That's what I meant by scallops - that's what I heard them referred to years ago by some older gentleman at a car show when I was younger. BTW - Just saw where you are in FT Wayne Indiana --- I've been there for work several times this last year. I even flew in to the airport --- some guy remarked that little old ladies hand out cookies at the airport --- I thought he was full of hot air --- untill I saw a kindly little old lady who handed me a cookie and said "Welcome to Ft. Wayne dear..." Neat!
I drove to Palominas today, and I saw your wagon sitting in the carport. You live just down the road from Squeeg....
Hey Jim! Found me eh? Its pretty easy to find. That corner....every Friday and Saurday Night I get to listen to people do the "holy %$^&@ I missed my turn maneuver - lots of people use my driveway as a turn-around - always gets the dogs worked up! Saving up to build a garage so I have a place to house the Edsel - and a couple of other projects I have up in Tucson.
Time for an overdue update! Well - last weekend I decided to see if I could figure out WHY this thing keeps killing mosquitoes! So I pulled the carb - tore it down - and took a good long look. CRAP. This was a 0.98 model 2100 carb (too small for a 332 - stock is a 1.02)- and when I looked with a magnifying glass (eyesight not too good) I could tell that the jets were drilled out and buggered up. So - since the idle mixture screws on this one were sloppy (closer inspection showed wallered out threads in the carb base....I got on flea-bay and ordered a rebuilt carb. The guy has TONS of positive feedback - and he even included the dashpot and bench set it for a 332. So - today I swapped out the carbs. While pulling my old carb the heat riser tube broke at the exhaust. So I'll have to figure that one out soon. Put the new carb on - set the idle mixture screws blocked off the heat inlet and fired her up. NO MORE RICHNESS!!!! The idle is a lot smoother - and I no longer have copious amounts of excess fuel leaving the carb. Behind the car I no longer have that gasoline rich smell - just old fashioned exhaust. Then...the hood opener cable also snapped. Just not my day in some regards - but in the others --- progress!
Nice looking wagon. If you are going to rebuild the old FOM, might consideer a FOM/FMX build. You will love it taking off in first ALL the time. Great upgrade.
Forgot about your trip to Ft. Wayne. Hope it was Cookie Cottage cookies they were passing out! And I hope you weren't on a diet! With the new carb you're going to be drivng this thing 24/7. Hope you don't wear out your new tires. Until you get your choke heat tube fixed you might want to try to rig the choke up in the full-open position. Probably don't need it too much in your part of the country. Years ago there used to be a kit available that relocated the heat tube along the outside of the manifold. It had a curved tin shield and a couple clamps that held the new heat tube against the manifold. It wasn't pretty but it was easier than replacing the manifild or redrilling it. NAPA or some similar parts house might still have them available.
Hi rprice76 you have and awsome car and an awsome thread going here, just a thought on your wheel problem, have you checked your spare tire? If it is an original edsel rim then really you only need one more to make your set complete. Maybe post a face on blown up picture of the rim your looking for on your thread here. I know I have about 10 oddball rims here someone might have atleast one kicking around forgotten.
There was no spare in the wheel well when I opened it. A PO carpeted over it - once I uncovered it and opened it - all that was inside was a rusty tire iron - and the broken accelerator pedal.
Hey All - Been working on other non-car projects of late - but I took the day off to relax and play with the Edsel a little. I noticed some surging and popping at mid-throttle the last time I had it out where it would act as if it wasn't getting enough gas, then it would be fine. Thinking I was low I put gas in to no avail. Then I thought perhaps its an ignition issue as I saw this happen once prior to replacing the carb. I also saw this once before on a non HAMB friendly car. So today I put in new points, condenser, rotor and cap. It seemed better a bit. But the popping was still there. So then I thought I wonder if I have a sticking valve. This is where it gets weird. So I took the remaining marvel mystery oil - got the idle to about 3k and poured a little down the carb - it smoked - then cleared right up. I had no more problems with popping or surging (took it down the street). So I shut her off and cleaned up my tools - then took her out once more. Popping and surging is back. So - I'm wondering if I'm suffering from two possibilities - sticking valve - and now - a blown power valve. When I got back I noticed she was running rich again (sign of a bad power valve).
