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problem with my crappy 32 5w body mount

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brady1929, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,604

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So right now I am really frustrated with my 32 ford 5w crappy project. I am trying to mount my 32 5w body to a 32 frame that was built in a jig. So I can ATTEMPT TO DO SOME BODY WORK. Anyway, as you can see in the pic, the most forward body mount that attaches right by the firewall does not line up. The picture shows the body outboard of the hole. And it is that way on both sides. I know it does not look like a lot, but when I push on it, I am kind of pushing up against the firewall too. Is there a trick? Am I missing something? Please help me. Thanks in advance.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,472

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My after market TCI frame did the same thing. I think the hole is supposed to be at an angle so the firewall is pulled in board as you tighten the bolt. If it pulled straight down then it would not seal as well. That's my story anyway.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2012
  3. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,194

    titus
    Member

    Yep, the aftermarket rails dont have the angled cowl bolt, the original frame had a angled notch for it.
     
  4. timwhit
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,181

    timwhit
    Member

    You can drive yourself nuts trying to figure it out or realize that there's nothing you can do about the frame setup and maybe not be able to move the foot over enough without tweaking something else so ream the firewall foot that 1/16" and move on.
     
  5. thequietwon
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 600

    thequietwon
    Member

    That bolt is supposed to be angled ...orivonal frames had a angled notch in the frame to match. Nothing to worry about...bolt is there to tighten body against firewall seal.
     
  6. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,194

    titus
    Member

    I myself would yank the body and fix it, it will just be a pain down the road when everything is painted, fix it now and save the trouble.
     
  7. Buz
    Joined: May 18, 2007
    Posts: 139

    Buz
    Member

    I believe that bolt is used for lining up the door gaps. Pull down on it and the back of the door will come up. It never tightens down to the frame.
     
  8. ronnieroadster
    Joined: Sep 9, 2004
    Posts: 1,174

    ronnieroadster
    Member

    Thats not a body mount hole. Buz is correct that hole is used on the lower cowl for lining up the door gap if needed so you only tighten the bolt enough to pull the outer skin down its not to be tightened all the way. If the body work is done correctly you will not need to put a bolt in that hole. On my Choped Deuce five window theres no bolt in that location. The forward body mount hole is located inside at the base of the front door post in the subrail area.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2012
  9. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,604

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    can someone please post a pic of an original setup?
     
  10. cracker head
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 965

    cracker head
    Member

    [​IMG]



    See the "dip" in the top of the frame rail, almost at the end of the wishbone?...
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2012
  11. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,604

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  12. teach'm
    Joined: May 8, 2005
    Posts: 324

    teach'm
    Member
    from Tucson, AZ

    Hey Brady,

    We used a stud instead of a bolt in the hole that pinches the body and frame, which made it easier than trying to get a bolt started. Hopefully the pictures make more sense than my description!

    -Ryan

    .
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,194

    titus
    Member

    Well technicall it still is a body mount bolt, it just has some purpose to it.

    The stud is a great idea but it still needs to be at an angle, im sure other bodies could get away with a strait but but they all are a little different.

    When im done adjust the doors i measure the gap and cut a piece of dom tubing and then tighten it against that. kinda solid mounting it but being adjusted correctly

    JEFF
     
  14. turdytoo
    Joined: May 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,568

    turdytoo
    Member

    If you can get a sbc rocker fulcrum on the inside of the frame and run the bolt through it with the nut on the bottom, the angle won't be a problem.
     
  15. hot rod pro
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 2,710

    hot rod pro
    Member
    from spring tx.

    Cut the frame and angle the nut to match huge cowl side. When I use repo frame rails, that is the first thing I do to them.

    -Danny
     
  16. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 7,018

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    I'll take your 5w crappy project off your hands.
     
  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,567

    alchemy
    Member

    Make sure to put the proper rubber seal between the body and firewall, and the proper welting on the frame, when you are setting up the body. BEFORE you do your bodywork. Otherwise you will really be surprised when nothing lines up correctly after paint and polish.

    The virgin '32 tudor I worked on had a slightly thicker rubber pad under the firewall legs than the woven welt that was under the rest of the body.
     
  18. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 7,018

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    Thats a great point about welting on the frame before bodywork.
     
  19. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    All good info here!!!
     

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