STP with zddp or modern additives

not pickin on it beaner, just always thought if that shit were good it would come with the car.lol or atleast in it. do you think because it was so thick it kinda took took over where the rings were suppose to go. i can see it on a scooter.glad you made it thou. but i sure as hell aint gonna put it on my toast!! damn brother you are one tough old man! lol

 

Right on. www.ZDDPlus.com is a good read confirming your theory. They are an Alliance Vendor here too.

 

Just wondering---the synthetic oils are a lot more slippier than regular oil,so I wonder if you actually need the zinc in a flat tappet engine if you use synthetic oil?

 

While engine oil needs to be slippery, contrary to the misleading STP television commercials Andy Granatelli did years ago, slipperiness alone is not a reliable indicator of how good a lubricant is. There are many things slipperier than motor oil that are totally inadequate for lubrication an engine.

Synthetic oil has improved a lot over the years, but it still has pros and cons compared to "regular" oil. For example, synthetic lubricates better at temperature extremes, but a premium "regular" oil does some things better so long as it is kept within its temperature limitations.

 

Here's some ZDDP info on Amsoil oils:

All levels are ppm:
AMO 10w-40 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil; Phosphorus 1265, Zinc 1378
ARO 20w-50 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil; Phosphorus 1266, Zinc 1379
HDD Series 3000 Synthetic 5w-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil; Phosphorus 1266, Zinc 1379
AME 15w-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil; Phosphorus 1267, Zinc 1377
RD20 Dominator Synthetic Racing Oil 5w-20; Phosphorus 1424, Zinc 1575
RD30 Dominator Synthetic Racing Oil 10w-30; Phosphorus 1424, Zinc 1575
RD50 Dominator Synthetic Racing Oil 15w-50; Phosphorus 1424, Zinc 1575
AHR SAE 60 Synthetic Super Heavy Weight Racing Oil; Phosphorus 1265, Zinc 1375

Above information from the AMSOIL TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) Flat Tappet and Camshaft Lobe Lubrications.

 

I know a guy who had an Uncle Ernie who used 90 weight gear oil Snakolia in his Widgetmobile and it seemed to run just fine, and the oil pressure gauge was real high .....and that's all the proof he needed that you should use it too. ....and he smoked unfiltered cigarettes every day until he was in his 90's, and it never hurt him one bit , and he never got cancer ... cause he got runned over and kilt' by a freight train.



[/QUOTE]
I had a a 60 chevy with The most worn out 6 I had ever seen. Ran 90 weight gear oil and stp for 6 months . Sold it to a kid at Kragens, as a P.O.S., for short term use.
He of course knew more than me, and dropped the concoction, and filled it with 10/30. It made it 15 feet before throwing a rod.
I tried for 6 Months to kill that engine.
For all the cars I've owned,I have never had a problem related to STP, nor have I seen seen any signs of STP on teardowns.
It is a bit hard to put in in a snowstorm though.

 

I put in a half pint of the STP in the Rotella T and did not make the noise it did last year with the department store house brand oil.it sucks as it will need to be changed again shortly since I put about 3000 miles on it going to Daytona last week. Maybe its time to step up to a good synthetic so I can get more miles out of a oil change.

 

I have been using Castrol Edge 5W-50 (formulated for classic cars), I contacted Castrol recently asking how many ppm of zddp was in this oil, and they told me it has 1800ppm.

Now, I would not trust my own advice completely since I am currently having to rebuild my entire engine since sand got in (long story).

 

I also mess around with motorcycles and have found a few that offer an SF rating.

Maxima sells a 10/30 break in oil advertised for flat tappet cams with twice the API SF rating along with extra detergents. They do not say what the actual amounts are.

Redline motorcycle full syn is SF rated with an advertised 2200 PPM. About $15 a qt

Jim

 

I also mess around with motorcycles and have found a few that offer an SF rating.

Maxima sells a 10/30 break in oil advertised for flat tappet cams with twice the API SF rating along with extra detergents. They do not say what the actual amounts are.

Redline motorcycle full syn is SF rated with an advertised 2200 PPM. About $15 a qt

Jim

 

Back to the original. Do you only want to protect your engine every other oil change? Or protection for your engine once a year. ZDDP is a shear/scuff protector. Needs to be in the oil all the time for protection.

 

if i had 4 gal of stp , i would use it up . if it has zddp even better . great for flat tappet cams .........

 

While STP may add some ZDDP, it mostly is a viscosity improver. It makes the oil mix thicker, which in many cases is not necessarily a good thing. Most good condition engines using thicker oil does not necessarily give better protection. Having oil flow is a good thing.

STP does have very high film strength and I have used it mixed 50/50 with regular motor oil as assy lube or general lube for things where the thicker mix is good. Such as hinges.

 

Years back I was circle track racing a small block Ford. The engine was pretty worn, and I downshifted too early trying to pick up some more power and a main started knocking. I absolutely had to make the race the next day, so I tried a can of STP that morning. I was shocked that the knocking stopped. I made the race and finished, at which time the knocking returned but I had finished. If I had another worn out engine that I needed to continue to use, I would add STP.

 

Oil has a molecule chain that is balls. That's one of the reason it lubricates well. STP had fibers instead of balls. That's one of the reasons it doesn't lubricate as well as oil.

