$4995....I bought one about a month ago to blast my 55 Chevy 2nd series 3100 with. I doubt a conversion would be cost effective. This unit works the opposite from a regular blasting pot. Air goes in the top and out the bottom. The guts of the thng is a big special valve that goes in the top with a special flange.
Only safety gear I use is ear plugs and eye protection. Don't know how you got cut. A regular blaster will clog right up with water....this is a special setup for using wet media.
I used this on my 55 Chevy 2nd series truck project recently. I blasted/primered my whole frame and inside/outside of the cab in one weekend. This coming weekend I'm blasting/primering the bed parts, doors and front end sheetmetal. I also have a 48 Chevy 1 ton long wheel base panel that I plan on using it on after this pickup is back together. I've started stripping that beast twice already and both times I had to give up because of the amount of time it was taking. With this rig I'm sure I could blast/primer the whole outside of that beast in a weekend. Someone commented about warpage. No heat build up....no warpage possible. The sheetmetal is actually colder when you are blasting it than before you start.
I have shown the website and videos to a few friends, trying to see if I can get a few people to purchase and share a machine. Is is really as clean a process as claimed, one of the videos shows the blasting taking place in a residential neighborhood.
I did it in my driveway in my neighborhood. The media is damp....so if you do a lot of blasting at one time it does build up....but its easy to scoop it up with a shovel. Gets messy if you let it dry out. I had quite a few people stop by while I was doing it and ask me how much I would charge to do thier vehicles. I quoted them anywhere from 1000-1500. I have a list of about 10 people that want me to do it for them.....I just don't have enough free time. I want to get MY project done first. I may start doing other peoples stuff this spring.
It seems high until you spend months sanding and stripping it off by hand. After you do a couple it seems like a very good deal. I bought the equipment because I have 3 other projects I need stripped. A whole car stripped and primered in the same day is well wort 1000-1500 bucks to me.
Being this one back up. I'm thinking of buying one for my shop. I have a big sandblaster just want to know about the glass. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Somebody on ebay has a set of plans for sale , but Im not sure if its the same setup . if it is , its worth the money for the plans to build your own .
What do you want to know about it? It looks pretty much just like sand. It comes in 3 grits. Its crushed recycled glass. I can post a pic if needed.
Hi Carbuilder , dammed if I can find them again . I saved it somewhere , wish I knew where that was . To many late nights . A lot of people are using this with a high pressure washer , http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_8520_8520 . I think its going to make a bigger mess , but it shouldnt make heat on the body panels . Heat is what causes the damage . I'll keep looking for the plans , somewhere ??? Lol
I think this is the same thing I was looking at , but I havent checked it out yet . http://www.sandblasterinfo.com/ He has different plans , I just don't know if he is using water or why you couldnt with his plans . I have sent him a few questions and I'm just waiting on a reply . I'll post the answer here when it comes back . He does address the abrasive clog problems , that would be a big issue with water and glass . Don
Thats the stuff MMLJ sells. I add that to the mix and it will keep the rust off for a couple days if you keep it dry. But if you leave it outside and it get dew or rain on it all bets are off. I've had to redo the top of my cab and a fender. So now as soon as it drys I shoot epoxy primer on the parts.
My son has been saving up his money and thinking about buying one I whatched the video and wondered if it realy works that good and does it hurt the crome or glass
It does work pretty well when just stripping paint and body filler. Rust takes longer. It will hurt the chrome and glass if you blast directly at it and linger there for too long. But you can cover it with a layer of painters tape and then put duct tape over that to completely protect it. I blasted my 55 Chevy truck doors with the chrome door handles still installed because they where badly pitted and I have new ones to replace them. I was surprised that they weren't effected when I blasted around them. But I was blasting at a steep angle. The smallest unit is $5000 and then you still need an air compressor that can supply at least 90cfm. It works really well with a 185cfm compressor.....but those start out in the $2000-2500 dollar range in my area. I found a 100cfm a few weeks ago for $900 and it works pretty well. I just couldn't justify spending another $15000 for a new air compressor from MMLJ to blast a handfull of my own cars.
Thanks for the input. My son is thinking of buying it for business venture we have some sandblasting guys in the area but not all that reliable or timely. We thought the dustless part would be a good selling point and be good for many things like cleaning brick work mold on vinyl siding and who knows what else.
No problem....I plan to use it to strip the old paint off the wood gable ends of my house this summer. Lots of layers and its peeling. I also have a damaged fiberglas hood I want to try it on to see how it effects the gelcoat. Should work really well with brick.
I heard back from Eric , the guy with the sandblasting plans . His isnt set up for water either , but he doesnt see why it wouldnt with a couple of changes . this is part of his reply .....Since I have been getting so many emails about this, I decided to experiment with this next week. I can let you know if it works. Thanks . I guess I'll wait to see what he finds out . I found out on another site , this isnt new . Its common in bigger industry , its just that the dustless crowd were smart enough to market it .
txturbo duze your blaster have an adgator in side to keep the glass suspended in the water or is it areated. Also is the ground glass as inexpensive as they stated in there add about $10 per 40 lb bag & where are you bying the glass. Have you tried reusing the glass
moparmuscle1 that duzent suprise me on the dustless just a new marketing way to sell there machines. I dont have the 5k to 30k & at 65 dont want to spend that much but with some tinkering I think a regular pot blaster coud be modifyed to work well. The thing is keeping the glass suspended in the water.
I wish I had one to go by , I have my ( cold , no heat ) shop out in the back with welders , drill presses , lathe , etc and I'd love to build one . If it was warmer I'd pick around with it anyway . I cant afford that much money either at my age , If I was a younger man looking to startup a new business maybe .
This blaster is unique.....the air goes in the bottom and the water/media comes out the top. That way the incoming air keeps the glass stirred up so it doesn't plug. I don't see how you could make a regular blaster work very well with wet media if the air comes in the top and out the bottom. When this glass is wet and there is no agitation it settles quick and is like concrete. The glass is $10 per bag. I buy it from the manufacturer.....MMLJ. They are only about 30 miles from me so I just go by and pick it up.
txturbo I get it with the air coming in from the bottom that helps with keeping the glass from settling & I realize there is a bunch more wizard stuff going on inside the pot to keep it adjated. If you get a chance to look inside & let us know what you see that would be great.
I think they have a diagram on the website....but they told me its basically a cone inserted in from the bottom with a pipe that sits on top of it. The lever on the top adjusts the distance the end of the pipe is from the cone, which adjusts the amount of water/media that passes through. Its under warranty and its working....so I don't want to take it apart just to see. I have an exploded parts diagram I can scan tomorrow and post.
txturbo that would be great on the parts diagram. Ok the cone would help stop the glass from getting in the inlet. The wheels are turning. Just shine a flash light in from the top & see what you can. When finished blasting is the tank totaly empty of the glass & water or is ther still some in there. I looked on the web site I did not see any thing or diagrams about whats inside or how it works . I will have to relook I could sure use one for a bunch of parts & pieces just dont have 8 to 10 k.
here is the parts diagram....I can't get a pic until later this weekend. My blasting rig is about an hour away at my secret location. All that you will see is the pipe running down the middle to the cone on the bottom.
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