Projects My Apache...

Either way the hei will be gone off my engine. Ill probably run a small billit msd. Not traditional at all, but ive never seen one fail, ever. and if i run a black cap it wont be noticable anyway

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The Mallory Unilite is a billet deal...I painted the cap black to help it blend in.

 

Yea i was lookin at mallory too, we will see when i get there. I just measure, i have 2 1/2 inches from firewall to distributor with the hei. Also heres a pic of the finished floor bump

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My buddy came down and was using the power and air tools on his car today so i just did some busy work in between helping him. Knocked out templates for gauge panels, ill be making engine turned aluminum panels for the gauges. Also fixed some dents in the dash. There was a gnarly dent under the ashtray, the pic doesnt show how bad it really was but its all squared away now

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Another option is an original small cap delco with points. That's what I got on my car, with an MSD 6AL. It's rock solid, & I had it curved to my setup. It also has a B28 vac can for my low idle vac. My car has never been so responsive. If this sounds like something your interested in, I can give you the name of the guy who built it for me in Denver.

 

I have actually really been considering a points setup. Anything electrical scares me, just for the fact that idk when its gonna take a dump. Points will run rough before dying on you. a spare set in the glovebox and your worry free. when i pull the motor in another month or so ill start thinking about all this. i need to setup the engine with the double hump heads, new cam, 3x2 and a complete re gasket etc etc

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Yep. I'm pulling out my 455 Olds (which I had as far back & low as possible) - see pic.

It's getting a built 355 now...

 

If you run an MSD box the points last 10x longer because the coil power no longer goes thru them - It comes right out of the box. The points only get a small signal voltage.

 

I am incredibly interested in that setup. Sounds like its really simple and reliable

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Hey Green, are you running the stock seat in your cab? Does it tilt? Also are you using the stock gas tank in the cab? I am using the stock seat without the in cab tank. I am wanting to make the seat tilt forward and possibly move it back in the cab to get some more leg room. Just wondering what your plans are.

 

Stock seat and tank. Im hard mounting the seat with a custom frame. Ill be building the column, seat mount and gas pedal setup next week. Im only 5'9 so leg room is fine for me

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Dang that's low!!!!

 

It looks like it, but i still have a bit over 4 inches at the back of the cab. My o/t vw is a half inch lower and ive never scraped around town

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Heres a pic of what im goin for. Shaved drip rails, frenched antenna and rounded door corners. I think the cool thing about a truck is it can have both aspects of a kustom and aspects of a hotrod at the same time which most vehicles cant. door gaps should be fun......Other than that the body mods are minimal. Few more months to get er ready for primer and paint !

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Also, how do the visors attach to these trucks ?

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From what I've seen, they're screwed to the overhang above the windshield with sheetmetal screws...most likely self tapping screws.

 

That was not a criticism... that was a "Heck yea" moment!!!

 

I wasnt taking it as criticism, i was just sayin it looks a lot lower than it actually is. Dont get me wrong its low, but compared to alot of newer vehicles it really isnt as low as youd think. And buzz i thought i had read somewhere it was just self tapping screws. Should i maybe silicone around them when i put the visor on after paint ? I hate east coast weather lol

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I think it looks great!!


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Absolutely do not use silicon. If you're worried about it I would go to an automotive paint store and ask for body caulking (also called body cement). You can also use caulking you get at an RV place (dealership). The RV brands would be Sikaflex or Manus. I bet that the urethane used to seal windshields would also work. The main problem with silicon is that it traps moisture and will lead to rust.

 

Looks badass green, love the stance. Hey! I was asking if your seat tilted forward, not about tilt column!

 

Thanks buzz ill check it out. The seat back tilts forward like stock but it wont have sliderS since im building a custom hard mount

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Ok, I am really confused. How does the seat fold forward? I am almost certain my seat is stock but I don't see how it folds? I must be missing something obvious here....

 

Should be a little arm behind down low on the back. Pull it forward and the whole back flips forward

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Hello,

I was told to check this thread out because I'm Kabwe. You've posted many pics of my truck in this thread. I know its not the HAMB type of truck and nor was it meant to be that's why there is not a build thread here. The fact that you have posted some of the pics here just proves one thing to me. That is even though we may not build the same things it does not mean that we can't appreciate each others craftsmanship. Personally I like a lot of different styles of builds, but I do have preferences for my personal vehicle and I build to my taste. Its just really nice to know that people can appreciate my hard work though it may not be as you put it "your cup of tea". So thank you GreenGrenade.

I really wanted to let you know I looked through your pics also and you are doing a great job.

Now as far as the criticism of my crossmember and it strength. Its seems you think that I simply welded a piece along the top of that crossmember and that is not the case. The crossmember is of course factory and all factory crossmembers remain on that frame other than the one I replaced with the IFS. That piece has vertical legs that go horizontal for about 3 inches at the bottom of each side. It is tig welded along the top, sides, and bottom with a thicker metal than the original. If that is not enough you must also remember that the frame is completely boxed from the front to the rear. There is no way that frame will ever twist.

By the way people call me BAM and its very nice to meet you. I've been to the HAMB many times I just never post because of the kind of stuff I do. I do looky loo though.lol

 

Wow thanks for the praises man. To hear something like that from a guy with your skill is a huge compliment to me and i greatly appreciate it, regardless of the style differences. Ive searched for you a few times on here and came up empty. As far as the crossmember goes, i think that picture i posted on here is also somewhat deceptive and makes that notch look less than what it really is. Its awesome that you popped up in here, and i hope you return to check out the progress/ lend any info or tips since ill be doing quite a few mods that are similar to your truck, and im a total rookie at this ! Lol . I need to register on the chev truck forum, i lurk over there allll the time and i frequently check your build progress

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I started on the driprail tonight. Still working on my sheetmetal welding......

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Thanks for the invite and of course I will take you up on it. I love to look at peoples build threads also. Plus its always nice meeting fellow rodders, customizer, and builders. I like a lot of the HAMB builds because I like all styles.

If I can be of help in any way please feel free to ask because I believe knowledge not shared is knowledge wasted. I learned from others so I try to past what little I know along. That's what its all about in my opinion.

You are doing a good job on the drip rails shaving. Removing a little at a time and welding it up is the way to go because the drip rail is what ties the roof to the cab. Also when you do the back you may have a hump where the drip rail use to be (well a least mines did). So what I did was save the back for last and welded up both sides. When I removed the drip rail at the rear I noticed from the side I could see a hump and I did not like it. So this is what I did cut out about an inch of metal out along the back and made a patch so that it would lay flat. After going to shows I would notice some people left the hump and it looks cool but I like the way mine flows a little better. Its a personal choice.



Just remember when welding sheetmetal take your time and keep that metal cool and you will be fine.

Once again great job you are doing on the truck.

 

Niiice^^^

 

Killer pics man, i read an article in custom classic trucks or one of those similar magazines and the guy just made relief cuts to bring the roof in or out and have a smooth profile. Either way would work well, also ive read a few other threads where guys didnt have to do anything. As we all know, these old vehicles are FAR from precision perfect from the factory lol. We will see when i get to the back

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