I'll search and see what I come up with but I am wondering if we have any good threads on doing your own paint work at home. Prep and spraying etc. With all the talk about how bad the catylized urethane paints are health wise, what (if any) are the safer alternatives for a guy who sets up a temporary spray booth ( poly or a temporary car shelter) or even sprays outside like I know some guys have ? I've seen some good work done by do it yourself types, just not sure I should try it or ante up the $ to have a pro job ? Any info etc., post away
I've sprayed a couple of sprint and dirt cars. The best time that I have found to spray is first thing in the morning while the dew is still on the ground and low to no wind. Also less bugs One of the best paint jobs I ever sprayed was on a old dirt car under a leanto with a tarp covering one end. It was about 50 deg., misting rain and no bugs, it ended up slick as glass. Everybody gets lucky some times! But as with anything you get what you pay for. 28
I do it in my garage... Im sure its not the best way, but it works for me. Soon as I get done spraying paint out and cleaning my gun I leave the garage for the rest of the day. Let everything settle down a while. When I go back in I open the overhead and stick my big squirrel cage fan in the door and let it suck out all the old air for a while. Also, the entire time I'm in my shop, from the time I open a can of anything until I shut the door I'm wearing my paint respirator, and most of the time wearing nitrile gloves, long sleeves and long pants As 28 said, early in the morning seems to work best if you have good temps, calmer and less bugs if you do it with an open door.
You can still buy lacquer paint, the best bet for the home job, and a lot safer than urethane. Colors may be limited but plenty are available. Also any screwups can be easily fixed with lacquer. The drawback is that the paint contains no lead which helps the paint stick so prep and cleanliness are vital. Use good primer and let all the paint coats cure before moving on.
What kinda of paint job are you planning on doing?,,is it just going to be a primer job or like a single stage paint? HRP
Following along. Some day soon i'll be doing this also and i dont want to pay the outrageous prices of some painters. If i screw it up at least its MY screw up and i'll have to fix it.
Painting in a garage or outside is very doable if you plan accordingly. The above two posts are good advise. I've painted several cars in my shop and use a cope of floor fans under the roll up door to keep the air circulating. If I'm painting a solid color I make sure I have ALL the color I'm going to need up front...I mix everything together so I have no variance in color. This gives me the option of painting the car in sections without having to worry about color shift from section to section. Probably the best advise you'll get as far as safety is concerned is to just read, read, and read. Learn about the chemicals and understand the dangers before you squirt paint. Make certain you have an adequate respirator that covers your full face, full body paint suit, gloves, head sock, etc. Another option...if you've never painted before....that can save you a lot of money and grief in the long run is to seek out a Community College class n your area (if there is one). A lot of education/understanding/practical experience can be gained for what amounts to a very small investment.
Thanks guys. Keep going I'd like a single stage, I did have urethane in mind, Nason or Glasurit something like that. The color is a dark blue, Washington Blue.
I've seen a number of show quality paint jobs done at home so the quality of the job is up to you. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is whether or not your garage is attached to the house. You would be putting your families health at risk by painting a car in an attached garage along with some attached garages having a gas water heater in the garage that might cause real problems with paint fumes. Plus if the house smells like paint your significant other isn't going to be a happy camper by any means. That is more important to think about than the quality of paint you can do in the home garage. In the early 70's two kids in the club I was in in Waco, Tx painted their 46 Buick 4 door black lacquer out doors under a tree with the direction of Laddie Segrest. You would swear that that car had been painted in a top paint shop. It can be done.
This.... Was painted here.... Hot Rod Flatz dark blue. Not the best paintjob but the first I've done in over 16 yrs and only my third ever. No dirt in it, though.
My garage is a 2 car separate from the house. It's heated by a sealed heat exchanger radiant tube heater that takes combustion air in from an outside vent on the back of the garage so it is not affected by fumes inside.
I think one of the biggest issues will be how are your neighbours (if you have any close by). The last thing you want is to piss them off or have them calling the authorities on you because you are stinking up the neighbourhood. P.S. I always thought you were in Calgary (not sure why). Obviously closer to or in the Edmonton area.