For what it's worth, you won't find high end engine builders using STP as assy lube in F1, Indy, of NASCAR engines.

 

Just run "racing oil" it still has the good stuff flat tappet cams need. It's marked "not street legal" or some such BS, but who cares.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Valvoline-Racing/Valvoline-Racing-Conventional-Motor-Oil/761759/10002/-1

 

It looks like I will be changing the cam to a rv grind like what was supposed to be installed in the motor when I bought it so I will have to get some good oil when I change the cam,I cant wait to find out the cause of the lifter tick and see if its a bad lobe or lifter. Its made three trips to Florida with the tick getting worse every trip so if it does have a bad lobe its on a intake valve since there is no popping back up through the carb,I broke the motor in around the time the zinc was being reduced but one would think the motor would have let go after three trips to Florida if there was a problem during break in so I will find out when I get it apart.

 

x2. I am ready to change out my amsoil break in oil .goin to use the 20w-50 Z-Rod oil.

 

x2 on brad penn, air cooled guys love it. my oil temp went down 20 degrees in my 1776 over vr1. thats a helluva lot!

 

Old Thread - but, should be part of conversation with current thread on oil.

 

With Amsoil synthetic multiweight oils the lower number is ambiguous. The old straight 30 weight
would pour down to - 50 degrees F. I am guessing ( you would have to ask amsoil tech ) but I thinkall of their multiweights are in that ballpark

 

Zinc/ZDDP=family of additives called Zinc DiakylDithioPhosphates. good informative reading: The Truth About Zinc & Motor Oil: www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil/
Zinc levels, Viscosity, Synthetic, Conventional oil are not what determines an oil's wear protection capability - it is the base oil and it's additive package "as a whole" - the "load carrying capacity/film strength" - the higher PSI listed with Data information the better the protection - over 90,000 for racing; 75,000 to 90,000 Good; etc

 

more info in other thread on oil

 

worth reading

 

not to bad of a read--->
https://www.drivenracingoil.com/docs/dro/RacingOil101.pdf

 

I mix 50% white grease with 50% STP for assembly lube. I wouldn't use it in my lawn mower or any other engine that relies on splash oiling...it's a viscosity improver which means it increases surface tension...won't splash.
And when I read the guys goof post about using 90 weight mixed with STP it reminded me of when the original engine in my old 57 Pontiac wore so badly it wouldn't hold oil pressure. I was 21,stone broke and actually did mix 90 weight and STP in the crankcase of that old engine. BIG mistake! The engine also had a lot of blow-by and those fumes somehow found their way into the car. Nothing smells worse than hot 90 weight fumes in a confined space...

 

A friend of mine had a 55 Ford business coupe with a ragged out 365 Cadillac in it that had non existent oil pressure. He filled the crankcase with Motor Medic that had the consistency of honey to raise the oil pressure so he could sell it.
Nice guy?

Gary

 

STP around here has a reputation for being crap. I've used it with no complaints

 

I'd never seen it, till I bought a can to use in a manual steering gearbox. That stuff is closer to glue than oil.

 

Hello,
STP was a standard practice in our neck of the woods back in the early 60's. A lot of the local racers used it in their high performance cars on the street and at the drags. One can usually did the job per oil change. In our 292 SBC 671 motor, we used a can to keep everything running well. There was always a can handy. The following was inserted back in September in the wrenching thread:

"Hello,
I keep looking at this scar on my right bicep. I know how that 1.5 inch scar got there, but I cannot believe I would do the same treatment that I did back then, today. This scar is the result of a nasty surface burn created by my bicep rubbing against an open header pipe on our Willys. I was reaching in over the fender to hold the starter on the SBC. My brother was underneath unbolting it to check out why it was sticking or clicking. I was the “man” in being able to hold up the starter under the hot exhaust pipes, but when my brother unloosened the last of the bolts, the starter dropped lower out of the hole. Needless to say, my bicep and arm flexed straight with the added weight. My bicep went right into the hot exhaust pipe until I let the starter drop lower with my brother’s help from below.

The skin was totally peeled back and it stung like there was no tomorrow. Since we had paid for the day at the drags, and our Willys was being prepped to continue racing, I was not going home or to a hospital for treatment. My brother said that I needed something on the wound as it would get infected. I was walking around in pain and to make myself feel better, I ate one of those famous “Lions” hot dogs and had a Coke. My friends behind the counter all saw the burn and were about to gag at the sight of raw flesh oozing.

I went back to our part of the pits and was rummaging around in the trunk of our Impala. I found a can of STP motor oil. It had been used as an additive in our motor, so there was some left over. I decided to put some STP thick oil on my burn and immediately felt a soothing sensation on the burn. Of course I had to roll up my white t shirt sleeve to show off my biceps and to keep the oil off of my shirtsleeve. Ha!. For the rest of the afternoon and into the late night, the burn was not noticeable in the pain department.

I kept the STP on my burn wound all weekend and on Monday, I went to our family doctor. First, he was amazed at what was on the burn. Second, he commended me on my quick action to prevent infections on the wound. Somehow, the STP blocked out all air, dirt, and bacteria from getting into the open wound. Finally, he said never to do it again, but it was a great idea at the time.

The wound healed and left a 1.5 inch oval scar that has lasted over 50 years. A souvenir of my days at Lions, an actual battle scar from the racing days…"

Jnaki