Parking lights ? What are those ? We don't need no stinkin' parking lights ! What I would do in that instance is turn off the switches for the pump, fan, and headlights, and turn on my turnsignals. Don
I used a 14 wire kit from rebel in my 39 . The only problem & concern I had was brake lights won't work when key is off. spent 2days trying to figure it out .I called rebel and they told me it was set up that way
I could easily just jump power off of the acc lead at the ignition switch but really want to know why in my harness that heater lead is always hot when apparently it's not supposed to be...
It's standard to have the headlights hot for safety reasons. They didn't make note of that in the instructions because people familiar with auto electric already know that. Most cars and trucks are the same way. Lights are always hot, switch makes the ground. My 2001 Dodge truck is wired that way. Try to get help from someone who can read schematics.
The problem I have with Rebel is the tailights are jumpered at the headlight switch and the only fuse protection is the 30 amp lighting fuse at the panel.Instead of a plain jumper I used a inline fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse so that if I developed a short in the tailight wiring, the ten amp would blow sooner and not take the headlights with it. I won't buy another kit that doesn't have a dedicated tail light circuit with a fuse. Blue
If you want the headlights to go out with ign off just install a relay in headlight feed and wire relay to work off ign controlled feed, very simple . Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
getting ready to start wiring my truck, with a rebel wire kit. Some good ideas thrown out here. I'll be adding a switch to turn off my fuel pump if needed (while key is on) might even be an anti theft helper. I'll also be adding a fuse to my tail lights.
I guess the extra fuse in the park lights isn't a bad idea as it stops you losing both head & tail lights should a fuse blow but if you do it this way you will need a separate feed for the park/tail lights, you can't just jump off the headlights as the headlight fuse is still the master feed, hope this helps you.
I've sold probably hundreds of Rebel kits in england and fitted most of them and i've never seen this problem before, I still say you have the feed wire from the ignition switch that feeds the ign controlled side of the fusebox on the wrong terminal. thats about all it can be
I'm not getting something here in post 27 Bob from Rebel Wire confirmed the heater cable should not be hot when ign switched off, I can confirm this also, so that leaves 2 choices, either the person fitting it has made a mistake or the kit is at fault (highly unlikely in my experience) Either of these 2 can be easily sorted by a quick call to Bob, has that been done ???
Try swapping the heater hoses Sorry couldnt resist I agree with the consensus on lights hot heater not had an issue with EZ kit that radio was always hot, rep said rodders wanted it that way. Realizing none of this helps Good luck
With ign switch in off pos, only bat terminal will be hot. Red ign sw pwr In run pos all terminals will be hot except start terminal. In accessory pos, bat term and acc terminal will be hot start post will only be hot in start pos. Red, Ign Sw Pwr feed ign switch from 1st row of fuse panel, hot all time Orange, Ign Sw Ign feeds middle row of fuse's, from ignition switch Brown, Ign SW Acc feeds last row of fuses, from ign swith Heater fuse is powerd by brown ign sw acc wire. If your bat and start post are both hot in off pos you have a bad ignition switch. You may have a bad ignition switch
Can you break this down a little more. When you say first and last row do you mean left to right? Top to bottom? OK, under my dash, the brown wire from fuse panel for the ignition is directly connected to the ACC terminal of my ignition switch which only reads hot with the key in the ACC position. The green wire labeled "heater" goes from the fuse panel directly to my heater and has constant power even when key is not in ignition. With that said, are you saying this could be a faulty ignition switch?
The first row is farthest away from flashers, third or last row next to flashers. The brown wire feeds bus bar next to flashers, heater wire gets power from this wire. If brown wire is not hot, heater wire should not be. Pull the following fuse 1 at a time, check and see if power to heater wire goes out. pink 4 amp radio blue 15 amp turn signal and any thing wired in 4th acc spot something has to provide power what is white alternator exciter wire attached to in engine compartment. as for ignition switch, bat post should be only hot post when in off pos. If start post is hot starter will crank.
heater wire is connected to 1 side of fuse, other side of fuse connected to bus bar, that is fed to brown ign wire. both are hot as long as fuse is good. Even if it is backfeeding from somewhere, with a good fuse, one wire can't be hot without the other. Are you using a test light or a multimeter?
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