Does NAIT not offer anything in the way of edumacation? And I know there's an outfit here in Calgary that rents booth time, maybe something similiar in Edmonton? Or are you not right in Edmonton?
I saw that on your other thread, you are the man I'd haul my car down to you but I understand you are not doing any more. That obviously wasn't your first barbeque. I can weld fine but have never painted anything except from a spray can and don't know anything about prep You sure you don't want to finish the body and paint on my 26 RPU ? It's only a tiny car The paint on that coupe looks awesome. Did I ask you about the color code you used ? Larry.
I do my paint in my driveway. I just wear a respirator and I use a turbine powered HVLP system. Very little overspray.
All i got to add, after all the other good advise here, is that its very satisfiying to be able to say you did it yourself. Its easier than you think. Prep work is the key,
No night courses at NAIT. SAIT apparently is doing it to try to stay in business. NAIT does strictly apprenticeship day classes now. I think I'm on my own if I want to learn and do it.
I have done some painting. Last one I hired the best and got exactly that. However I still want to do the next ones. I used 3 stage and hvlp, found it much easier than the old enamel. I will enjoy following this along!
For a first time, the tractor-enamels if you can mix the color you're looking for, as easy, forgiving, (masking tape loops will pull a 'run' off) and lowest in cost. The higher cost urethane paints and catalysted forms mean you best read up, cover all skin, eyes, get positive air supply, and get the hell out for 12+ hours. $400 and up, costs of this matl. Many good threads here with; Pimpinpaint and EarlShwieb(?) among others.
For all the pre paint cleaning, putting up plastic, buying fans ( which may or may not be a dangerous thing to use), and the aftermath cleaning, and such, I would recommend just seeing if a local shop will rent you a booth for a few hours. I've done it in the past, for relatively little money, for all the trouble.
That's a very good idea, I just went and looked up spray booth rental and found one less than 25 min away from me and it looks terrific! Here's a link for those who want to see....it looks like it might be a franchise deal. http://www.sprayboothrental.com/ A pic of their booth... They also offer a sandblasting booth and bead blasting areas.
Ever heard of the $50 paint job? Started on a Mopar board and went around the world, lots of people have done it with success. Basically, painting a car with enamel and a foam roller. 2 coats, wet sand with 600, 2 coats, wet sand with 800, 2 coats wet sand with 1000 buff and wax. The first guy used Tremclad, the Australians suggested yacht paint has a better shine, is more durable and is made for brush or roller application. You can use auto paint too. Since none is wasted as overspray 2 quarts will paint a car. Avoids overspray gucking up your garage, lung damage, and calls to the police by the neighbors. Does a good job if you are willing to do the work. Will only work with straight enamel or lacquer, no metallics or fancy stuff. For a traditional hot rod you can have a paint job as good as anything they had in the 40s or early 50s.
My first post, other than intro. Lots of good info. I found that blowing the car and paint space out with a good electric leaf blower will minimize trash in your paint. Blow off car outside. Leaf blower blows harder than any paint gun. Hit low high and cracks and seams. I hung 6mil plastic from ceiling to floor. Left door open. Blow out, wait 20 min repeat. Move car in Blow everything down. close door. Repeat in 20 min. You would be shocked how clean it will be. Due to space limitations, I do body work and paint in the same bay. I set up the tarp before the body work. Keeps the dust localized. Sweep , then start the leaf blower.
Just wondering if anyone has painted a car in their garage using a 3 stage turbo unit? Painting in your garage with a turbo unit keeps the over spray to a minimum and you use a lot less paint. Jimbo
A couple of steps I forgot to add to my job, more about the finish than yourself... I dust my garage down the day or two before I paint, so what doesn't go out can settle down. Also have a large antique fire extinguisher that I can charge with water and blast down my floor to keep from tracking dust, of course a garden hose works fine for this too, but not so well in the winter) Done a handfull of base/clear jobs for motorcycles in my garage and some single stage. This week I'll be doing some base/clear work on my unibody truck. p.s. my neighbors are pretty cool with it, I dont think most of them know whats going on.
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