I have done a couple of searches and either i am enter the wrong info or its just not done that often. On my 32 sedan i am wanting to retain the stock 32 spring and use a 9" rear. I have the rear spring hanger kit from Pete and Jakes to get it mounted up. I decide to go this route mainly working with the parts i have collected fro the project. I could always go with a 40 spring and 36 type radius rods but wanted to explore this idea first. my front suspension is 32 axle dropped and plan on splitting the bones. I would like to use radius rods on the rear. First ? does anyone have a photo of a 9" using the stock 32 spring. second how does the car ride with this set up. I have the frame roughed in
I drive a '32 tudor with a flattened stock rear spring on a '32 rear axle. The spring rides just fine until the axle hits the frame. If you are using PnJ style ladder bars they should ride similar since the geometry is fairly close to Ford's. I think the decision of how many and which leaves to use, and the mounting of the shocks, would make all the difference between a good ride and a bad one.
Here's a real nice thread from Nealinca on dropping a 4 door deuce. If you are planning on using alot of original stuff, this thread will help you get the right stance. He reversed the main leaf in the rear spring and with the tall 7.50's, it looks perfect with fenders. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=733180 Your 9" should go in OK but remember, the brackets holding it to the rear are short (about 4 3/4 to center of spring)...important to keep the rear tire in the center of the wheel-well... and at a slight angle because of the curve in the '32 spring (see pic below). That curved spring is why it's not commonly used in anything other than a '32. They're somewhat scarce and you need a cross-member that will accept it.
In my shop I've done several deuces with the stock spring, stock rear cross member, P&J spring hangers and 57 Ford style 9 inch rears. I have always used P&J ladder bars and their rear shock kit. With this set up the rear is just a hair ahead of center in the wheel wells. I've always boxed and C notched the rails and on the sedans I've flattened the floor under the seat for clearance. Works good. Depending on the body style I usually lose a few spring leaves to soften the ride.
I used a 32 rear spring on my sedan, P&J spring hangers, ladder bars with a 9" rear. Like Kyrlon32 said...Works good! I will find a pic of my set up and post it in a bit.
Rex, I have built several using the stock curved spring on a 9 inch rear end. (57-59 Ford SW) Eastwood has been doing this for 30 years and they ride and look fine if set up correctly. I use the complete ladder bar set up but you can use bones also by making some brackets to attach them to the rear end. Industrial Chassis makes the brackets or you can make your own. If you have an old P&J catalog you can see Eastwood's sedan with the set up using ladder bars. I will dig up a photo for you of some I have done. I am happy to see you building the sedan. Lynn
Here are some photos of some of the ways to use bones by making brackets and while I could not find the exact photo you can see it is not hard to duplicate. The straight spring provides more space for the shocks but requires modifying the center of the rear crossmember. 1936 bones can be used by cutting off the spring hanger. PSI made these years ago but I don't know anyone that has them today. The company is still in business in Pasadena - Antique Automotive - Gene Scott. The quick change bells have the short spring hangers you are using for the 32-34 spring. The photo of the 40 bones shows the brackets welded to the housing which could be done on the 9 inch also. The 9 inch is using 36 bones but you could use your set up also. IONIA Rod Shop can help you out with your plan.
This is a '34 but mostly the same thing... Uses stock bones (modified ladder bars), stock curved spring and stock rear end.
Thanks for all the ideas. I have seen a set of the PSI ends but getting them out of the hands of the guy that owns them isn't going to happen. I will have to look at Industrial Chassis brackets i have their crossmember in the frame and we have used it a few times here at the shop very happy with the set up. We had the Iona roadster here at the shop for a while and thats what got me going on keeping the stock rear crossmember and spring. I need to get the frame blasted before i c notch and box it in the plan is to box just the engine bay and the rear kick. I just had Joe Casto in OK drop my stock axle and go over the spindles a few weeks ago, one part at a time. The grand master plan is to have my frame done this winter at least a roller again. the front suspension is just about figured out and i need to round up a either ladder bars or radius rods for the rear. I am leaning towards radius rod on the rear if im using split bones up front kinda want the rear to match some what but the Pete and Jakes set up is hard to beat. Thanks again for all your guys advice i didn't know for sure how the stock spring rides and sometimes a photo of what has been done helps me see what direction i can head.
Rear spring and crossmember is still work in progress but you may get an idea or two. Scroll to pics at the bottom of the page here: http://www.nz-hotrod.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?4857-New-Project-The-Grasstrack-Deuce/page35
When using P&J spring hangars, how far forward does it move the axle when using a curved spring as opposed to a 40 style spring? When using a 40 spring in 32 crossmember, how much grinding does the spring need? Thanks ~ Scott
Krylon 32 said the rear axle setup needs to move to the rear a small amount over the stock setup. I am doing a 1932 Ford tudor now and I would like to know how much to move the rear axle.
When I set up the chassis using the P&J parts the 57 round back housing cleared the front of the stock rear cross member by about 3/16. Close but never rubbed.
I am building a chassis with American Stamping rails and a original 1932 rear crossmember. I can put the rear crossmember where ever necessary. Should it be moved to the rear and how much. I am using the P&J spring hangars and ladder bars. Thanks
The P&J hangars are something like 7.5" axle to spring centerlines if i recall correctly. SoCal make some similar but they're a couple of inches shorter and allow the axle to sit a couple of inches lower too. Couldn't say for sure but i'd be worried about interfering with the stock fuel tank on a 32 with a heavily relocated 32 crossmember and those P&J spring mounts.
P&J makes two sets of hangers for the 32; one for a 40 spring and one for a 32-34 spring. No problem with the gas tank or crossmember on any I have done. I would not grind the spring. I would modify the center of the rear cross member to fit the stock spring. You can also purchase some brackets that Pete Eastwood designed to lower the spring more. The stock spring rides fine if set up correctly.
Thanks for the responses. I am thinking that if the rear crossmember to go to the rear 3/16 or 1/4" it would be simple to do it now.I am using a 1957 Ford station wagon rear axle and the Pete Eastwood designed rear hangars that lower the rear axle some. I just need to know how much. Thanks
I am bumping this back to the top. Can any one supply the correct measurement for a 1932 Ford rear axle location? Thanks
Rear axle center is 74" from center of the cowl tension hole at the firewall. Hope this helps. Incidently, the front is 32" forward of this hole to center of front wheel, or spring tie bolt hole in crossmember. Jack
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