Best mustang II kit

I have not heard of using a Jaguar front end. What kind of price range, and what do they come out of.

 

weve installed all of them and only run fat man in my personal cars and customer builds we are a dealer hit me up if you want to go this route
thanxs
alex

 

I'm a dropped axle kinda of guy but years ago I met Brett Vandervort and he had just started building the mustang II kit,,I bought the cross member from him and was able to find the other components at the local salvage yard to use it under my 40 sedan.

The ride was good and I have no complaints. HRP

 

If you are welding it in anyway-check out these guys...Alliance Vendors,excellent Customer support and a proven product for less $$$

http://www.welderseries.com

 

I have used TCI and Chassis engineering front ends both are a quality product.

 

There is a lot of info already on the HAMB , regarding the Jag IFS swap . but if you have a look here at how Titus is doing his F1 that will give you some ideas

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=753477&highlight=jag+ifs

they come out of XJ6 , XJ12 from about '71 through to ' 86 and also XJS up until about 1990.

.

 

I can understand your like for and preference for the Jag stuff however I will dispute your statement regarding the size and placement of the engine and the suitability of the MII under early vehicles.

The MII was offered with a 4 cylinder engine, but was also offered with a V8.

If you look at where the engines were placed on the MIIs ,they were almost centered over the front axle line.

A lot of the engines weight was over the front wheels.

Why the MII works so well with a stronger than stock aftermarket kit in most early chassis including the years you mentioned is engine position.

With most early vehicles, the crank pulleys may be over the front axle centerline, but most of the engine weight is further back.

What you end up with in some cases is a front suspension that has less weight over the front axle than a stock MII with a V8.

All in all properly set up they work very well.

 

I'm not buying the criticism of the stock cross-member. I've done two of them - 90,000 miles total with ZERO problems (52,000 on a 36 Ford without even re-aligning or changing tires). They are plenty strong if installed properly with the frame rails boxed. The only reason I don't use them anymore is because it is so hard to find a good one that's not rusty and it takes so damn much time to clean them up and fit them to the frame. Spending $250 on the Speedway crossmember to save 10+ hours of time makes sense to me.

 

a company called welder series makes some you assemble (weld) up yourself for a bit of money savings.

here is a link, with video....

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/category/videos/

 

Hmmm, so my 250,000 miles of pure torture on my daily driver haven't happened? Nor any of the others that I have done this way over the last twenty years or so? After looking at the geometry changes most (springs stood up, upper and lower control arm spacing altered, "strutless" lower "A" arms with no support, no anti-dive, etc.) aftermarket crossmembers include in their product, I still prefer using the stock crossmember when ever possible. I know one shop locally that had several Fat man crossmembers cut out of customer cars and laying behind the shop in the scrap pile for all of the above reasons at one point. "Robust" build is mostly there to mask a lack of triangulation and support for the rails. Not a good substitute for proper engineering...