the rotors on both sides. if the rotors are not true it will be moving side to side hitting both pads. that will wear the pads unevenly. if it's bad enough it will cause the piston to vibrate enough that they will suck air causing you to lose the brake pedal like the brakes need to be bled.
I'm guessing you put the pads in without turning or cleaning the rotors? It sounds like they are glazed over with the new pad material over the old. The easy fix is a set of EBC pads with a break-in coating. The break-in coating is just an abrasive that cleans up the rotors. If you want to try and keep the new pads, power scuff the rotors and pads with at least 120 grit, Wilwood tech line says 80 grit. You have to remove some material off the rotors so a power tool is required. I like to use a 2 or 3 inch roloc disc. Scuff the rotors and pads until at least 50% of the old surface is gone. You could also have the rotors cleaned up on a brake lathe and just scuff the pads with 120 grit. Then bed the rotors and pads. There are lots of methods, I had good luck with Wilwoods procedure posted on their website. I hate putting the gooey stuff on the back of the pads, but unless there is are good mechanical anti squeal springs on the calipers the gooey stuff may be necessary. If there are already anti squeal springs, get new ones in a brake hardware kit. I also always buy beveled pads as the others said. They really help, I don't know why though.
going to NAPA right now for ceramic pads and I will do the whole procedure tomorrow and will be scuffing the rotors and applying the silicone lubricant. wish me luck...
Luck, if it depended on luck it could e raining soup and I could go outside and get hit right in the mouth with a hay bale. I will wish you skill how's that.
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