57 inline 6 235..Popping,Sputtering

Hey!...really good to see some of you guys from last night come around again...and more than happy to have you latest posters too. The more the merrier. You guys help to keep me from sending Sloppy down the wrong path...lol. All input is appreciated. We'll get 'im fixed up. We did have fun last night. And without getting all sappy, I love teamwork...makes me feel good. Notice we've had basically no drama on this thread? Just good times pitching in to help...the way it should be.

I sent Sloppy a PM this morning. Turns out I don't work today, so I'll be here off and on through the day and this evening. I told Sloppy to come around when he's ready to hit it again.

In the meantime, we can see about adding more pertinent info.

For all practical purposes, we're done with the points and spark-plugs. Seems he had or has a vacuum leak too, and the carb is running rich. At this point, it's still impossible to know for sure what issue or issues are making the engine run badly, but we're taking it step by step. And again, I'm depending on you guys to help keep the process going in the right direction. He said it ran better last night, but it's still sputtering under a load.

Points of interest:

I told him to get a rubber vac advance line. I understood it to be missing. But then he said it has a steel line. Though he did say he hears a sucking sound.

You guys suggested a bad condensor. Good point. We'll have him check for a good snappy blue spark...or weak and pink/orange.

Check timing and that the vac advance is working.

Check firing order.

The plugs were a little black and fuzzy. He cleaned and re-gapped them. I suspect that somebody adjusted the carb (richer) to compensate for the vac leak, which will make the engine run a little better, but still foul the plugs. And then it starts running crappy again of course.

Those small-base Rochester 2G carbs are really prone to vacuum leaks at the base. We'll have him spray around with carb cleaner to find the vacuum leak.

I figure, deal with the spark, advance, vacuum leak and fuel mixture first. Then the valves...though I don't think the valves are the problem. He said the valves are a little "ticky", but loose is better than tight.

What else, guys?

 

I'm gonna leave the valve adjustment procedure to you guys that know how to do it right. Truth is, all I ever do is adjust them with the engine running 'til they just stop ticking, or just a tad loose. But I've been told that's not correct. Sloppy does have feeler gauges.

 

Yes..at ide its sits still..and when I rev..It seems to turn the Dizz..Correctly..

 

All the parts are new...Except the Dizzy itself..

 

okay at least we know that it is operating, advancing

check for leaks with parts cleaner can if you got one.
spray done carb and all vacuum fittings
if idle rises when you spray somewhere then you found a leak..
keep us posted

 

also spray on intake manifold for possible gasket leaks..

 

All Intake and Exhaust. are new...Im reposting some pics..To help out for new guys..

 

More Pics

 

pic..

 

Hi Sloppy! Here we go...

Advance is working. Good.

As B13 said, the next thing we need you to do is to spray around with the carb cleaner and listen for a change in rpm...the motor will rev slightly higher for a second or two. Spray especially around the carb first. Dont use the straw at first...broad strokes. Then if you detect a possible leak, you can put the straw in the carb clean nozzle and get more specific until you zero in on it. Spray the base of the carb, the fittings for the vacuum advance line, etc. And while your at it, even though the exhaust is new, give it a spray too. Also spray the vacuum advance line...the whole length of it, including the fitting at the distributor. Also run your hand along the vac advance line, feeling for suckage.

You mentioned a vacuum leak last night. Said you could hear it. Did you find it? Fix it?

 

OK.. Im going out to try to adjust the carb..I didn't know that screw was to adjust the mix..I thought it was just for the Vacuum line..I may have that messed up...BRB

 

The Vac..Noise I hear was from that inlet on the carb. I don't know whats sapposed to be on it..so I put that little blue cap on it.. otherwise it wont start at all..Ive looked at tons of pics..cant find one..with that vac line on the carb...

 

Do the spray first. If you have a vacuum leak, you won't be able to correctly adjust the fuel mixture. Though you could do as I said previously...with the engine not running, turn the screw in til it stops. Use a light touch...don't crank down on it and damage the needle. Then turn the screw out counter clockwise 2 1/2 turns. That'll be good enough for now. Then start the engine and spray to check for vacuum leaks.

 

The vacuum port you plugged is on the carb?...not on the intake? The only thing other than the vacuum advance is the vacuum accuated wipers. But the fitting for that is on the intake...unless you've got a combination fuel pump/vacuum pump...which is the fancy way to run the vacuum wipers. If the fitting is on the carb, I think it's just an unused extra port. Good that you plugged it...as long as it's for sure leak-free...so spray there too.

 

Correct..the Carb has a very small in/outlet..Vac..and the manifold has a larger Vac hole..that one has a Plug in it..the wipers aren't hooked up..

 

Get a dwell meter for the points. They are cheap and a nice way to double check your work.

 

Yea check for leaks first
Even if intake is new it may not be sealing correctly

 

You all out of carb cleaner yet?...lol.

 

Sprayed all areas of..Carb..Vac lines, and intake..no idle changes...

 

Set the timing yet?

 

Checked the spark, to rule out the condeser?

 

After you've thoroughly checked for vacuum leaks, and you're pretty sure you found none, go ahead and with the engine still running, turn the mixture screw in 'til the engine just starts to slow and stumble and then back the screw out. Do it a couple of times to find the sweet spot...basically the highest rpm, and running as smoothly as you can get it with the mixture screw.

Then we're gonna have you check the quality of the spark at the spark plugs. Shut the engine down. Pull a spark plug wire...you choose which one. Pull the boot back a bit to expose the clip. Re-attach it loosely...don't push it on all the way...just so it stays. Get a pair of rubber handle pliers if you've got it. Start the engine. Now use the pliers to pull the sparkplug wire and hold the terminal close to the tip of the sparkplug...about 1/4" away...until you see an arc. Notice the color and even the sound of the arc. Is it nice and snappy and blueish? Or is it kind of weak and orangeish pink? If it's good, then fine...put the wire back on. If it's weak, you've probably got a bad condensor. The condesor is inside the distributor...a little cylindrical metal thing with a short wire attached to the points. Easy and cheap to replace. Even though the points are new, you didn't put in a new condensor did you? Or maybe they came as part of the points?

 

No Dwell...

 

I believe this is the firing order for your engine...

 

OK..Gonna do that now..NO leaks I could find...all Parts in Dizz are new..

 

I've seen bad condensers right out of the box, no harm in checking.

 

Remember though that the wires may have been moved around at some point and #1 on the distributor may not be in the same place as the diagram.

 

Good call, check for TDC (top dead center) and the start the firing order with the wires using the tip of the rotor for the #1 wire.

 

i didnt really read all the comments but my falcon did the same thing and the vacuum advanced was bad have you checked that at all?