vibrating gyrating ford 302-- just annoying

It's not the convertor, let me give you a method to try. First you are sure you have the "heavy" balancer, and I'm pretty sure you do, since your vibration is not real severe. I'm looking at an old flex plate, you have 2 of the convertor studs that are on both sides of the weight, run the engine and be sure you know how the shake feels. Now those two studs take the nuts off and put some 3/8 washers on, equal number on both studs, probably 3 will be the limit, you want to be sure the nut goes on all the way. We are adding weight in other words. After you do that run the motor, is it better or worse?? This should help to pin pont it.

 

It being a for it will have studs in the coverter so you cant run it loose not enuf clearance and the starter bolts to bellhousing. Is the flex plate on backwords? Dont think it is even posable. I think if it was a running problem tune up or what ever it would be differant from just reving it up and with a load on it.

 

Sir, you have been very respectful not bashing the builder. I have tried my absolute best not to as well, it wouldn't be fair, not at all. The abuse of the H/V oil pumps is a national level problem in the industry. It is cheap insurance and nothing more. Yes there are times when the H/V pump has a place.

It blew up in my face when you said that you picked out the pump, and I apologize, it wasn't meant to offend you sir. For this I am bowing out, I sincerely wish you all the best, TR

 

Forckig fuds
Missed that sorry 65fordguy

 

I balanced one of these by seat-of-the-pants one time, yeah I know this will open up a BIG ole can of worms, I have lots of can openers!! LOL!! My step son had a '66 Mustang, he blew that engine up, I had a '82 302, heavy balance type that I helped him over haul. We were forced to use the 289 balancer because of the pulleys and so on. I compared the 2, measured the weight and made a weight out of 1/4 steel and it ended up being bolted under 2 of the pulley bolts on the balancer. Did the flex plate the same way, except I deducted weight on the opposite side of the weight, here again by measuring the weights and calculating the difference. He had the small diameter flex plate. It worked, no vibration, smooth all the way up and down. You can do this, I know I'll be getting a lot of messages, BRING IT ON!! LOL!!

 

ahh!.. sounds very doable. I will certainly give it a shot.
Thanks for the tip.. I'll give it a go.

 

I wish you luck, this thread reminds me why I use running "medium milage" used engines in my rods as is, don't rebuild them. don't open them up... just put them in and drive....

 

lol. I learned my lesson. there is always next time.

 

Try it, it should be enough to change the shake, hopefully it will be a little better. I think the plate is your problem. And Fenders you are so right about HELL!! LOL!! And yes 65 ford guy, I have 2 of those trucks, actually 3 if I count the F-350, do you guys have get togethers?

 

well yeah actually ... on fordtruk.com slick60s website.. there is a yearly get together called slickstock it usually happens in kansas I think. other than that there are several get togethers in smaller groups.. ozarkf100 run in branson mo is pretty good.

 

I'm going to get my '61 "anybody" going, will be my new driver!! Pretty good old truck, little rust, only 70 thou on the clock.

 

here a few pics .. this is from dust cover access..you are seeing the side looking towards the front of the truck.

 

dumb question.. as I was told you can't do it.. but is it possible to have it on wrong? or clocked wrong.. or on backwards.

 

No, no and no! It will only go on one way, it has a flange around the crank pilot hole, one bolt hole is off set a slight amount, which guarantees it's on right. It looks like you might have the heavy plate, but I can't say for sure, have you tried the washers yet?

 

not yet... im trying to keep up with an 18 mo old boy and do this! Beds of PU makes a good play pen. lol. I will though.. and you were referencing the 2 on either side of the weight correct? doesnt look like a lot of thread left on those.. but I can always give it a shot... if it has an negative effect I wonder if I can remove weight.. there are washers on those nuts. just wondering. when you said that I remembered that... its only been 6 or so years.. thanks for the refresher there.

