Beau, There were no prints of that, it was a painting in a show in Australia, I might make prints in the future though, glad you liked it, thanks! Keith
My mistake Keith! I love it! I found this little gem of a photo somewhere on here today. I decided to rework a photo I had so it looked kind of close. Happy Turkey Day!
I had just a couple hours after work to play at the shop. I made a spreader bar using some tubing I had laying around. I also got a start on the transmission adapter that will allow me to bolt the T5 to the stock Ford F1 mount.
I caught a nasty cold two nights ago. I was at the shop pretty late making a pattern and cutting out the rear wishbone mount. I still have quite a bit of trimming and shaping to do. For some reason the crossmember look off center. I'm not sure if the mount is not symmetrical or what. The trans is centered in relation to the frame though. When I made the pattern for the F1 member I made sure it was all centered. I dunno. I'll have to double check when I get up there again. Here's the beginning of my wishbone mount. I had a couple hours to start the rear frame sections, too.
i can't tell if it's camera angle or what, but the driver's side of the f1 member does look a little longer along the top. looks good though. once you get that stuff sorted, it's certainly burly enough to hold up.
Correct. It'll be a wishbone like the front. The idea came from first, Striper's ( http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282490 ) beautiful modified, and second the Tech Week from SamIyam ( http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282490 ) I only had time to bore the hole in the mount before I got sick and went home. It needs a half inch taken off so it's flush with the side plates and will clear the yoke (cutting about a 1/4" into the hole). But I figured boring the hole would have been easier if I didn't do it on the edge of the plate. I have collected a couple different yokes to try out. I gotta get the frame finished up first though. Trying to kick this damn cold!
I finished welding, trimming and shaping the rear wishbone mount. I split my first wishbone. In this case, I needed the yoke. I didn't know if but they actually had some sort of weird slug in there stock. I ground the edge down until I could see the seam, then welded a rod to the slug. It heated it up enough to pop the old slug out, and leave me with just enough room to use one again. I spent a bit of time with a disk sander and ground all the factory marks off and smoothed it all out. It's new home. I centered everything up (it's all centered, the camera does weird things) and tacked the wishbone mount in. What a waste of time...I have more hours into this stupid thing than the whole damn car. STILL NOT DONE...but it's getting there. Or it'll get scraped for a tube and plate... How about a quick test fit.
That looks awesome! I like the flat crossmember more than if it just had a plate sticking out of a tube.
It's getting there. I think when it's finished it will look a bit better. I want it to have a factory look. We'll see. It's annoying when a project that is expected to be easy, takes all day (and then some in this case). It'll get there.
very kool build, that rear frame is very similar to how mine was done in 1962, love it! thanks for posting. george
Thanks George! My '32 insert showed up today. I was a bit worried about having this shipped since it's a bit fragile. I purchased it on here. When it arrived today, I had to start laughing! It showed up safe and sound, and now I have a bunch of screws I can reuse! Thanks again Oldrodkid ! I appreciate you taking the time to package it well!
A fella messaged me about the rear bones. Here's a funny story. The camera I use has a busted screen. So I basically figured out how to shut the flash off (never use flash) and point and shoot! I never know what they look like until I get home. It's like shooting film! The photos I posted, ironically make the rear bones appear like they are set at the correct angle and lines up with the yoke. I didn't notice it until I got the message! That SUPER funny! I appreciate the feedback. His concern was that the bones would hit the frame. He's right, they would, but the bones are actually about 14" further out to the side than I need on each end. The 35/36 bones won't allow me to put that much angle on them, because the axle housing is too big. I have the mounts Pinewood sells on here. I shaved them down as much as I could to make them angle in, but it's still not close to where they need to be to meet up with the wishbone. Plus, the inside mounting bolts won't clear the axle is I angle them more (and I'd have to shave material off the stock 35/36 mounting holes. His mounts are set up for rods on the outside of the frame (running parallel), unless you use a smaller diameter axle housing. They do fit a 3" axle housing PERFECTLY! Again, this is the first time I have done anything like this, and I have to weed through tons of forums and articles. If I'm doing something wrong, please feel free to post so others know. I had two options from what I could tell, and when I made the pattern for the rear horns I made sure to leave room. Once the rods are where where they should be, I will have plenty room. A. I can use Pinewood's mounts as I have modified them, which actually put the hangers very close to perpendicular to the axle. Then slice the rods, angle them in and shorten them to fit the yoke. I'm already kind of sad that I have to cut these up to shorten them though. Anybody have cut offs? B. Make new mounts for the rods to bolt to. This would let me angle the rods in without pie cutting. But, it would require torching, bending the hangers to work and the mounted being placed on the bottom of the axle. Also, the axle would be about 2" higher than where it's at. So the axle would be higher (car lower I guess). C. As suggested by Hughes Auto, cut and move one of the stock mounting points on the rear rod so it will clear the axle. I never thought about this option. I chose option 'A'. I like the look of the axle tucked into the rods. I have to shorten the rods about two feet to make my wishbone, so I figured if I'm already going to cut them, a couple of slice cuts to angle them closer to center wasn't going to matter. If I'm way off, let me know. sometimes I over think things and miss the obvious. This is one thing I really sit and stare at, and it also frustrates me. I also reviewed probably close to 100 builds before I chose to run this rear set-up.
