I would leave the steering box holes out. Most people will have different applications and will do it themselves to suit thier needs.
Since you can't know the exact measurements for the body mount holes without a Henry Ford body, I'd recommend welding a short 3/8" plate on the underside of the rail in each hole location. Then the final user can drill and tap his own hole. If he has a custom location he can drill an access hole into the boxing plate. Don't put any holes in the side of the rails.
If you are building the frames for the model A. the body mount holes will not match the holes in the Stamped Rails that you borrowed because they are designed for a 32 body.
Alchemy's suggestion is excellent...wish I had done it that way when I fabbed my rails. With the plasma equipment you have available, it might not be a bad idea to use this 3/8" plate from the cowl back for model A guys. It would just need a few tacks here and there to hold it for drilling and tapping. Model A bodies have no holes in the perimeter sub rails for body mounting except at the cowl. This way the builder could put body bolts anywhere he wanted.
I'm not in the business for buying a frame, but this thread show again the power of the HAMB. That's what makes this place special!
These guys are dead, that would be perfect for any applications, 32, Model A, Model T or whatever. Your doing a great job, keep going. Flattyv8
Great work & great at***ude Homemadehotrod. Sure enjoying this thread! I rarely ever comment but lurk here daily. My2cents is like what many have said here. An A frame that closely resembles the 32 frame complete with a similar reveal will sale very well. That way you dont have to be 100% correct to an original 32 frame. The 3/8 plate under from cowl line back is a great idea too. I have been collecting a few A bodies for a time when I cut back more on my farming(semi retirement) & can devote my time to building my toys. I know I would sure be interested in buying from you from what I have read here so far.
thanks guys.i think i know what you are talking about but i want to make sure, do you mean welding the 3/8 plate to the top 2" strip (top cap) before i put it on the frame. that would be an excellent idea wouldn't it. cant wait to get this next one done. i will put it beside the first one i made and take some pics. so you can see how much it changed using the asc rails. unbelievable amount , that i know. figured out though that i can chop off the frame in front of the reveal and graft in a set of correct ones. probably will just but a backer plate where the graft is for strength,the back ones i am going to do the same . anyone have some good pictures of the rear crossmembers the guys are using. would like to see how hard it would be to fab a set. thanks again for all the help guys
ok. one more thing. i know everyone said NO PAINT. but im going to paint the first one so you guys can see one finished. i know im going to have to grind it off in spots later but thats ok. what color should i paint it. i was thinking either like a dark yellow or sublime green. what do you think, open to suggestions
Black is nearly impossible to photograph so avoid it and any other REAL dark color. It doesn't show details in photos, but can highlight ANY imperfection. Light colors tend to show too little definition. A good, high gloss medium color (red?) may be your best bet. I really think you'll do yourself a disservice by painting it, as guy who are building cars want to see what's under the paint. We want to see weld quality, attention to detail, fit, etc. That's REAL important. If I were looking at a painted frame my first question would be "What's he hiding?" Not that YOU'RE hiding anything, but let ME be the one who smooths, bondos, primes, blocks and paints it... unless you have 10 other frames for me to look at and direct me toward a painted one saying, "This is how it can look finished."
i guess that was my intent. i was going to photo/ picture do***ent through the whole process and then have a painted one. it was just an idea i guess but if its going to hurt me in the long run i dont think ill do it
if anything at all just prime it gray or red oxide but I agree bare steel is nice so you can see everything
Model a cross member nice if you want to show off a nice vintage halibrand quickie haha the other is a stock 35-40 most guys will flatten them to get the rear a little lower
so should i fab a mostly flat rear cross member??? do i put a little drop in it in the center. 1 or 2 inches?? heather said hi 19-c
I think rear cross members are going to be something that is personal to each build. Might have some that want the model a some want something more like a 32 or 40 ford crossmember others may just want a piece of tubing welded in for coil overs. I guess what I am saying is that its going to be hard to predict what people will want. I am using a model a rear in mine only because I am using a model T sping so I can expose the quickchange in the rear.
I think you would be safe with using the model A style front cross member and tubing in the rear. maybe others may disagree. Cant wait to see pics!
i wouldnt paint, and i would also do custom work, there is a demand out there for things such as mounting a ford 9" in tri 5 chevs just for example or ladder bar suspension etc
The suspense is killing me. Pics please pics please haha. Just teasing ya Jim I know you're busy and have a job other than hanging out on the hamb all day like us haha Im excited to see your changes
i have all the new parts cut. will probably start on them tomorrow night and hopefully finish them on saturday evening. couldnt do it tonight. wife had a doc appt. had to take care of the kids. just got home from work actually
ill put the new pics on here sunday if i can find someone to help me with them. put the asc rails in and adjusted my jig a little. not too bad, i was only off on the contour in a couple places. one in front and one in back. both sides of course. i put the reveal in, kind of followed what flthd31 did on his. they dont look too bad. i think they will be better once i get them welded and ground smooth. my son is going to finish weld them tomorrow while i work on a flatter front cross member. all in all i think they look pretty good.
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