Here we go again! Another "What's it worth"...5-window!

I have the opportunity to buy this:



I'm 99% sure that all the fenders are there, pretty sure about the trunk and doors, and 50/50 on the hood & sides. Also fairly definite that one of the frames in the background is for this.

BIG Q.....what's it worth a) with title and b) without title?

I know it's worth what someone is willing to pay, but I don't want to pay out-o-the nose!

Thanks for all constructive input!

 

It makes all the difference in the world >>> how rusty/bent is it?

Based on the parts you listed, it could range from $200 to $6000.

 

5 yrs ago I bought a rough meaning no floor and needing every patch panel for $1000. It was the shell, doors, fenders and deck lid. I consider my buy a good deal.

 

yeah but this is the sunroof model. Those are really rare.

Is that a 40 ford?

 

Al

The body has been in this general position for quite a while.....probably years. I would imagine the subfloor is swiss cheese or worse. The body itself is much more straight than not, but I haven't really had a chance to look at the problem spot...the rockers/lower cowl/lower quarters. If I recall correctly, there's minimal rust above 6 inches from the ground.

The rear fenders are pretty nice, not sure about the fronts.

How much closer can we get now?

 

Looks to be worth about $12.00/ 100lbs.

 

TD

Unless I'm grossly wrong, it's a 35/36!

 

in order to guess what's it worth we need to know what is there and what condition. anyone who guesses based on the information given is just pulling a number out of there ass.

 

Lets go about it another way. How much does the seller want for it with or without title??

 

Oldx2

REALLY!?!?!?!

No, this thing is definitely worth saving! My idea would be to build a LSR/drag-style fenderless car with a track-ish nose and smooth hood and hoodsides, but that's if the front sheetmetal can't be found. If it's "all there", it should be an early post-war hot rod, full fendered and all!

 

35/36 - leaning 36. Rear fenders are worth a few hundy if in good shape.

 

I'm thinking it's a 35/36, in the 500 to 1,200 price range. HRP

 

RV

I'm not sure, but I am planning to take just enough $ to buy it and see how it works out.

 

HRP

Is the $500 including the frame but no title?

 

Go low, Brett. That thing will nickle-and-dime you for all the little things. The dash/guages, alone, could get spendy.

 

A 35-36 SHOULD ABSOLUTELY NEVER NOT HAVE FENDERS.....ever. If you buy it plan on spending the money for the fenders and grille. They're turds without.

I'd say, why take on another project when you have two on the plate right now and nothing ready to say it's finished. Focus on the two at hand. If you buy it try flipping it. Just my $.02.

 

Brett
A very important part is the deck lid, it has been my experience as of late that mid to late 30s Ford deck lids are golden.

Patc panels are available for that as well as a floor etc. Doors may be hard to come by and the front sheet metal original may not be easy either. You can get the front clip in glass if push comes to shove, just get paint on it and don't tell anyone.

Worth, 600-1500 is what it would probably go for around here depending on how complete it is.

 

JJ, yes, I know YOUR opinion! Check your PM's!

PnB, I'm pretty sure the deck lid is sitting under the carport, near the plastic Willys in the background. I don't think I'd touch it if it didn't have the lid....unless it was less than 4 Benjamins!

 

You can't give too much to buy that car if you plan to fix it. The floor pan and assorted patch panels will run you in excess of $1000, unless you are skilled at sheet metal fabrication. Then it will take you 1000 hrs. of work.

You will have to buy every little thing to put it together. every nut, bole, bracket. Now I understand we are going to change it a bit when we hot rod it, but the more that you have to start with the better.

The car is only worth about 1/2 of what you can sell the best parts for. Remember you have to haull all of it away and haul the junk to the recycler. Now the good part is that you can sell any part of that car that isn't rusted thru.

 

Oldolds,

Yep, I understand everythning you're saying. But....if I picked up a sedan parts car, I could EASILY us it to build this coupe (or at least get it well on it's way)!

I just hate to see old iron not get a hot-rodding chance!

 

parts cars are fine, but this car plus a parts car equals save your money and buy a better car. id give 1500 for it,

 

HAHAHA! Who hacked your account and typed the quote above? It can't be the guy with a 32, 33/34, 35, 54....

 

Brett,You are basically buying a parts car ,,you really don't want to pay more than you have to,,if he has a title and frame maybe 900 - 1400.

Do you really want another project? HRP

 

If it has a decent deck lid and rear fenders, those alone are worth about $1500 on a bad day.

I'd give $2500 for it if I were looking for one.

 

It's a '36, I would say the going price around here (cal) is about $3500-$4000 (with title) on what you said. BUT make sure the rear fenders are for a coupe, the high ticket items you need to make sure are there are rear fenders, trunk lid and grill.

 

I'm no 36 afficianado, but I hear that 36 coupe rear fenders are worth big bucks. BUT (!) you have to be sure you are buying coupe fenders, and not 35 fenders. Do you know the difference?

 

If it's a 36, there's no grille for it. I'm pretty sure she has one for a 35, but it may not be for sale.

How am I to be SURE they are coupe fenders?

 

Earlier post on the differencs between 35/36 coupe and sedan fenders.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=627525&highlight=difference+36+coupe+fenders

 

The differences are slight. The '36 has a crown down the center and the sedan '36 fenders are shorter from the crown to the edge where it bolts to the body. Also the "X" on the firewall makes it a '36.

 

1OT

I won't have two different fenders to compare. Do you know the measurement from crown/peak to mounting flange on a coupe fender?