So what's the consensus on adjusting bands? Some say leave alone if not slipping but I have the pan off changing the shift seal and theyre staring me in the face, mocking me if you will. Overall the trans runs alright, the shifts need a tweak due to the lokar throttle cable but not sure if I should start messing with them. Knowing my run of luck I'm nervous I'm going to @&$" it up! What would you do?
Well that's the thing, it appears ok, just wondering if the additional maintenance will be of any assistance to the longevity of the trans
I say adjust it. Bands wear and this is how you compensate for it. I'm assuming you have an inch/pound torque wrench. Or do you use newton/meters down your way? But try to find the specs for your specific transmission. Over the years, and behind specific engines, I seem to recall that the actuator arms for the band came in different ratios. Kind of like valve rocker arms. Also of equal importance is the T/V linkage adjustment, especially if the shifts seem early and soft at light throttle. With the engine off and the throttle return spring removed open the throttle all the way. If you can still move the T/V lever any further toward the rear of the vehicle, adjust the threaded end of the rod so that it will just allow the back of the slot to just fit over the shaft coming off of the throttle lever. What you're wanting is maximun T/V pressure at wide open throttle. And don't forget to put the return spring back on before you road test it!
Was at an auto trans shop with my car recently-it's got a 727- and when we dropped the oil the guy noticed that the bands needed adjusting and did it on the spot. He said that it would help the shifts and increase the trans life. The other thing he did was change the position of the shifter linkage hole so that the shifter and trans were more in phase with each other. My experience with a Lokar shifter for 727's has not been good, I think they design them for Chev and Ford and use the same bits for Chrysler and they don't suit.
People who adjust bands don't have any understanding of how they work. You have a band with a lining that is about .020"-.030" thick. Unlike clutches, bands are not meant to 'wear' - so even a high mileage band should still have the majority of its thickness. Now, you have a servo with a stroke of usually an inch or so. In the case of the 727, that is the case for sure. The servo is going to react very quickly when the fluid is applied and it's not going to stop moving until something stops it from moving - the band tightening around the drum. Does the servo car if it has to stroke .550" or .575"? Nope. So unless your bands were grossly improperly adjusted when the trans was put together, there is no adjustment to be done - not one that will make any difference anyway.
I would say go for it and check that the filter is correct some filter kit come with a universal filter that does not always work.
If it is opened up why would you not adjust them? Loosen the locking nut tighten the screw to 72 inch pounds and back it off 2 full turns. Tighten the locking nut. No worries.
Yes to what he said. Early filters 62-65 had two holes because of the rear pump. The 66 and later filters most commonly supplied have 1 hole.
As someone who has built over 100 TF for street and racing including for Funny Cars and 1500 HP in the day I would adjust the bands. Simple and they do go out of adjustment. If they are adjusted the shifts will be cleaner, trust me on this one. On the forward band (second gear) loosen the lock nut and tighten the screw to 72 inch pounds and back off 2 turns if you have a one piece band and if you have a double wrap band 3 turns. You can look at the band and see if it has two open spots (double wrap) most transmissions unless they were modified for racing have a one piece band. One the rear band (Low and Reverse) I set them at 72 back off three turns as they are almost all double wrap bands and don't get engaged under power like the forward band. The type of fluid you use makes a difference too. For racing use type "F" (I know it says it for Fords) fluid, that is what most racing fluids are form the tranny guys. For street driving Dexron works fine and gives a smoother shift which is desireable on the street. And get the kickdown linkage adjusted as described in an earlier post. Happy motoring. Dan
If it ain't broke why mess with success? Mopar 727's run pretty much forever if you change the fluid and filter every 25,000
For those that say band adjustment aint needed.....tell us why the factpry would have put the adjustment facility on the case in the first place. Thats a LOT of components and co$t for something that aint needed. Just adjust them as described, button it up and call it done. It aint gonna hurt anything. Rat
It is entirely possible that you have the double wrap band in the rear if it is a later model but I would seriously doubt the existence of a double wrap on the front(If you have that I'll buy it). Some front bands will show two cuts that look like 3 pieces but are not a true double wrap. These are single wrap bands that are cut so as to release fluid rapidly, or so I believe.
The adjustment is there in the first place so you can adjust it in the first place. As in, when it is being assembled. Even the 'recommended' way to adjust the band is wishy-washy. 72 inch pounds? Go try to actually do that and, assuming you really have a decent torque wrench, you'll find the results are not repeatable and so varied you might as well not bother.
Good point Have one with foot/lbs and that fella newton, just have to work out the conversion to inch I heard mixed reviews about the lokar but it was in the budget and have since followed the mod of drilling a few extra holes in the KD lever to allow a better sweep, just have to tinker a bit more but the holes made a big difference. Thanks Rat, but knowing my luck I'm expecting something dreaded to go ping or threaded! But fuck it, youve gotta be in it to win it and I couldnt stand pulling the pan off one more time. This car has been a project and I haven't had a huge amount of road time and i really dont know what has been done to this trans. Its not original to the car, it decodes as a 69 dodge charger 727 and have no idea if it has been rebuilt or not. may as well add to the experience, today I removed my first valve body from it to change out the shift seal so adjusting bands can be the next one. Thanks for your input!
Go for it,...As described in earlier post, (#11) it's easy,and since the pan IS off.....Save taking it down at a later time......... 4TTRUK
If you don't have or can't borrow an inch pound torque wrench. What I have used in the past is a small ignition wrench. If you start putting too much torque on them they just spread open. It worked for me many times before I bought an inch pound wrench.
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