Projects Koz is building a modified, (my next build)

Thanks! The perfect block for what I'm doing.

 

Tex***peed, I have an old Offy 6x2 intake that I'm going to run the two center carbs linked straight up and the four outsiders just dummied, Holley 94's in all positions. This is a little out of character for me but there is no way that little mouse would tolerate that much carb on the street, especially in its' mild form. I'm sure I can grenade that Ford box and rear at will with the stock motor so a little more is just enough! I'm painting the motor with Eastwoods Buick Red, which is a real close match to the burgundy on the valve covers. Along with a decent cam and double roller chain, a good clean up thats about it for the motor this year. For some reason I'd really like a Mallory dual point in this one. I think they are still available if I can't find a used one.

As always I'm open to suggestions!

 

Koz,

your 283 was originally equipped with a Rochester 2V carb at 300 cfm (from memory, not 100% sure).

This calculation shows that about right:

Chevrolet 283 basically stock with factory 2 barrel<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
CFM = [CID * RPM / 3456] * 0.75 = [283 * 4600 / 3456] * 0.75 = 282 CFM for a two-barrel

I've seen the Holly 94 rated at 150-170 CFM depending on vintage, so your plan for 2-94 looks good to me.

Greg

 

Sweet, I'll be watching this one! I'm building my coupe now and have a 283 going in. 327 crank with some over boring in the cyclinders, three duece on top. Love these little motors!

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I checked out your website noted above. WOW!!! Some super sweet stuff there.

 

Thanks man, it's been baby steps. We just added a 6,000sqft metal fab shop if you want a job down in Texas

I enjoyed your last build, hope that you can finish this one. I know how it is when your shop takes your time and space.

My build thread is ***led the No-Sí coupe

 

I think my 283 is a 64 block and is punched 4 inches. I know everyone says it will run hot but my builder has had his shop open since the late 60s early 70s and built many 283s the same way with no problems. The motor is also in a open air coupe not caged under a hood. Basically a 350 now but in a smaller package thats neater.

 

I've seen many punched to 4", (esentually a 327 block), and as long as you didn't hit porosity in the block they run very nice. Too bad you don't have a steel 283 crank as this gives you a 301 or what Chevy called a 302. Vicous little high winders! In my opinion way more lethal on the street than the 327 your building now. Just a thought.

I had one in my nostalgia rail and the RPM's these things will twist is incredible. I was running a 292, (a 0.30 over 283 in my blue roadster and I routinely dusted the kids around here with their hot Hondas and Nissans as long as I didn't have to make a turn. They had no idea how fast an old man in a Model "A" was!

Cool car. Keep carrying the torch of the old ways.

 

The 301 was a great engine, it has a forged crank and rods, you could wind the **** out of em and they just kept on running. Mine saw 6500 hundreds and hundreds of times over a period of 13 years. It Had a hot 350-350HP cam.
When not street racing I drove it on long trips and never had any problems. I got filled with water and froze up or I would still be driving it.

 

My,my you do go through cars.Hey,that`s life as the old song says.Variety IS the ****e of life.Loving this thread.Your fab skills are out rageously delightful.
Keep Momma happy,or YOU just might be sleeping in the shop.Hehehehe.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Its looking good. Have a coule questions?
What do you think the final weight will be?
Im thinking of building a closed cab fenderless p/u and wondered if 11 ga. was thick enough for frame rails in 2X4''. I see you are using 10 ga.

 

I use 10ga. pickled and oiled for most of my fabbed, (not rect.tubing), frames. The frame above is folded and boxed, not tubing. Some stamped rails are made of 11ga., the difference between the two is .015. Stamped rails tend to use the beads and folds to add strenght. If you are using rect. tubing .125 wall is the industry standard. Plenty strong for a truck of that weight range. The last two Model "A" CC pickups I've built have weighed in at 2240 with a SBC, auto, and 9" and 2180 with SBC, '39 box, and banjo. Both fenderless.

Hope this helps. Give me a call in the shop or post here if I can help with anything else.

 

I have no idea what you are talking about with the smaller package comment.

There is absolutely no difference in the external block size from a 283 to a 350, a small block is a small block.


The only difference is in the external parts that are configured differently. Small differences like breather location, valve covers, oil fill etc etc.

Definitely not smaller, maybe neater as the 283 is a more vintage looking engine in period trim.

 

Who said anything about external?

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I'm hooked . Great stuff!

 

I believe he was talking about displacement. Less cubes. I agree the smaller engine is definitly cooler than the 350 in a light car. For some reason they seem to sound better too.

 

He did, he said it was 350 in a smaller package.
To me that means that the package (overall size of the engine) is smaller.

If a 283 is bored to 4" bore is that what makes it 350 cubic inches ? or is the stroke different for a 283 versus a 350 crank ?

The smaller (displacement) 283 is a great engine, I have had a few of them myself.
Love them, they were one of the best small blocks. Good power and fuel economy too.

I had considered one for my RPU with a powerglide but then went with my first love the Y Block.
Talk about sounding better

 

That's how I read it too.

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I guess I just take it for granted that all SBC are the same size from 262 to 400. Bores, Strokes, rod lenght and journal size along with throw clearance affect interchangability.

Essentually the smallest, 262 used a 3.671 bore and a 3.100 stroke. The largest factory SBC was the 400 with 4.125 bore and 3.750 stroke. Block sizes along with mounting locations etc. were basically the same after '57. Before that all engines used front mounts only. The boses are always there on later engines though many times not drilled or tapped which is easy to do.

