For my 57 I built a tank that fits where the stock one was, just a simple rectangle, I'm curious about the beds as well, I was thinking it should have flat rails as well, but obviously not!
Thank you but, I know how to post thumbnails, but since there are so many of us on the Hamb that don't see to well, the thumbnails do not come up big enough and little details on projects are very important and can be missed very easily, so I prefer the bigger way of doing things its the perfect size IMO some people go WAY TOO BIG but I do don't think my picture size is unreasonable.
Sorry to put you on blast 55dodgec3 but I like to keep any pictures or info out in open so it could help any other Mopar truck enthusiast. so I will post my answer here First picture is one of the top taken 5 years ago during my build on the truck, the other ones are ones i just took. there is about 3-4 inches clearance between the stock tank and drive shaft. Hope these help some. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
One thing I want say to you 55dodgec3 is a BIG THANK YOU from the bottom of my heart for not putting a Chevy motor in there I have been bored reading 8 other build threads on the hamb for old Dodge trucks for last two hours and I can taste the vomit rising in my mouth, and I clicked back over to see the progress on this thread and now Im feeling a lot better. I can't even post nice work or anything positive on those threads its a breath of fresh air to know there are still people doing these trucks right. so again thank you and sorry for ranting on your thread. -Joel
Haha I totally agree with you, i think its best to keep a dodge engine in a dodge truck. Im even a little bummed that I have a Pontiac rear end, but hey, im tryin to save money and its only a rear end after all. And I might need some advice from you when I get ready to wire up the 360 and hook up that hideous thermoquad.
What did you do for the inside of your tank? Did you have it coated? Or did you just leave it plain steel?
I almost bolted up mine using a non balanced converter this is the right converter, but beware of the flexplate sizes there are two different sizes i had to change mine i was going from a 904 to a 727, when i bought a non balanced converter, mine had a big flex plate, so i bought the big flex plate the new one in the picture. but then puting it together i realized the parts store gave me the wrong converter, then i took it back and got a balanced converter, it was the same flex plate as the original. so i got the big new one for nothing. I did some research and found depending on the year there were big and little flex plates for both 318 and 360 and 904 to 727. I wish i have a chart on what fits what but thats something to pay attention to when buying a converter to save some $, unlike me who bought the big flex plate online and cannot return it. -Joel See the triangular weight on the left side of the converter. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
MoparJoel & 55dodgec3, AMEN on the Dodge in a Dodge. 55dodge, you will be very pleased with the 360. I have a 74 Dodge W200 Power Wagon with a warmed over 360 and it is a beast. Get rid of the Thermoquad and go with a spreadbore Edelbrock 650, or a standard bore with a adaptor plate which would give you a slight more velocity. I have the latter as you can always go with the standard bore on a after market intake later on. Keep up the good work. Lookin good!!!
Thanks! A lot of people think I have a problem with chevy guys and I love em to death but...I do not agree with sticking a ford or mopar in a Bowtie ever. Anyone can look into my previous post and see I have tried to steer guys away from putting mopars in Chebbies, besides dont waste a good motor by sticking it in a GM J/K -Joel
Sorry just saw this, it's just plain steel, uncoated, I built it so the filler comes up in the front corner of the box
The only problem is that going with another carb is going to cost me a couple $100 vs. the free TQ. But I can always change my mind
So Im guessing I would have no rust problems on the inside of the tank if I were to do the same (as long as I keep gas in it). I always thought they were coated for that reason.
Some more pics. I got these out of a car that I didn't know existed at the time. It took a while of looking before I found an ID tag. It turns out that it was a 1970 (not HAMB friendly i know) Opel GT. Anyway, these parts really caught my eye. This steering wheel really caught my eye and the steering column is a good design as well. Plus it didnt have a stock column shift. (And the wheel will be foam and leather wrapped around the rim) This was put in the car aftermarket. Anyone know what it is? Theres no id on it.
TQ's can be a PITA, but when they are dialed in they are hard to beat. If you do a rebuild pay attention to the plastic as they can/do twist/warp. .
I already rebuilt it, but I would have to drill for a vac advance port and find a way to wire the oxygen pulse solenoid. This solenoid was used with the early 80s computerized motors, but since I refuse to use the computer, I need to find another way to wire it up. Ive heard of guys not using it at all, but then they said that you need adjust a lot for the richness that this causes. Any Mopar gurus out there? Here are some pics of that nasty carb before the rebuild. Now its actually pretty nice.
Now that I think about it, does anyone know the signal voltage range for the pulse solenoid? For example I think 0 volts = valve closed = richest possible conditions, and max volts (I hope someone might know this number) = valve open = lean condition. If I can find out the max volts, then I may just run a constant signal lead supplying the (max/2) voltage.
Is this what your "trailer fenders" look like......... Nice work on the oil pan.....mopar made front sump oil pans for their V8 cars for decades by the way.
Nice work on the oil pan.....mopar made front sump oil pans for their V8 cars for decades by the way.[/QUOTE] That what I was thinking! Nice truck though, and Mo-Powered!
Do a browser search for 'thermoquad' and plenty of forums pop up; FABO, cuda-challenger, and such. No doubt someone has used the same model before. And, if you post the carb number we can determine the model year and then a service manual can be identified. .
No, I have actual trailer fenders. And no front sumps for the 360 as far as my research has taken me. Maybe on motorhomes. The 360 pan was different from other LA engines.
They did make front sump pans for cars, but the 360 was only offered in trucks, vans, and police cars (not much info on these). Therefore still no front sump 360 for me to find.
They did make front sump pans for cars, but the 360 was only offered in trucks, vans, and police cars (not much info on these). Therefore still no front sump 360 for me to find.[/QUOTE] you realize that the 273/318/340/360 all used the same pan right.....they are interchangeable....one of the front sump donor pans and its oil pickup and you are in business. EDIT had a 360 2bbl in my 75 coronet now that I think about it......
Im not really one to argue, but trust me, the 360 pan is different. Otherwise, I would have just bought a 318 pan. Oh wait I had a 318 front sump pan, surprise!!! it didnt fit...
The Jalopy Journal
