So I am installing the glass bowl 1904 holley. The bowl fills up quick and then over flows out of these 2 holes on the top....my old holley has what looks like a bunch of silicone plugging the holes on the top....is my fuel pump pumping too fast how do I fix this issue? Thanks for your help here's a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGNMLABkkjM&feature=youtube_gdata_player And some pics of the holes it's coming from. The holes right at the end of the screw. The bowl filled up right after overflowing My old carb plugged up holes
The needle is not closing. I never worked on that model, but the angle of the tab that pushes on the needle, looks wrong. Is there a chance you have the float hinge pin in the wrong set of holes? Anyways, pull the glass cover off to wirk the float and needle by hand, to see where it is sticking.
I just had a look at mine, it seems your needle is too short! your float is installed same hole as mine but the tab is maybe 1/8" bent up yours looks to be closer to 1/4" and with how it is sitting would be pushing the needle to the side more than up to seal, if you cant get a longer needle bend the tab so it pushes in the centre of the needle rather than on the side, might have half a chance that way?
Definately compare the needles from both of your carbs. Rebuild kits have questionable parts especially the needle and seat. May even want to consider using your old ones in the rebuilt carb. Make sure they are not heavily worn. I learned a bunch about these carbs here in the 'vintage sixes' forum. http://fordsix.com/forum/
Certainly looks like the needle isn't closing . Also, check the level of the float and check the float itself . Yes, those things can and do get "pin Holes in them over time . I run a similar Carter carburator on my Ford 300 six . Look, htat Holley isn't a bad design and for the money, it's relitively easy to fix too ! scrubba
the float level is to hi the holes at the top are ventsk how many psi is pump putting out 1904holley 3-4 psi max hopefully the manual below will help it is a pdf 1904 service manual http://www.hansenwebdesign.com/truck/files/manuals/service/18 Carburetor.pdf mor info here http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H1904-IHC-1953/index.htm after you get it running right Load-O-Matic Distributor & Spark Control Valve what it does http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp
Ok so I put the glass bowl onto my old carb. Turned on fuel pump and it shut off when float went up. I removed needle and compared Old on the left new on the right.. Then I switched and it seams like the old needle slowed it down but def did not stop it so I think the seat and needle need to be changed......can you take just the seat out of the old and install into the new?
Thank you....I'm not sure the psi on the pump...I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the float level...thanks for all the info
Turn the carb upside down so the weight of the float is holding the needle closed,then bend the little tab under the needle to get the float level that you want.
how to set float level halfway down post http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forum...904-carburetor-rebuild-part-2-reassembly.html http://www.ihpartsamerica.com/forum...04-carburetor-rebuild-part-1-disassembly.html
The tab on your float has previously been adjusted by Dr. Goodpliers (the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench)! The tab should bend up and then bend back. The second bend should be perpendicular to the fuel plunger. With the current configuration, the float tab is pressing the fuel plunger sideways, thus unable to exert sufficient force to allow the fuel plunger to shut off the fuel. It may be too late for this float, but the proper bend looks like a lower case "h" laying on its back. The long leg of the "h" is the float arm, and the short leg of the "h" is the portion of the tab which presses against the fuel plunger. Jon.
FIXED IT! Thanks for your guys help. I took seat and needle and float out of old and put in the new....it worked! Shut off and stayed off. Learning new stuff everyday...I love it... I think the float without the proper bend was actually part of the issue Thanks cruisingratiot for all the links with info. Huge help. I'll attempt to rebuild the old carb just to learn....then maybe run 2 carb manifold...
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