about carb: see this restoration document: http://www.midlifeclassics.com/portfolios/1964_Galaxie_500_Restoration.pdf thewre is intresting carb text: Carburetor: The original carburetor was rebuilt during the Return to Service project back in spring of 2008. The amount of tar-like fuel residue that was in the carburetor made a proper rebuild nearly impossible. The effects of residual contaminants were evident when the engine was first brought back to life after this restoration. The problem was resolved (for now) by removing the carburetor and clearing out all the internal passages. However, the engine still retains a bad hesitation or "stumbling" just off of idle - which makes taking off from standing starts without stalling somewhat challenging. This is due to the carburetor being jetted for the fuel blends sold back in the 1960s. Today's fuels burn much leaner and the best way to compensate for this is to replace the existing carburetor with a more modern unit that can be properly jetted to burn fuel at the proper mixture.
Well yesterday was interesting. I woke up to find my daily driver truck had a flat, and no amount of budging with a standard tire iron would remove the lug nuts (thanks Tucson tire shop!). So I had two options. Phone a friend, or drive the Edsel. However, I decided to swap back to the old carb as I didn't want to deal with backfires and surging. 10 minutes later, and a quick bath to get the dust off the old girl, I headed out to work. No problem. Still runs rich on the old carb, but ran fine overall.
Greg - I agree! I think I need to start trying to find out WHY this car runs better on a carb with settings that are way too rich - but runs like crap with a carb set for a 332. Again I am a Model T guy and never had to really deal with carb jetting before. The old VWs I owned never seemed to have carb problems. This is the first classic I've owned that has been giving me trouble. I may need to "phone a friend" on this one.
Carburetors seem like mysterious and complicated devices. And they are if you look at them as just a single part and consider all the different things they control and the conditions they operate under. But it's much easier to understand their workings if you look at the carb's individual circuits and systems. In a lot of cases these circuits can be pretty simple by themselves and they ofetn work independantly of the other circuits. When you know how and when a specific circuit is supposed to operate, it can really simplify your trouble shooting efforts. If the main circuit isn't operating properly, you're probably not going to fix it by fiddling with the idle mixture screws. That's where you might find this carburetion theory article helpful. You can read a section of it at a time and cover an individual area of the carb and how it works. But you don't have to try to learn about everything all at once. It's pretty nicely illustrated as well. http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/articles/Carburetion/Carburetion.html If it does really have to be excessively rich to run well you may be fighting another tune-up or mechanical problem. Is the timing where it should be and does the distributor advance work properly? Is the coolant getting up to full operating temperature? Any "hidden" vacuum leaks like choke pull-off, vacuum advance or vacuum modulator? Is the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold plugged or a heat riser valve stuck open?
I havent got to the carb on the edsel yet, but on my 350 chevy, and my 351c ford, i ended up buying a new edelbrock and all is good. My plan is to rebuild the ford 4 barrell for the edsel, but if it goes like the rest of my carb experiance, I might end up buying new. I put an old 2 barrell on her for now, but the factory 4 will be my carb of choice, if I can get it working :/
Hi! Totes Cool thread, I was just searching for Edsel road test info & found this! I often hang out at fordfe.com but sometimes here too. My suggestions on your Edsel wagon for rprice: * Road test I have of a 58 Fairlane 332-2v-fordomatic says 0-60mph 12.7sec. * Your Edsel is probably 200lb or so heavier so I'd guess 0-60 in the 13s for you. * That's not awful, but your average Ford Focus or even Pinto will do better. If you cant sort out those carbs- * Obviously clean em, I use brake fluid, gasoline, lacquer thinner, gun cleaner/acetone and lots of air blowing. * Look at the boosters, make sure the lower part is not pulling out of the upper part. Rare, but I've had it happen twice & the car runs just as you describe. * Check your TOTAL timing including vac advance, you want about 40-50 degrees INCLUDING vacuum at cruise. If its much over 50 the car will skip&buck, too much advance If you STILL cant sort it out, Greg gave a good hint: * Find yourself an iron Ford FE 4bbl intake. Any FE car iron will fit, but you need the 65&earlier style with the front fill tube & PCV/road draft in back. They sell for about 30 cents a pound or free, but find one nearby if you can to avoid shipping that 80lb monster. * Get a 4bbl carb. I build my own, any Autolite 4100, Autolite 4300, Holley 4150, or Edelbrock/Carter AFB will fit right on there. If youre tired of used carbs, get a new Edel 500cfm or Edel 600cfm & be done with it, they run great on there right out of the box. * Of course then you will want dual 2" glasspacks to go w/the 4bbl. It will sound & run better & probably get better MPG too. Good luck, cool wagon! PS, anybody have any links to old Edsel road tests? thx!
