Dodge 218 engine help

Hello every one,I just joined last week and now am ready to ask a question.
I am looking for a good place to get engine parts for a 1955 Dodge 218 engine,I am rebuilding the complete motor. Plus any advice on this motor would be great.
Thank you Tom

 

Hi Tom,

Welcome to the HAMB. There are various sources for parts for your (car) engine. EGGE Machine has all the internal parts you'll likely ever need. If you will pickup a copy of Hemmings Motor News on the newstand, it has lots of ads from suppliers.

By the way, your engine should be 230 cubic inches, not 218. Though almost identical, the stroke is longer on the 230. They were introduced in Dodges in the late '40s I believe (certainly by '49) and Plymouth got the 230 in '54 models. Those engines are very durable if given reasonable care and maintenance.

I have a '49 Plymouth 2 Door with a Dodge 230 in it.

Ray

 

Thanks a lot I know about EGGE and looked at their site.
I need 1 con rod also because no 6 rod bearing went away and the piston hit the head and bent the rod.
The crankshaft forge number is telling me it is a 218.

 

depending on the years they have both motors, and as stated many resources for parts. I found everything I needed to rebuild my 53 power wagon 218 locally, so you shouldn't have a lot of trouble finding what you need. Good luck with your build, and show us some pics.

 

There used to be an amazing amount of flathead 6 parts at NAPA. I would also check with Roberts, www.robertsmotorparts.com don't know if the have rods, but there is a lot of stuff there.

I do remember seeing someone list a set of rods for a Mopar flathead 6 not long ago! (Might have even been here!) I think I would do a specific Google search for rods for your motor. Gene

 

I read here that the 218 and the 230 rods are different,is that true?

 

A lot of parts are still available from NAPA. They made millions of engines and many are still in service in trucks, as stationary engines, farm machinery etc.

Vintage Power Wagons has tons of parts, literally. The last time I looked they had NOS pistons for $75 a set of 6, how good do you want it? They also have rods, bearings, etc.

http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/featured-parts.htm

 

What color should this motor motor be,looks a little like silver right now.
1955 Dodge pickup

 

Through the years, that engine could have been replaced with a junk yard engine. It may be a 218 since you said the crank has 218 numbers. Blocks were the same. I have my 47 Dodge pickup with a Sears Allstate rebuild in it in 1957. The Sears tag gives all the specs except the cubic inches. It could be a 218 or a 230. I will be pulling the head or even a spark plug to check stroke. Lots of parts out there. Check out the "inline motors and 6 Offenders" communities on Hamb. Learn how to use the lookup for past threads.There is also a www.p15-d24.com website. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions.

 

You can gain some benefit by milling the head. The stock compression ratio is quite low (like 7:1), and can be boosted, even on regular gas, without a problem.

 

Tom, a couple of hints..........measure the length of the head it should be 23" but its worth confirming that its definately not the Desoto/Chrysler 25" version........then check the engine number stamped on the side of the block above where the generator mounts........the number should have the series, ie, 1955 should be D56 if its a Coronet. As for engine bits once you know for certain what you actually have then apart from Egge etc I'd try Andy Bernbaums, Roberts Motors and Mitchells as all these places spe******e in mother mopar and have good deals on parts.
As for Hipo stuff, well these engines ain't gunna give a Hemi a run for its money but they are different now and can be made to look and go well...........Try Earl Edgerton for a Finned Head, Offy made twin intakes, Tom Langdon at Stovebolt Engineering does a HEI and copies of Fenton headers..........I've attached a couple of pics of the engine I had planned to use...this is just a mockup and its now unfortunately sold & on its way to the other side of Australia but there are bits around to make these work.........btw that water pump is an Oz only Holden 6 with a custom made adaptor.........the new stock style flathead mopar 6 water pumps have updated impellers and work well, I'd try NOT to use an old style pump with the original seal & impeller..........regards, andyd

 

WOW tons of info given to me,thank you all so much.
Tom

 

Everything you need for the engine is available and as mentioned, be sure to check in to www.p15-d24.com The "Links" tab has a suppliers listing... http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/linksframeset.html

.

 

Here are a few for inspiration.

 

Silver with black accessories (air breather, generator, starter, etc). This was standard on Chrysler engines from the early 30s to mid 50s.

They are a smooth, good running, economical reliable engine. No threat to a hemi in a drag race but plenty of power for everyday use. They are a fooler, 100HP doesn't seem like much but the long stroke, broad power band, gives a lot of punch at low to medium speeds and makes driving a standard sooo easy. They also are immune to some of the worst faults of other engines of their day, like overheating (Ford) and throwing rods at hiway speeds due to babbitt rods lousy oiling systems (Chev). Your engine has good cooling and good oiling and modern insert bearings.

Second the advice to measure the head and give us the engine number, I can ID the motor for you. They used basically the same engine in a lot of cars, trucks etc and they got swapped out over the years.

 

Does any body make a kit to install a oil filter?

 

Sure, Chrysler did, and so did a lot of aftermarket companies. The oil filter was an add on accessory.

If you get the factory repair manual it will show you how to install it.

The factory filter was a byp*** unit that bolted on the side of the engine, above the starter. It had 2 little copper pipes that went to the motor. The filter was a cartridge type. Every 5000 miles you throw away the filter, wipe out the canister with a rag and stick a new filter in. The filters are still available, they use them on tractors and fork lifts.

