Bare metal finish. How hard to keep up.

Real shiny paint is more traditional and for very good reasons.

 

"Opinion" often equates to "criticism". What you seem to be looking for is "affirmation". You're wanting to hear that what you want to do is "cool" and "here's how to do it". Problem is, an awful lot of us don't think that bare metal as a final finish is "cool". Some of us are kind torn on the whole "patina" thing, too. Most times it just seems like an excuse for bein' lazy.

 

I may run my 49 Ford sedan in bare metal next summer.

Why?

Bodywork may not be fishished and it's kinda neat to see how it was chopped, what was cut where.

I tried hard to work the metal so I wouldn't have to use much filler, and I wouldn't mind showing it off, before I cover it up.

But, it will get the shiny stuff after that.

Rich

 

I can understand where you are coming from. But I'm one of those who like the patina look. A lot of people work hard to paint their cars to make it look patina. Fake rust bubbles, fading, oxidation. It's just a different taste. We are all in the same boat, to bring life back into these old cars and for others to enjoy what you have done.

 

The front bumper is off a 55 cadillac.

 

GIBBS BRAND will give you the best of both worlds. It will protect it while its bare and won't cause you problems if you want to paint it later.

 

That, and he's so dreamy!!

 

I'd say that pretty much sums it up.

 

I was thinking of leaving the grille of my '54 coe bare metal because once I stripped it down I just stood there and checked it out for a while and woah, it kinda looks cool. I'd like to chrome it but hell, I have no money for that,...so I just thought, well what about bare metal? even with it's flaws, because I don't really mind little dings and stuff, that shows character.

 

Grey scotch brite and WD 40

 

Adept metal work is a thing of beauty and artistry in itself, and it can really be a shame to hide it. Might as well be bondo beneath once it's covered with paint.

 

yep! 'know whats under your paint'

 

KBS has a clear coat made for bare metal so you won't have to put oil on it every other week.

 

thats good to know,thanks

 

you know i searched as many old pics as i could and i never saw any rods or customs driving around in bare metal,,just saying

 

I had a bare metal roof after the chop. Pain in the ass!


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This is mine , 120 grit with a DA sander then scotchbrite by hand then wipe all over with GIBBS brand lubricant you cant go past this stuff .I did the body in July this year and haven't touched the body since no surface rust and i have driven it in the rain a couple of times.After it got wet i wiped it over with more Gibbs to remove the water and re oiled it again , just keep coating it up every so often and it will last ...

 

Quote,

"So ... just to be "that way" ... precisely how is "bare metal and rust" Traditional?"

Every good looking traditional hot rod was once in bare metal! Some people just take longer to paint it.

 

Ok, I need to revive this thread because I have a question. LSRU 2013 is coming up quicker than my budget can handle, so I really doubt I'll be in primer before then. My truck should be all bare by then, but I don't want to panic about flash rust. How much of a pain in the ass is it going to be to remove WD40 or Gibbs a week later? Would simple soap and water do the trick? Do you think it would be easier to just deal with the flash rust when I get back?

I know the simple answer is to just not take the truck if it's not ready, but I need the motivational boost.

 

All ya need. Badass Shoebox by the way. Skip

 

Bought a six pack of Gibbs Brand over the Winter. My '56 had to sit outside for a couple months so I slathered it up real good to protect it. (mostly original paint, lots of patina) I can't believe how well this stuff works and lasts. Water still beaded up in it 2 months later. Just gave it another coat on Friday. Pretty impressed with this stuff.



While I had the can out, could not resist a wipe down of the 55. The old flat black was looking pretty tired/streaked from rain. Sure woke up this old beast!

 

wax

 

I've been debating on the bare metal idea however, I was wondering if you use Gibbs or wd-40 will the oil penetrate the metal to where paint won't stick in the future?


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Man, you guys are missing out! Try Shark Hide. It has kept my ride rust free for 3 years and 5000 miles. It was originally formulate for aluminum boat hulls but turns out it protects all metals from oxidation. Plus you can weld right over it for those who build-drive-build.

You can see more details of my car and build history at
or search youtube for Hooduhthunk.

Driver Front by John Rokus posted May 20, 2015 at 9:46 AM

Mt Spokane 4 768x768 by John Rokus posted May 20, 2015 at 9:46 AM

Mt Spokane by John Rokus posted May 20, 2015 at 9:46 AM

 

Shark hide on Youtube

 

How much do you folks pay for gibbs, quite dear in the uk
Ian

 

Do you think you'll always like the finish? if so then kerosene and drain oil is your cheapest and best bet.

Gibbs they say is good stuff I have never used it. A scotch brite pad is ore then doable and that it probably what I would do if I ever wanted to paint it. Hand prints show up on bare metal real well and people are going to touch it.

 

Because rust is the middle man silly.

 

like this thread, bare metal is so 2011. time for something new.

 

Gibbs