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Turbo 350 help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by babblewon, Nov 8, 2012.

  1. babblewon
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 202

    babblewon
    Member
    from cali

    So I've had an annoying leak coming from what looked to be the front pump o-ring on my turbo 350. I pulled the torque convertor and then pulled the bolts from the face of the pump. I pulled the pump out about an 1" to access the rubber o-ring, replaced the o-ring and pushed the pump back into place and put the bolts back. Slammed the torque convertor on, clicked into place and re-filled any lost fluid.

    I started the car up and it does not go into gear. I put the flywheel bolts back and also checked to make sure the torque convertor was set correctly. Checked fluids again.

    What did I f-up this time? I haven't changed that o-ring before so maybe I missed a step?

    Any info on what I did wrong would be appreciated.
    Thanks
     
  2. willys1
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 1,021

    willys1
    Member
    from South Ga

    Check your fluid level with engine off and mark the stick. then check fluid level as you normally would running in park. The fluid level should be much lower running and that lets you know the pump is pumping. Also there are sealing rings on the pump stator where it goes into the drum. Some are teflon, some are iron rings. You may have broken or torn one on the re install of the pump,,,
     
  3. mike hohnstein
    Joined: Dec 4, 2011
    Posts: 262

    mike hohnstein
    BANNED
    from wisconsin

    U probably ****ed up the forward drum seals when you pushed the pump into the case.
     
  4. babblewon
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 202

    babblewon
    Member
    from cali

    Fluid definitly goes lower on the dipstick when running. It's exactly on the mark when running and about 3/4" higher when off.
    It did make a couple sqeeling noises when running.
    Is it possible I messed up installing the torque convertor although it still bolted up?
     
  5. willys1
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 1,021

    willys1
    Member
    from South Ga

    more than likely its the sealing rings. ****s, but, remove the pump and check the seals before you chew it up
     
  6. babblewon
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 202

    babblewon
    Member
    from cali

    Damn! I always seem to learn by f-ing it up first then fixing it second.
     
  7. willys1
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 1,021

    willys1
    Member
    from South Ga

    And Yes. You can bolt it together with the converter not in the pump gear. Then then converter will turn the pump for a short time while forcing the pump gear into the pump housing. (Noise?). with the ****** bolts tight on the engine, the converter should turn easliy by hand, with no bind:cool:
     
  8. willys1
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 1,021

    willys1
    Member
    from South Ga

    No worries :( Thats the way most of us learn it. school of hard knocks:)
    If thas is the case, I bet you wont do it again, Right? lol
     
  9. babblewon
    Joined: Aug 19, 2007
    Posts: 202

    babblewon
    Member
    from cali

    I'm suprised if I did mess up the seals because I only pulled the pump out maybe an 1". Just enough to pull the rubber o-ring off. Then pushed it straight in.
    With the ****** tight to the motor, the convertor spins VERY freely, like I can grab it with one hand and when I give it a spin, it will coast like a wheel on a hub. It also has about 3/8" front to back slop between the ****** and ring gear.
     
  10. willys1
    Joined: Oct 31, 2012
    Posts: 1,021

    willys1
    Member
    from South Ga

    Pulling the pump out about an inch is far enough to expose the sealing rings:(
     

  11. 3/8ths is way too much... I doubt that the hub slots are engaging the pump gear at that amount of pull up.

    Who built the converter?
     

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