 

My first car a, '57 Ford sedan delivery, had a 292 and a Fordomatic. The old trans was never real good and finally in the spring of '70 I changed it over to a 3 speed. VIBRATION, pretty much like the one you're fighting, right at 30 to 35 m.p.h. It would shake the inside rearview mirror, there was a resonance all through the car. I tore that motor down later in the year and took the flywheel down to be balanced, those engines have a "neutral" balance, no weights, man they really took a bunch off to get it right!!

 

Yeah, glad my kids are grown, yes the 2 on either side of the weight, if it helps, go to the other two and remove the washers, that will be like adding them to the "heavy" side. I'll check back later, working on a new wood stove for my shack.

 

The 50oz/inch F/P will also have a large cut out 180* from the welded on counterweight, does yours have this cut out? This should help eliminate some of the guesswork. TR

 

Something looks funny about that flex plate. It looks like the counterweight weld in the first picture extends to the ring gear. Also the radius of the counterweight is too large for its position.

So I wonder if this is not a stock flexplate, and the counterweight has been installed/sized wrong.

To check for the proper location of the counterweight, turn the engine so that the counterweight is at the very bottom (six o'clock) position. Now note where the TDC mark on the damper is. Post this, and I'll mock up an assembly from one of my crank/flexplate/damper assemblies to see if it is in that same position.

 

I posted a pic of thee correct F/P. I see that the O/Ps flex plate looks almost home made because the counterweight does not seem to have a curve or radius, so I somewhat agree with you. It could be the picture I don't know. But ultimately we need to cut out opposite the counterweight. TR

 

broken and worn teeth on the ring gear.seems like it would be a good time to replace anyway.

 

Fairlane Mike ... all I have to say is wow.. I put two decent sized washers on either side.. fired it up.. I would say its 92% better. almost amazing to be honest that something that simple could do that. I may continue to work this out more! maybe not perfect but holy cow.. way better so far. I need to get in it and actually run it a bit to be certain. but sitting in the driveway revving it.. the vibration is VERY minimal right now.

 

amazing thing is that is a NAPA replacement for a stocker.. I see what you are saying about the teeth.. this truck may have about 7k miles on it. like I said earlier if the motor comes out ok.. and its the plate.. im going to invest in an AOD and put my 3.70s back in.. at that point I can put in a new clearly marked 50 oz quality flex plate.. open to recommendations.

 

just added 2 more of the same washers so 4 total.. little better.. still has a small shimmy near the 2k mark where it usually exits and it almost feels the same as when its exiting just a little shimmy. also have the lock washers so I guess 6 washers total.. but only 4 new.. these are thick flat washers I had laying around after I removed the grandpa step boards off my f150.. they are the correct diameter for the bolt. feeling better about this now.

 

Glad he figured it out .

 

well.. I wouldnt say figured out.. but at least I know its a flex plate and not something else. any of these look like a good fit?http://www.summitracing.com/search/...xternal-50-oz-imbalance?keyword=5 0 flexplate I have a c6 now.. wanting to get an aod.. does it matter between them?

 

Mine looks nothing like this.. it looks like
this somewhat.

 

Check this out:

http://www.transmissioncenter.org/classic_mustang_to_aod_conversion.htm

164T 50oz imbalance, right?

I'm thinkin' ya' might need F50 or 55F2 dependin' on yer' budget.

 

X2
Its obviously fucked up in a few ways if adding washers makes it 92% better vibration wise.
That weight looks goofy too.

Even if you change your trans in the future , I'd change the flex plate now.
What about OEM instead of off shore " should be close enough to 50 OZ. just add washers if it isn't" junk ?

 

The B&M flexplate does not have a clear counterweight, at least to me. However, here is a Hays flexplate pictured on the Summit site with no cutout, just a counterweight balanced at 50 oz-in:



Compare that to the counterweight on the suspect flexplate. It certainly appears that the suspect unit has the smaller (28.2 oz-in) imbalance weight.