You can build an engine for your particular use by playing with components. Generally thinking square or under motors will rum more RPM and oversquare motors more torque, (but not always). Smaller displacement motors turn more RPM, mostly due to less reciprocating weight and shorter strokes and bigger displacement motors make more toque. A light car can benefit from the RPM and a heavier car needs the torque to get off the line.

Over the years several favorite combinations have gained favor. 301s' are very popular a**** rodders and in the above mentioned post the combination of 4" bore and a 327 crank, (3.25 stroke) gives you a 327. The 283 crank at 3.00 stroke gives you a 301, what Chevy called the 302 so famous in the late 60s' Z28s'. That motor had all the good stuff from the factory and was probably in my opinion, Chevys fineist hour. They can be built for fair money from aftermarket parts and you can get close on the cheap using "recycled" parts today but the origionals that are left are near priceless especially if they have the cross ram intact.

When we discuss SBC in this part of the country it's pretty much taken for granted that all Chevys are the same size physically and when we talk about big or small motors we are discussing displacement. Probably a local thing, I just though I should explain. I know it's fashionable to hammer on SBCs' but they have been my favorite motor since the late 50s' and I'm too old to change now hard as I've tried.

I might add, Everybody pays big money these days for a 327. You can take a dirt cheap 350 block, (4" bore), add a 307 crank, (3.250 stroke), which is generally a give away around here and you have the very desirable late large journal 327. Make that 350 block a four bolt main and you have a better motor than the factory ever made, ( there were no four bolt 327 blocks although you can drill them for both straight and splayed caps), which in most cases is not necesary on the street. A lot of guys don't understand why a love 307s.

 

I think we're all on the same page. And for argument's sake I didn't think Blue One was being argumentative. I also misconstrued the writing as "scaled down". Carry on!

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Wasn't trying to be contoversial at all. It's just interesting how much you can do to the little Chevy. Probably the most interchangable engine ever. Also probably the longist production run.

 

100% agreed!

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Maybe I should have worded it a little different. I'm with you Koz, I think everyone knows that the outer dimensions are the same its what's inside that counts.

 

Koz,
Thanks for the detailed answer. I'm new to sbc and was wondering if I missed something basic. I did

Going back into the shadows to watch the masters and learn something else new.

CBB

 

I almost ended up with an Offy 6x2 myself when I sold my 'Vette 2x4. The guy was offering to trade it straight across. If I didn't need the money, I would have traded it and stashed it for later use.

Do you have a lot of experience with the SBC/early Ford trans combination? It sounds like you do..


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Argumentative ? Not at all. I like the 283 and all, I agree carry on

 

Koz , you'd better FINISH this one !! If I finish MINE first , I'm gonna drive it up to Deer Lake & kick ya in the junk , lol !!

Looks like another cool one in the works out of your shop , BTW .

 

To Texas Speed....

My absolute all time favorite combination. I've put together at least 50 of these over the years, probably 20 of those in the last two or three years. My Dad was building them in the mid to late fifties on a weekly basis so I learned from the master. I have my favorite combinations which I have come to enjoy over the years. If you can find one of the early adapters which uses the Powerglide front ring they are far stronger and have more clutch clearance than the Offy style which is readily available now both at the swaps and new. There is nothing wrong with the later adapter however. This combination has a reputation of being weak which is not exactly true. Into the early 60s' it was the setup to have both at the drags and on the street. You need to drive them differently than you would a Muncie and a 9" but I can't think of a combination anywhere that is as much fun to drive both around town and on the open road. Don't sidestep the clutch at 9 grand and you'll be fine. It feels better with a small inch motor, (more RPM, less torque), in a light car. Anybody who faced off against my blue '31, with a roller cammed, 3x2 292, (0.30 over 283), will have a healthy respect for just how fast this combo is. I could easily pull the front wheels on the street and never broke anything in a 2200 lb. steel roadster. Shifting at 8000 was not unusual for the high winding mouse.

I like the Ford gears with this combination better than the Lincoln ratio, once again no reason just experience. The Chevy has so much guts compaired to a flatty you don't need the Lincoln gears or the added expense to be dangerous. After a ton of debate and virtual weekly changing of rear end gears my favorite in a lighter car is 3.78. This is also one of the most commonly available ratios from the factory for a banjo. The 4.11s' are just a bit to shgort legged for the street and the much discussed 3.54 is a tad anemic out of the hole. You lose a bit of gas mileage with the 3.78's on the open road but it's worth it around town.

I generally use the standard Ford 10" clutch disc along with an early Chevy 168 tooth flywheel and if I can find one, or have the cash at the time to get a new one from Wilcap, '50 Merc pressure plate. This combo bolts right up. It is very easy to drill the Chevy flywheel to take the Ford truck PP as long as you balance the ***embly afterwards. The throwout bearing is stock Ford and the pilot bushing is available from Speedway for $20 to make this work. Other than that just bolt it together.

Anything I missed? You might notice I really like this setup!

 

You gotta stop over and check some of the goings on here. The doors always open and If I don't have a car for Wildwood this year Rose is gonna do a lot worse than kick me in the junk! She's been talking with Lorrena Bobbit on possible solutions.

 

Wow. And I didn't even have to ask.

Still haven't taken the timing cover off to see if I can ID the cam. Might be a 097 since the engine came from an early Corvette guru. Cross yer fingers for me. I was going to ask about the clutch set-up you prefer, but I think I know what I need now.

Thanks!


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