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1957 Chevy 235 onto 1950 Powerglide?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JVK54, Mar 6, 2013.

  1. JVK54
    Joined: Jul 19, 2010
    Posts: 479

    JVK54
    Member

    Will a 1957 Chevy 235 just bolt directly onto a 1950 Powerglide? I'm thinking yes, but not finding anything definitive on the search here or google. Thanks!
     
  2. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Yes. Bolts right on, same as the original engine.
     
  3. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,992

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    You'll have to swap your original front mounting plate to the '57 engine.
     
  4. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    Other than the mounts, the later waterpump is a little longer; which can be modified.
     
  5. Lone Star Mopar
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 4,171

    Lone Star Mopar
    Member

    Yes but I believe there's an adapter that goes between the 2. It's a stock part but if you originally had a 3 speed the adapter plate won't be there.
     
  6. JVK54
    Joined: Jul 19, 2010
    Posts: 479

    JVK54
    Member

    Nope..It's a 2 speed automatic.
     
  7. HamberHead
    Joined: Apr 14, 2012
    Posts: 10

    HamberHead
    Member
    from Cedarburg

    I am in the process of putting a '62-235/pg in a '50 chevy 1/2 ton. You may want to consider the same motor/tranny combo due to the lifters, oiling, and HP improvements. The PG might eat up a few more HP from your engine than the stick did. Hope it helps!
     
  8. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL


    The '57 235 engine the OP is using is essentially the same engine as your '62 235.....all the improvements were made by '54 models. The only difference is the transmission on a '50 PG vs '62 is not self shifting between low and hi......but both a cast iron PG's.

    Ray
     
  9. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,419

    'Mo
    Member

    Whatever, your starter will have to match your flywheel. (Different teeth.)
     
  10. JVK54
    Joined: Jul 19, 2010
    Posts: 479

    JVK54
    Member

    So, I might need to use the starter our of my 50 235 that I'm swapping out?
     
  11. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,992

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Yes. 6V and 12V don't mix with 235 flywheel/starter combos.
     
  12. JVK54
    Joined: Jul 19, 2010
    Posts: 479

    JVK54
    Member

    Sorry Heathen but I beg to differ. I'm already running a 12v conversion. Ya just dont want to crank the heck out of it and it's fine. I know a lot of guys say you'll destroy the flywheel teeth. But plenty of others , like me are running this set up with no problems. I was fine at lunch yesterday
    [​IMG]
    I did run into some difficulty at a parent -teacher conference later in the day though..One of the nuns went after me with a ruler screaming something about hoodlums who park their jalopies in front of the school the wrath of God and eternal damnation....and it started fine before I got sent to detention
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2013
  13. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,992

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    I was talking about trying to run a 12V starter with the 6V flywheel or vice versa....the tooth count isn't the same.
     
  14. JVK54
    Joined: Jul 19, 2010
    Posts: 479

    JVK54
    Member

    So if I run my old starter off my 50 235 set up on the"new" 57 235 onto the 50 Powerglide I should be good...no?
     
  15. 'Mo
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,419

    'Mo
    Member

    The 6 Volt flywheel has 139 teeth. The 12 volt flywheel has 168 (i.e., finer teeth). The 6 volt starter will work fine on 12 volts, but will not mesh with the later (12 Volt), fine tooth flywheel. You need to match the starter to the flywheel you use.
     
  16. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    '57 235 into '50 car with 'glide:

    reuse everything behind the motor including starter and flexplate.

    Drill 2 holes in the front motor plate so it will work with the stock '50 front mounts.

    Buy a water pump adapter plate so you can reuse the '50 water pump, balancer, hoses, etc... and not have radiator clearance issues.

    Done.
     
  17. JVK54
    Joined: Jul 19, 2010
    Posts: 479

    JVK54
    Member

    Thanks Gents!
     
  18. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    Or you can press the pulley mounting hub back (towards the engine) on the newer water pump and cut off the excess shaft. I usually use a 60's Ford (shallow) pulley and everything works fine. With no adapter. I would imagine that the earlier water pump is harder to find, it you needed to buy one.
     
  19. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    While this is certainly doable, it is not the best solution. The water pump will be too low on the radiator, the hoses are the wrong size, and you have a cobbled wear part.

    He has everything he needs, he just needs to spend $40 on an adapter plate and drill/tap two holes.

    New early style pumps are available from rockauto and O'reilys or most any parts store.
     

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