Dude, I drank a pint of Surly "Bender" and read the whole thread. Keep it local, right? I have too many comments, but like you, I don't like too much clutter on the build threads. One thing is for sure though, my next project will be a Ford.
Yesterday some of us from the Club spent the morning at the famous French Lake Auto "Junktown USA" salvage yard. I didn't find anything useful for my build at the yard, but we did stop by a fellow Ford Barn Members house on the way back. He is my 35/36 parts supplier. I got my radius rods and dash from him. He had a few drive shafts so I picked one up. I didn't have much time to play at the shot, but I trimmed the ends off and cut it in half. These will eventually be the lake headers. I put the rear shock mounts I found in vinegar for four days. The nuts and hardware were super rusty. So rusty that I couldn't even see that there was a lock washer under the nut. A little bit of penetrating oil and the cam right apart! The other day I helped a buddy put tie rods and an alternator in his car. I looked at his radiator and had to measure it. It was about 18" x 22", mounted in a horizontal position. I'm thinking I can run it vertically with an inline radiator fill/cap and I have a low cost radiator that should cool the little 215. The stock car was a 4 cylinder, though. I'm picking it up cheap. I have been slowly getting work done on the rear spring. It was full of grease that turned to tar. It took a while to get it all degreased, but I did it at work so I had time. I had two hours available so I was able to get most of the smaller springs started. I rounded out the ends, and blasted them. I have to pick up some sanding disks then me and the leaves will spend some more time together. They'll get there. 12/14- I picked up the S-10 clutch kit. After some research on British forums I found the info I needed to run the Olds 215 with the Camaro V6 T5 transmission (Part number 04-130, NU-1904 or MU-1904-1) 9 1/8" 14 spline. I have to have my flywheel re-drilled for the S-10 pressure plate as well. Waiting for a '36 Ford dashboard waterfall! Bling for the dash!
Round two on the spring leaves. I have been tapering the ends of the springs. I think I have the general shape, now I need to smooth them out and paint them. I went out to a club members place and finished up the drivers side kingpin bushings. When I picked up the original Model A hood, he had a custom 30/31 hood that had the hinge removed, and was stretched about 2". I decided I want to run lake headers so I was going to have to cut the nice original hod I had. I figured I would make new hood sides. So I asked my buddy if I could take the stretched hood back to the shop to see what it would look like. The stretch is minimal, but I think it made the proportions exactly what I want, and I won't have to ruin a good Model A hood. I finished the day but plotting out the inner frame for the body. I was able to get a couple pieces welded in. I'll be back at it tomorrow.
Thanks man! I'm pumped about it. It's exactly what I wanted and didn't know I needed. I think it was just enough. I stranded myself at the shop for 9 hours today.
I started fixing some of these tears at the top of the rear panel. But the entire rear panel is wavy and banged up. Are the reproduction skins even going to be close to fitting or should I try to smooth out what I have?
I welded up the three tears in the rear panel the other day. It gave me a chance to play with some of the hammers I have been gathering. It's far from perfect, but it looks better in person than it does in the photos. I'm MIG welding this right now. I'm gonna try and gas weld the other stuff. The MIG is a pain. I have been watching a lot of videos and reading about sheetmetal work. This is my chance to try it out. That's all until after X-mas.
There are only a few people that make header flanges for the 215. Being I'm on a budget, I had to hunt around for something I could afford. British V8 had a member that was cutting flanges for the Buick 215. From what I know the oil dipstick is a bit different on the Olds 215, but I'm willing to give it a shot. I was excited when the arrived.
I still have a bit of research to do, but so far my radiator experiment is going well. Hopefully it will be adequate enough to cool the little 215. This is a 2" drop from stock. I also bought a spare set of heads- And "picked up" another block in the deal......get it? And this! 215 Chainsaw
Three days off! Yeah! I returned the stock hood to the club member that sold it to me and picked up a set of 37-41 front bones and a Model A headlight bar last night. Today I attacked the frame. I welded the outside of the pieces and ground them all smooth. Then I spent the rest of the day getting them placed and welded into the frame. I should have the rear cross member in tomorrow. I'm SUPER excited right now. I'm finally getting closer to having this on it wheels.
Thanks fellas. I'm finally starting to reach a point where I can create what I see in my head. I'm real happy with it. No pictures today. I was able to get the cross member blasted today. Then I decided to start cleaning up the rear axle. What a nightmare. Grinding off all the rust is a shit job. It filled my respirator, my filter and made a mess on the floor. Note to self: If I ever build another car find an axle that isn't caked in rust. I have to go out on the town with the lady and friends this evening, so my day was cut short. I didn't take any photos because the shop was horrible and I wanted to get out of there. Last f@@king holiday. I'll be in the shop while everyone else is hung over tomorrow. Party on! Happy New Year.
The Jalopy Journal
