351C in 1946 Ford Coupe Lets consider this the build thread

Hey guys, I tried doing a search on this, didnt really come up with much so Ill post this up with the hope that someone on here has done it all ready.

Car: 1946 Ford Coupe
Frame: Stock
Front End: Fatman IV hub to hub kit
Engine/Transmission : 351C/C6 Trans (out of 72 Mercury Cougar XR7)

I guess what Im looking for is ideas on motor mounts. Pictures of what you guys have. (I looked into the welders series motor mounts which look like they would work)

Also if there is someone here that has done this before, did you end up switching the oil pan to a rear sump? With the fatman kit, the cross member and the oil pan want the same area of space. LOL

I know this is a "traditional" site but I figured its worth a shot.

 

The 351C and the 302-351 Windsor share the same motor mount bolt pattern on the block, so if you can find a motor mount kit for the 302-351 Windsor it should work with the 351C.

A Mustang Motor mount like the one pictured below could easily be adapted to just about any chassis. A piece of tubing cut to length and a long bolt to go through the mount and some flat plate and gussets to go to the frame and your all set.

 

What he ^^^ said is correct. IN my 41, I had to take a big notch out of the crossmember and then box it in to clear the pan.

 

Yea I was curious how many ran the stock pan vs rear sump with that massive cross member in there. The rear sump pans are available from a couple race outfits. There is actually a pan available for guys running these motors in the cobra kits that would work quite well. I did think of notching out that cross member as well, its a good alternative for sure.

A couple of pics of the ride so far.

 

If you need a rear sump pan I think a 4x4 351-M-400 pan will work.

 

^^^ yep

 

Coooooooool......rich

 

77-79 4x4's, and 80-82 up all trucks with 351M/400 had rear sump. Vans too.


Don't forget the oil pickup tube and main cap bolt when you find one.

 

Your motor mounts are here:

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/ford/

 

Yes on the 351M 4x4 Pan, I have a Foxbody Mustang that had a 351C transplant using a modified 351M pan back in the mid eighties.
You could also look at aftermarket 351C pans for foxbody cars, Canton, Milodon, etc....

James

 

I have a C4 on the my 351C...The PO installed a volari clip, But didn't install the engine...it will interesting to work with...I think fabing the mounts and transmission mount will be easier...

 

I guess what I am battling with in my head is the hieght of the motor in the engine bay. I obviously want the motor to be low enough to close the hood, also keep it nice and low for low center of gravity. What I dont like is when looking in an engine bay, your looking way down a void to the engine. Currently I have the motor's pan resting on the cross member with a couple of jack stands in the back. Everything would clear just the way it sits. I just think it needs to be lower. Function before Form I guess is what Im trying to say. LOL

 

Sit the engine in carefully with no pan. If the pump clears, put a notch in the pan or a notch in the pan and a small one in the crossmember.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I think ill go the route of ordering in a rear sump pan. Thinking about where the motor rests now with the front sump, by changing to a rear, it should put the motor in about the right place.

 

I had a '46 Coupe that had a Clevland motor in it for a while. But it was a long time ago and no fatmans stuff was available. Yes I used a rear sump.

Very little help I know, sorry.

 

i have never put a ford in a ford , but with that front crossmember i would think the stock pan would clear

you say you have the motor mocked up......any pictures?

 

Here the set up on my 37 with Heidts IFS - rear sump pan and a narrowed wrecking yard cross member out of a 50/60s Ford truck. Hope this helps.. Your car looks great.

 

Thats a good looking setup! I like the looks of your motor mounts. Nice and clean looking.

Yea I think the best way to go will be to run the rear sump. I do have pics on my phone, ill download em and get them up.

 

Judging by the picture of your frame, here is what I would do. You are somewhat limited as to the height of your transmission output shaft based on the crossmember/X brace set up. This probably keeps the tranny at the right height for the floor aw well.
So I would bolt the motor and trans together, set them in the frame with the trans centered on the rear mounting area you have there. Now raise or lower the front of the motor until you have a desirable angle, generally about 3° front to rear. Now, how is the clearance of your oil pan/pump to the existing crossmember? This will dictate whether a rear sump pan will be necessary and or enough or whether you will need to notch the crossmember as well.
Easy peasy

 

THAT is exactly what I needed to hear! Makes total sense. Thanks!

 

That car is the bitch !! Do you have a build thread on it ??

 

No not yet. I do have a lot of pics. Guess I could start one. I revieved the car with the chop, it also had the rear fenders molded in all ready. I welded up the seam between the inner/outer fender to make it one piece. Put in a rear 4link with an 8" rear end. Front end just buttoned up last week with a fatman stave IV kit with front sway bar and pwr steering rack.

 

This is the direction/end result Im after. I love the color. Nice and classy.

Not sure if Ill run rear skirts yet. I have a friend in town with a long door that has an identical car with rear skirts. Satin black. I want our cars to be different so that everyone wont think its the same car. LOL

 

My 46 has a 351c in it. The part off the frame is homemede square tubing. It was already in the car when I got it. All I know about the mount on the engine is that the bolt drops straight down. Im sure it is all factory ford stuff.
I have the stock crossmember, stock suspension, and I installed a saginaw 525 manual steering box, with speedways long pitman arm.
I have the rear sump bronco pan, and it sets very close to the stock crossmember.
The steering drag link also gets close to the pan, but the long pitman arm, and putting the rod end on the lower side helped with clearance.

I have a pic in my profile.

 

How about some information on your rear setup, looks neat.

 

It was already installed when I got it. From the tag I believe its a mustang 8", and im thinking the leaf springs from the same car??

The u-bolt area had the rubber around it. Maybe someone knows if the mustang had that setup.
It looks like they just cut the frame off a mustang and welded to the 46 frame in the rear. Its a little scabbed up, but I did some work to it so its more solid and doesnt look too bad.
I dont have any detail shots, but I will get ya some if you need.

 

Good looking cars. I wish I had a 46 to rip to school in. LOL So your sons car has a 351C in it with the c6 trans? With stock crossmember? Looks like the firewall is stock too? How the hell did you get it to fit? LOL

 

I need to get some work done today on my other cars, but I will get some closeup shots of the install when I can.

 

Hotroddon, or anyone here, would there be any clearance issues with a C4?...does anyone know off hand?

 

Shouldn't be any clearance issues with a C4, there pretty small.