##Don't be frieghtened .. it's only the Oct. 2012 Banger Meet##

Time it like an A.

Then rotate the distributor housing to advance it @ 8 degrees. Drive it. If it doesn't ping your good. If it does ping, back down the timing until it doesn't.

Or

Time it like an A. A timing is 0 advance. Set up a timing mark on the crank pulley, and a fixed pointer off of the timing cover. Using a timing light that has an advance dial on it, Set it at 8 deg advance and rotate the distributor until the pulley mark lines up with the pointer. Lock down the distributor.


Did I over simplify that?

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If it has a stock oiling system, you will need a pressure gauge that reads 0-10 psi in 1 lbs increments. Stock pressure is less then 5 psi. More like 2 psi when warm.


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Good stuff. I was under the impression the "B" ran 19* advanced...should I start with 8 and work my way up?

 

The initial setting on the B timing cover is 8 deg. At the cam, so it would be 16 at the crank.

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Gotcha...makes sense now. Thanks again for the help!

 

Thx hoping it will drive in a few months

 

Do any of you know anything about an Oil-Vac fuel system? It is a vacuum fuel system run off of the oil pump instead of drawing manifold vacuum. It was used on Plymouth engined Dodge Brothers trucks in '30. I would understand why it didn't last as most cars were getting fuel pumps about then. I've found very little on the internet. Any info would help.

 

Doug,

Give my dad a call- he may have some info on the oil-vac system.

 

10-4. I need to call him anyway to pick up the youknowwhat.

 

Don't forget the small w***it, please

Last time was a mess

 

B cover sets timing at 9.5 degrees BTDC 19 total per Model A B garage, still nit picking.

 

Thanks for the help guys! Here's an article on Ford Garage that shows how to get 'close' with a "B" distributor and an "A" cover: http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ignitorB.htm

 

I got to play in the Sand with the banger to today.
The Race Of Gentlemen In NJ

 

Looks like a blast!!!!

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Has anybody bought a Roof head from Charlie Yapp? I am thinking about buying one and have not heard much about them.

 

A friend bought a 29 Plymouth with this system. The car is a two door sedan. The system was not a Stewart Warner but a Kingston. A Stewart Warner canister was the same size and after buying several and using parts from about five different ones we got an operating system. This system was used by a bunch of different car manufacturers. Packard used them and someone said Chevy used them for a while. The vacuum is the same at wide open throttle by using the oil pump to create the vacuum. When you are low on oil the system will not work.

I asked questions about this system and got several replies on this forum and the Model "A" Forum on the Ford Barn which included drawings.

Search for threads posted by me and you will have a lot of information. The Kingston was a lot simpler than the Stewart Warner and would be my choice but it was too far gone to restore.

The 29 Plymouth engine is only 174 cubic inches and the car is heavy. A stock Model "A" is a real hot rod compared to the 29 Plymouth.

 

Thanks Sturgis, I will take a look. The owner found a diagram in a ****'s manual of how the system worked. Kingston made carbs too, and was owned by Seiberling of Kokomo, Ind. who eventually made tires. I think there was a family connection to Firestone, if I remember right.

 

I saw your car out there. It looked like a blast. Wish mine was close to running.


Question:

How do I tell what gears I have in my rear? I'm ***uming they're 3.78 but would like to know.

I'm debating whether or not to do an OD on my car. Money aside, I'd love to. I just want to add everything up before I decide I can't afford it.

I'm figuring with 31" tires and no OD, I'll be rev'n 2400 @ 60
2300 if I had the 3.54.
I still need to buy the adapter for the 39 trans I planned to use.

With OD I'd be getting 2000 @ 65. Would require quite a financial commitment but, it just might be worth it.

For what it's worth, it'll be(once put back together) a 30 roadster w/ no fenders, single 97, Snyder head, and B distributor.

Got any advice?

 

Are you planning on a brake up grade too? Stock A brakes will be woefully inadequacy for this kind of up grade.

That needs to be a factor in your budget too.


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Yes, I have rebuilt 40's ford brakes.

 

I'm running B brakes and Ted's floaters on the Tourer - not too bad for mechanical brakes and comparable with the '39 hydraulics on my modified.

Rather than an overdrive I thought I'd try a 3.27 rear end coupled with the close ratio gears.

Prescott hill climb speed trap:
44mph, 1.55:1 second gear, 3.27 final drive, 29.8" tyres - 2514 rpm.

Dual carriage way on the road home:
Steady 68mph (sat nav), 1:1 top gear - 2507 rpm. Easy enough considering the size of the windscreen I'm pushing through the air.
Rolling along easily most of the time around 55-60mph and it turns out the ol' banger is turning between 2000-2200 rpm which is reasonable for a babbit bottom end.

 

Engine pics



Aaaand its in the frame

 

Monkeybiker,

What do you think about hills with your 3.27 gear set?

This would be for a a fenderless roadster so, a bit lighter than yours I imagine.

I have a 5.5 head on an otherwise stock (but rebuilt a few years ago) motor.

I guess a cam change would be in order to make those gears work?

Rear gears-$750
Clings adapter for the 39 Trans $475
Still pricey regardless. Decisions Decisions ...

I forgot..
I have stock gears in the trans.

 

'32 and later mech. brakes are much better then the stock A brakes. Larger brakes and cast iron drums make a hell of a difference. Converting an A to later mechanicals can also be more expensive then Juice brakes.

I'm running a 5 speed in mine. OD is about .66. I like running a 3.48 rear gear (quick change). I run 75 - 80 mph on the freeways @ 1900 - 2100 rpm. Stock B bottom end. But I wouldn't run this set up without High comp head, cam upgrade and dual carbs.

.

 

Seems to cope quite well...



Away from the track I never found a hill on the open road I needed to change down for - but a hill in town is an easy change down as second is very useable.

 

Is your engine built up? Seems like you'd loose alot on the start with the 3.27s.

It's coming to the time where I need to make a decision to keep the project flowing. I'm just trying to make sure I'm happy once I do. Easier said than done with so many options out there.

 

I thought I would, especially with the close ratio gears but I figured getting wheelspin with a full bodied tourer (admittedly skinny 500 x 19" Firestones) ain't bad. I have no video off the line but hey, she seemed happy considering it's uphill!

 

Built? Ported diamond B block, cam, and a Thomas head. Nothing too special.

 

Alright barons of bangerdom, I'm curious to know what you'd recommend for a coil...my build (27 T modified) consists of:

30 "A" Banger - .060" over
Winfield 'Yellow' head - milled .020" (compression in the neighborhood of 6.1:1)
Winfield 3/4 cam
Winfield SR-B carb & intake
Model B distributor with conventional cap & rotor
Stock exhaust manifold
Stock trans w/lightened flywheel & V8 clutch

Should I be looking into a V8 coil? What do you think of the Chevy 6 coils? Any good 1930's-early 40's candidates (trying to keep the build all pre-wwii)

Thanks!

Gary