I see you refer to the engine as a 332 FE motor. I had a 58 edsel el-cheapo wagon and in 58 the engine choices were a 361 [mine was a 361] and a 410. Maybe 59 is different but I believe the fords had the 332 and the edsels had the 361 or 410s. Either way, a 4 barrel carb would really wake it up. Any Holley 4 barrel should bolt-up.
Rocky - Yes the choices in 1959 were different than 1958. In 58 the Pacer and Ranger came with the 361 - period. The Citation and Corsair came with the 410. In 59 there were more choices. The choices were a "Economy 6" (223) the "Ranger V8" (292), the "Express V8" (332) and "Super Express V8" (361). I have been thinking about going to a 4 barrel.
Hey all! Been slacking lately what with the holidays and all. However, I have some spare time coming up in January - along with some more "toy" funds in the form of a bonus. I may see if I can scrounge up the remaining parts for the PS setup - and really tear into this beast.
Forgot to post this part --- was perusing Phoenix Craigslist and found the attached car for sale - NOT MINE. It's for sale at a local business in Phoenix. Wish I could get the curved chrome and Villager only "EDSEL" lettering off the gate!
Hey All! So of course the holidays have impeded any progress on the Edsel - until today. For the last several months I've been limiting the amount I've been driving since I do not have a solid steering setup due to the removal of most of the PS equipment. I've been trying to get most of the parts together, but have found that one of the hoses is made of unobtanium. Recently I thought of making some type of adapter to replace the old control valve that is there, and after much thought and design - decided to look to see if someone had already thought of it. In fact - Ford had thought of it, but never produced one. http://www.stangerssite.com/manualadapter6566.html More research led me to this page. http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1967-70-Grab-A-Trak-Manual-Steering-Adapter.html I then spent the last several hours researching the differences between the Power Control valves from 1959 through 1970. For 1959, everything was pretty much the same. 1960 there were hose diameter changes. In 1968 there were control arm center link size changes - which led me finally to: http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1962-65-Ford-Manual-Steering-Adapter.html I talked to one of their techs who assured me "it should work as long as your center link is 1". I pulled out the 1959 Ford Control Valve I bought to replace the one on the Edsel - same as the Edsel valve with a different number - and it was 1". So I'm placing an order. Maybe in time I'll be able to find the hoses I need.
I worked on one of these on a 65 mustang. I know on it you really need to watch the hose routing so nothing rubs. I didnt get into repairing the old unit. I sent the whole thing out to be rebuilt. Good luck on it! Those power units are a real pain.
Hey Greg! "Those power units are a real pain" Yup - the reason for the adapter. Should be here Friday --- will post more then.
I disagree. I had manual stering on my edsel. Total nightmare on slow town tracffic. SO, 150 USD cost used power steering setup, what a great ebay find. I replaced all hoses, I bought service kits for control valve & cylinder & pump, cylinder bushings I changed too. Those all are pretty easy to restore. Power steering is working great now, no leaks. It`s much nicer to cruise on a sunny day. Remember also power steering steering box ratio for power assisted is 1:20 ( ca 4.25 turns) and for unassited steering it is 1:26, which is about 5 turns from left to right. I have manual steering box, so I must have very fast hand to operate car :O) If you put manual steering adapter to steering box which is meant for power assited.. how hard is to turn your edsel in tight corners ? keep your powersteering !
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