Being an 8BA you should be able to remove the valve collets and pull the valves out, no need to get mediaevil on their ***es. It's the 59A and earlier mushroom style valves that are a pain to remove. Remove collets, pull valve up, knock guide down a little, remove horseshoe clip, pull spring and guide out as a unit. 10 times easier than the early style. Don't waste time trying to pull the guides down with the ford tool, it won't work. Mart.
Hey Mart I saw you posted this on Ford Barn. Did you make the video? If the pistons are s****, just get underneath the head of the piston with a long punch and smack the head right off the piston. Once the head has gone, the piston loses all its strength and will move quite easily with a bit more lube and knockery. I have a badly siezed lump here and may video the technique to show how easy it is. Mart. \\ <!-- / message -->
No, I got the crank out, and I did knock the heads off the pistons. It was a lot harder than the English motor I had done previously. Even with the heads off the pistons, the remains were stuck tight. I then damaged the bore while trying to drift the piston down the bore. I did this on the first piston so did not try the others. The block had pan rail cracks and now a hole in one of the bores so that puts it beyond repair for me. Mart.
Not to "**** in your cornflakes"; but, if that was my block ... I would donate it to a marina as a boat anchor. The corrosion around those valves - even if you plan a "port and relieve" - would be a m***ive undertaking to correct. (and NO guarantee that you could get an acceptable job) Keep up with the dis-***embly; there appears to be some usable pieces. (rods and maybe crank)
This seems like a good place to ask. Does anyone have a spare bolt for the center main cap from an 8ba? Incase you decide this IS a boat anchor, keep me in mind
The rust around the valves is a non issue for a regular motor … iv seen many blocks like that put back running w no issues.....it will get new seats anyway and the pits hurt nothing. If you were going to do a land speed motor or something then yes start w the best block you could find.
Yep just going to be a pretty stock motor. Hope to reuse the rods and crank and add some new finned heads and such.
Duh! ****s big to get old....often times you say things without much thought! Thanks guys for not burning me, I'll try to make it right!
Also, though the thing is a late motor there is still quite a good chace it has replaceable hard seats...meaning that fixing the most critical area there can be cheap.
So my next step would be to just keep on trying to get all of the pistons out and then the crank? Then the cam and lifters.
Remove cam gear to free crank rotation. Remove main caps. Keep at crank till you can get all the rods off of it and get it outtathere giving better access to remaining pistons. Upstairs remove keepers and pry/yank valves out. Some valves will come out, then work at lifters and guides, guides now freed so you can pound them downward with a socket and extension.
Eventually...you may get down to a couple of rogue valves and be able to rotate and wiggle cam out...at that point, you center-drill the evil valves so head just falls off stem and drive everything straight down!
I have some of the pistons that came out of my V8 but I will not be using them if you need these extra pistons I will give them to you if you can use them. I will be checking their sizes and let you know. I am going with a new set from Eggee machine. What else do you need for this motor that I maybe able to donate. Frenchy
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