I just purchased a fibergl*** roof panel from "Mid Fifties F100" for my 56 and they recommended Automix body panel adhesive from Summit. Anyone ever use this stuff to attach fibergl*** panels to metal. Besides a really clean bonding surface any other suggestions before I cross my fingers, pray and attempt it.
theres 100 different ways to do it. if you search on here theres at least 10 different threads on it (if you find them)
http://www.amazon.com/Fibergl***-Ot...on-Metallic/dp/1557884986/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_1 Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
3M 8115 bonds steel, aluminum, smc, and fibergl*** in any combination. Go to www.3mcollision.com for more information
Yup what he said. I used that to shave a steel roll pan to a fibergl*** bed, worked great. just dont slap bondo over it or you might have problems.
3M 8115 is used to bond outer skins on many new cars...more 'glue' used now rather than welds. I work on Paint Booths at dealers body shops, and see this kind of adhesive being used daily.
What they all said... 8115 made by 3m . A lot of the newer cars use the rivet bonding method nowadays ( it uses adhesive and rivets combined). If there is a way to hide the rivet heads that would be the way to go. Most newer cars have plastic trim and weatherstrips to hide them.
Hahahahahahaha. Friggin hilarious. Next to another term that always cracks me up that i've found you guys use, "The cat ***", thats going to have me laughing all day. Not something you hear in Limeyland very often. Sorry to get off O/T. Yep use the 3M 8115, it's the dogs ********
Any difference between 3M-8115 and 3M-8116. The discription at Summit sounded the same and they recommended the 8116
8116 is the gm and Chrysler approved product. Either will work fine. Both products carry the same warranty, corrosion inhibitors, handling characteristics ,etc.
The only problem I ever encountered is when we put metal structure inside a cheap gl*** body and it deformed the gl***,,you could actually see where the metal was in a few places on the outside of the body. HRP
I agree. I've seen the same thing. Also when molding gl*** fenders on a steel body or a steel panel on a gl*** body you can always see the the line. The 3m panelbond is the **** by the way. I use it all the time for a thousand different things
After bonding, it is best to use a kevlar based filler over the seam. This will help prevent seeing what is called the "bond line". If done correctly, you will have no problem. I prefer the SEM 39747 myself, over the 3M.
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