Brakes on my Galaxie are bad so in order to be able to use it everyday, I need to solve that. Decided to go with a tandem master instead of that leaky single. What I need to know is..... What do I need other then the master? Valve? Extra lines? And how? Its a drum/drum, 289. Pictures would be good too. Thanks in advance.
No answers yet...I'll give it a shot. Maybe I can mess ya up real good...lol. Let's see. No residual check valve...those are used on discs only. May need a proportioning valve, unless the master is from a similar-sized car with similar weight bias front to rear. Lines are pretty basic. With the old "fruit jar" single reservoir master, one line comes out and splits to feed both front and rear, then both front and rear split again for left and right. But with the dual reservoir, there are two lines from the master...one for the front split for left and right, and one for the back split for left and right. I believe the larger reservoir is for the front and the smaller one for the back. I would be tempted to put it together without the proportioning valve. Then after it's on the road, I'd take note if the rear tires want to lock up under hard braking. If they do, you'll want to add an adjustable proportioning valve to the line for the rear brakes...near the master. Then adjust to bring down the pressure to the rear brakes until they don't lock up anymore. Only other things I can think of is mounting and actuation rod length. I'm not 100% on various rod lengths and applications, so wait for answers from somebody who is. Helps if we know the original application for the master you bought. Mounts to the original holes ok? Good. Piston looks to be the same distance from mounting surface?...then the original rod should work...I think. Anything else, guys?
Btw...take time and care to run the lines neatly and securely and away from moving or hot parts. No loose, bouncy, vibrating lines that can eventually crack from stress. And you're gonna look at the brake cylinders, rubber lines, and shoes and hardware too, right? And while you're at it, maybe clean and re-pack the wheel bearings and replace the grease seals. Jeez, I'm a slave driver. Good luck.
I've done similar swaps, great if you have a donor car to pick parts from. I would use a '67 Galaxie or so master. You'll need a junction/splitter block, again, great if you can grab it all off one car. They are available though. From there you'll have to make up a couple of lines and deal with the brake light switch. The '64 has the switch on the master itself. Maybe someone knows of a dual master with one. You can adapt one from a later Ford to work off the brake pedal. Bob
This is similar to what you need to get. There was a fairly recent thread with a site that had them on here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-66-67-...t=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Buy the '67 Galaxie brake light switch, you'll need to make up a bracket to mount on the pedal arm to act as a stop for the plunger. I've done them on old Chevys, but never a Ford. Bob
Going to be doing this to my '61 Falcon. '67 master good start, hope you bought new or reman. Front: you will need new lines to each drum. This means a 'Y' splitter. You may be able to find a splitter that allows for the switch (4 ports). Rear: you will need a new line to connect to the existing one. Now for the easier part: you don't need anything else, as you are simply splitting the front and rear, not changing anything, pressure-wise. In essence, the systems works just as before, yet you have the safety factor of a dual system. Now, I get a bit preachy. You DO have a working e-brake, right?? And you have rebuilt all the wheel components?? Turned all drums and replaced those out of tolerance?? My Falcon is a daily, and stops extremely well. I regularly drive in rush-hour traffic, and have had no close calls related to poor braking. I HAVE had close calls that good brakes saved me from. And I do have a working e-brake. Cosmo
My Son gave me the one on my Falcon not one I would have bought for myself but the more I look at it the more I kind of like it.Now if I can figure out how to adjust the dang thing
Ford kept the same size mounting flange in all their models for decades, so there's a lot of choices for a new master cylinder. Anything for manual drum/drum brakes will work. You need residual valves if the new master doesn't have them (some do, some don't). You can check by inserting a paper clip into the port. If the paper clip goes all the way in, then you have no residual valve and need to buy them. Residual valves maintain a bit of pressure on the wheel cylinders to counteract the springs on the brake shoes. Cost about $15-$19 each and you need two. You need a proportioning valve to split the pressure 70 front/30 rear. Either a Ford unit or an aftermarket valve. Cost about $70-$90. You can use your old pressure switch for your brakes, but you'll have to put a "T" into a front brake line.
One thing to keep in mind...it would be a good idea to make the push rod adjustable. The factory 64 Ford push rod is non adjustable. The push rod may or may not keep the fluid from returning to the M/cyl. causing the brakes to lock up. Make sure that the push rod is held away from the piston a very small distance to prevent this. My buddy just replaced the stock 64 M/cyl and the brakes locked up until the push rod was properly seated in the piston...no factory adjustment.
I'm using a dual master cyl with drums all the way around on my 64. I think the master cyl is for a 67 galaxie? I think I had to make a longer pushrod for it possibly if I remember right.
I ditched the old single m/c on my '58 t-bird a couple winters ago. It still has drums on all four wheels, and no power-***ist for those brakes either. I bought a dual m/c for a drum/drum manual-brake '67 Mustang from NAPA. No prop valve or residual valves were needed.
You've been given a lot of advice, but some of it totally wrong. 1-All drum brakes up until the early-mid /70s require residual pressure valves. The '67 drum/drum master you have should have them internally behind the tube seats, but check to be sure with whatever master you use, and if necessary, add external aftermarket 10 lb valves to each axle. 2-You don't need a proportioning valve with your stock drum brakes, as PVs limit rear pressure in disc/drum and disc/disc systems. The brakes will stop/operate the same with the new dual/tandem master as with the stock fruit jar, like cosmo already stated. Master cylinder choice is important. Normally, power masters have a deeper push rod bore, and are better suited for custom manual systems because non-stock/custom push rods will not fall out of the bore. Manual masters usually have the push rod retained in a shallow bore. Some new/rebuilt Ford applications (and maybe others) come with a deep (vac-***isted) bore, but also include a push rod and retainer, so they can be used on both power and manual systems. Bottom line, make sure the push rod is retained in a shallow bore master. FYI, your stock '64 manual master bore is 1". ('64 w/power is 7/8") According to my Bendix info, '69-'71 big Ford power masters are also 1", and should have deep push rod bores for custom rods. With the pedal fully returned, there should be 1/16" minimum push rod clearance to the primary piston.
oh yeah... forgot to mention that you need to know what the bore diameter of your current m/c is, then be sure your replacement m/c has the same bore diameter. If you go to a larger bore, your brake pedal may require hulk hogan to operate.
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