 

All I have today is the crank number-952068

 

Get a email off to Kanterauto.com ask them to send you a free parts catalog.. They have rebuild kits for just about all early engines... They also carry just about every thing automotive you can think of,,,,,,,,,

 

Thank you

 

Tom.........as I mentioned ...what is the full number STAMPED into the cast in boss above where the generator lives.....this is the engine number and will HELP to determine what you have...............andyd

 

just an FYI: flathead engine numbers

 

Rustyotoole, they have decent cooling as long as you have a good cooling tube in the block. I still want to hear from somebody that has a fool proof way of getting one of those old *******s out of the block. Hay andydodge, what carbs do you have sittin on that mock up engine you displayed for us?? Lookin good. I am in the process right now of building a fixture plate to fab a tube dual carb. intake out of 1 1/2" mandrel bent exh. tubing. I have a collection of stock Carter (Ball & Ball) carbs to go through. Also just came across in my barn a real good set of Corvair 1 bbls I didn't know I had. Old Skool, DARE to be Different. Need to decide before I fab the carb. mounting base plates on the manifold.

 

CountryGent.......those carbys are Oz GM Holden Stromberg single barrel carbys, essentially the same from mid 50's thru to the early 70's, those pair were from a late 60's 186/202 cube six cylinder Holden.....as for getting the ****rel water tube out.......we ended up using the weight of the block to help........the block was out and stripped down so we sat it on the bell housing end and used a pair of the largest flat bladed screwdrivers jammed into the water tube hole from each side and essentially wedged/lifted the ******* tube out......this was after flooding the opening with oil,WD40 etc........the water tube is a full on ******* idea.........lol..........but it must be removed when a block is boiled out..........regards,, andyd

 

Thanks for the comeback andydodge. I am trying to avoid jerking out the engine in my 47 Dodge pickup. When I got the truck, a number of years ago, it was stuck. Filled the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil anf Sloans Linament. Got it freed up and running, but it ran hot. That was as far I got. It has a Sears Allstate Rebuilt engine installed in 1957. My problem could be water pump, which I just read that the modern replacements have better seals and impeller. Could be radiator problem or the dreaded cooling tube. Just looking ahead as the truck is still a round tuit project. Just hoping to replace the tube when I put on a new pump. Somewhere on the Hamb there is a thread on the removal by going in on the side of the block??? Need to look over another engine I have on a stand. Any other info you can p*** along would be appreciated. Carbs will probably wind up "period correct" old Carters. Them tall carbs kind of look kool and the manifold I am building is going to have a little taller risers. Got plenty of hood clearance. Thanks

 

Bought lots of 218 stuff at Napa. Also bought electronic distributor from Langdon's, worth every penny and Tom is a great guy, super helpful. I've pulled two water distribution tubes recently using coat hanger wire hooked into tube, wrap other end around jaws of vise grips, tap vise grips gently with hammer and tube slid out no problems.


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Hay,raff23089. You were lucky! (twice). The last one and it was the first one, I totally destoyed the end of the tube. Never did bugg. luckily it was on a junk block. I'm hoping I will be lucky on my truck. Got any idea how long yours were in the engine. thanks

 

First one was in the block about twenty years or so I'm guessing. It was rebuilt in the late eighties, put back in the Plymouth and tossed a rod the summer I bought it in 2009, just my luck! I replaced that motor with a used one I bought from a guy who had a 46 Dodge truck he was putting a hemi in. Truck was sitting in his fathers barn since the seventies, he said his dad put the motor in it late sixties. So that one may have been in the block forty years!! Luck is fleeting though, I broke every stud in the block taking the exhaust manifold off. Had to drill and tap the lot. I cleaned up the motor, new gaskets, timing chain, oil/fuel pumps, rebuilt carb, distributor from Langdons, rewired for 12 volts, running great this summer. Put a T-5 behind it and disc brakes, relocated front shocks. Slowly becoming a nice little driver. Best of luck. Slow and steady.

 

as stated earlier P15 D24 forums is good if you can get by the eragance of some members. Also NAPA has many parts. and Tom Langdons Stovebolt up in Mich sells performance parts like an HEI and Headers or intakes. Toms a great guy. His HEI is great as well.


PS, hope its a 230. That engine was produced till the early 70's and is real reliable, It is still used in airport pullers, and commercial towmotors.

 

I can't recomend the HEI from Tom Langdon enough, best thing I did..........but there is no way the water tube can be removed other than by pulling from the front......but there are at least 3 materials used in them.......I have seen normal mild steel, copper and also stainless steel used.......its the mild steel ones which are the problem......I originally tried with a hook attached to the tube and attached to a slap hammer, just pulled thru the hook hole........the engine was out so we had accessability and used a pair of screwdrivers jammed in from opposite sides to finally "wedge' it out...........for cooling problems I'd start with the thermostat........check the one that should be there, if needing replacement always check that the new one works in a pan of hot water(the wife will love you using her nice saucepan for this), also fan belt slipage, new water pump, get the radiator boiled out....and finally the water tube tho' if you can easily remove it when the water pump is being done then go for it.......also check the welch or freeze plugs.....they usually have a heap of crud behind them and a good hosing in there can help to remove some ****.........fun.....ain't it.....lol..........andyd