Hot Rods Curbspeed Coupe. "Holy Hell" 10/4/2020

Finished up the shock mounts today. Amazing how much time is consumed when doing such a little job. I still need to figure out the nutserts in the frame for mounting them. Here's a few pics of today's work for the folks that are paying attention to this mess. Hope I can help someone out with an idea or two.

 

Nice job they look right at home

 

Thanks donut 29, Do you have a build thread on your 5W? I would like to see it.

 

Good to see you back at it Dale.

 

good stuff !

 

Don't trust nutserts for shocks. How about welding coupling nuts inside the frame. They're about 1-1/2" long and won't go anywhere.

 

Yeah here's a link

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=748404

 

looking good!

 

I'll take your advice old friend and use those on a couple of the holes. The two back ones on each plate are easy to get at from the spring area and I can use regular high grade bolts.

 

I just tapped the holes in my chassis for my shock mounts


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ouch knee surgery is nothing to joke or lie about.

 

I definitely wouldn't count on tapping a frame to survive when supporting a shock mount. Nor would I use a nutsert as it simply won't last. While a method I use may be considered overkill, I doubt I will ever have to repair it later on. I take solid bar stock 1" or 1.25" for a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt...cut it one frame side thickness shy of the frame width, then bore & tap the bar stock deep enough to accept the bolt.



Next, I drill a 1/2" pilot hole through the frame. Next, the front face hole is enlarged 1/8" larger than the bar stock. Then I attach the stock to the shock mount (or whatever I'm attaching to the frame...running board bracket, crossmember, radiator support, brake pedal mount, etc...these pictures are from a bumper bracket install) and then slide into the enlarged holes.



Align the part with the bar stock with the outside edge even with the frame side...and then secure with a C-clamp.



Next, weld up the backside hole which will be flush with the stock because the bar is one frame side width short.



Finally, remove the attached component and weld up the front side being careful to not damage the threads (I simply spray a sacrificial bolt with anti-spatter and thread into the bar stock to protect the threads). Finally I grind down the welds and call it done.

I like using this method for several reasons. First it's very strong (since welded on the front and backside) and like I mentioned earlier...it won't require repair in the future. Second, no unnecessary holes or access is required from the backside. And finally, disassembly or re-assembly can be done by one person since you don't need a socket or wrench on the backside. This is worth the effort later on when your working alone without somebody else to hold a wrench on the backside.



Hope this helps.


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Thanks Troy, I like that idea alot. Nice job. I will not be using a nutsert. I think I will use something more substansial to mount them. I'll post my solution soon. My buddy Squeak Bell gave me a great idea and I think I'll incorporate it into my plan. He's a crafty one that crazy Kiwi. It will be plenty strong and you won't see a single fastener. Stay tuned.

 

The area around the crossmember on a 34 is several skins thick and can take a thread - these mounts have been on my sedan for 3 years with no problems , can't wait to see your mounts


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Curbspeed, let us know what Sqeak comes up with. I'm always open to a new idea. Another way I have done this is to machine a solid block, tap the mounting holes, slide it into the frame from behind and then weld it to the face via access holes. It won't go anywhere then either. Of course this adds weight to the car if your on a diet for racing.


Besty34, not to argue but only explain...I realize the 34 frames have an inner and outer skin because I have two of them also (one under my sedan and the other leaning up against my shop wall) but they are separate and thus tapping two separate metals for a single hole will almost always result in cross-threading the bolt as they flex. I'm glad it's worked for you though. I would have never attempted that.


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Man... Those shock mounts look killer! Nice work, buddy!

 

Guest I must have been lucky eh ?


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I think a new handle would be Craftyspeed ! What ya think Dale ?

 

Thank you Greg M ( Fleetside66) for the great SW boat style ignition switch I was looking for. Looks perfect in my accessory panel I made. Still need to get it chromed. I found a NOS keyed tumbler for it at an old school locksmith shop here in town. My lucky day.

 

just WOW.

 

Took a couple of pics of the F-1 steering drop I altered to work in the coupe. Looks a little different than some. I am happy with it. It is just a standard F-1 sheetmetal column drop that has been lengthened some. Original Bell wheel tops it off over a handmade steering shaft tube that I belled up to fit. Still needs a little work. All will get a lavish does of chromium.

 

Nice work - enjoying following this build a lot.

Mart.

 

Thanks Mart. I am enjoying your 33 5W build as well. I would have never been able to leave it alone and just get it running though. I would have torn that sucker all the way down to the ground and tackled that rust. Good on ya for not taking years and years like me.

 

Wow..you did that fast! It found the right home. Success comes from the "wanted" section. The irony of the ignition switch is that it came out of an old boat gauge panel with an identical S/W Wings amps gauge next to it. I bought the panel for the wings O.P. & water temp gauge. I didn't need the switch because I have a keyless start to my hot rod. I already sold the Ensign panel & the 3,500 rpm S/W tach to other HAMBers. What that means is that four different HAMBers are sharing stuff from the same panel. We're all happy. And, if the S/W wings amps gauge ever sells, it'll make five. It's a beautiful thing.

 

That steering wheel is nice Dale !

 

I like that key chain.. I just love watching this car come together!!

 

Thanks again. I would buy from you anytime. Let me know in a pm how much you want for that amp gauge. I might have a use for it. I was lucky to find a replacemet tumbler. I didn't have to deal with fixing that bad terminal and I got a set of 4 keys to boot. All for 18 bucks. Deal.

 

Before long I will have to start working on finishing my firewall and transmission tunnel. I have been trying to come up with a place to put my tach. Now this old SW tach does not match my other winged SW gauges and I wanted to mount it a little ways away from the matching gauges on the dash. I decided against figuring out a way to mount this older style tach on the column. Didn't want to clutter up that area. I decided to figure out a way to mount it down on the trans cover. Now I have not made the trans cover but this piece I am making will dictate how I build it now so I have some sort of a plan in mind. This might end up looking like ass but I hope not. I like repurposing early parts.
I was digging through my cast off box of stuff you just save. You know, the stuff you figure you might just use one day, and then finally the lightbulb just clicked.
Well I had this piece from an old torque tube. I think it's early Ford. I've had it so long I have forgotten. It looked like it had a hole about the same size as my tach. Well with a little bit of modification I was able to make it fit. I cleaned off an extra bolt boss and shaped it to match the other holes. Threw it in the sandblasting cabinet and metal finished it a little bit.
I am planning on setting this at an angle behind the shifter mounted to the tranny cover. The flange of this will be under the carpet. This will get chromed.
Sometimes you get sidetracked on stuff you have been thinking about. This is one of those times. Now I have some direction for the moment on how I want it to look. Here are the pics. Now I will go back to whatever I was doing before this.

 

That looks fantastic well done