Register now to get rid of these ads!

Bullseye Pick Questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Joe Jackman, Mar 18, 2013.

  1. Joe Jackman
    Joined: May 6, 2012
    Posts: 166

    Joe Jackman
    Member
    from SoCal

    How important a tool is a bullseye pick for metal finishing?

    I just rented the Covell Basic Techniques For Working With Steel DVD and Ron Covell relies on a bullseye pick for raising small low spots where as David Gardner doesn't.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
  2. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,805

    Dave Mc
    Member

    I use mine ALOT ! I made some different heads for it,I made one from a Acorn Style Lugnut which is very handy also added a return spring on the hinge ( used a Ford Mustang Headlamp spring ) the original Bullseye picks had one but the new one I bought in the early 70's did not have that option,also added a stop so it won't hit too deep ( not sure what they're selling now) I can post a pic if interested
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
    -Brent- likes this.
  3. Joe Jackman
    Joined: May 6, 2012
    Posts: 166

    Joe Jackman
    Member
    from SoCal

    Interested. Please do. Thank you!
     
  4. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 8,137

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    I consider a bullseye pick a 'must' for metal finishing. they aren't too expensive and are very helpful. Eastwood carries them, if you're looking.


    Malcolm
     
    Dave Mc likes this.
  5. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    The other guys basically said it all. It will become one of the most used tools you have if you are trying to metalfinsh.
     
    Dave Mc likes this.
  6. BarryA
    Joined: Apr 22, 2007
    Posts: 643

    BarryA
    Member

    Handy (though I don't own one) but easily abused if used wrong. Like a sharp pointed pick-hammer the first thing you should do is kill any sharp point before you use it - they will destroy perfectly good metal in no time....
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
    Dave Mc likes this.
  7. Joe Jackman
    Joined: May 6, 2012
    Posts: 166

    Joe Jackman
    Member
    from SoCal

    Do others agree that the sharp point on a bullseye pick needs to be ground down?
     
    Dave Mc likes this.
  8. Rods & Relics
    Joined: Oct 7, 2007
    Posts: 280

    Rods & Relics
    Member

    That depends on "what" you use it on & "how" you use it.
    Years ago when I first started making them here in Oz, mine had a bit more sharper point than how I make them these days. I in fact keep an older/sharper point one to use when needed, but I mainly use the newer slightly blunter style. I changed mine for the reason that anyone new to metal finishing found the slightly blunter style much easier to use. it is much more forgiving. (I think some of it also comes down to personal preference though)
    I also have a much blunter one again, that I will use on Ally.
     
  9. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,805

    Dave Mc
    Member

    IMG_0547.jpg IMG_0548.jpg IMG_0549.jpg IMG_0535.jpg

    Here are the Pic's as you can see I have rounded the original TIP provided with the tool as mentioned by several others here ,1st pic = the Attachments I made for it,2nd pic = shows the added Mustang Headlamp Bucket spring and Stop Screw (Sharp TIP pointing at the STOP Screw ) 3rd pic = Shows fully closed position ,any deeper thru the Dovetail can cause damage/stretching metal....... all the changes I have made to my BULLSEYE are copied from an original which was produced before the War that my Dad had and I learned to use..the original company had went out of business when BONDO became the norm, The Company or patent and name was reintroduced sometime late 60's or early 70's I think ( not sure ) @ Tulare,Calif.
    When you use the BULLSEYE to Pick up a low spot ,you don't cut the metal right away as you would create thin spots, after Picking up the Low Spots I use a Slapping File or Hammer with the proper DOLLY To finish smoothing the spot I'm working,then block sand with 80 grit to show progress,when the surface is showing 80 grit scratches evenly,then I use the Body/Vixen File to prove the area is finished.( Last pic = some 37 Chevy Sedan Fenders I am currently working on )
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2025
  10. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Joe,

    A guy can do alot of damage to a panel with a sharply pointed pick, especially if that panel has been worked before or over ground/filed:eek:

    Probably best to get a good handle on your on dolly method, and the use of the corner of the dolly to raise low spots so you don't leave ''pecker tracks'' in the underside of the panel. In high end metalwork, the underside of the panel has to look as good as the exterior surface. A good show judge will knock off points for metal/paint butchery!

    The old boy who taught me metalfinishing insisted a Vixen file was never used to remove paint, or over file a panel, only for low/high location of the metal, and NEVER for use on plastic filler.

    A ''Bulls Eye'' pick is a good tool used properly, but becomes of limited utility in vehicles built in the late 50's/60's when most construction moved to box-type/limited access. The use of a pry pick/pry rods then came into play to raise low areas, a job nowdays done with a ''studgun''.


    " Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
     
  11. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,805

    Dave Mc
    Member

    IMG_0519.jpg Don's 48 Chev 002.jpg six pics 004 (640x512).jpg six pics 003 (640x512).jpg IMG_0520.jpg Here are some more pic's 1st is the slapping / Shrinking Files I mentioned the others are some rehabilitated fenders for a 48 Chev P.U. and a 33 Fordor Body ( which eventually ended up as my avatar ) and you CAN use the same method on today's HSS Sheetmetal , just have to keep in mind it is thinner metal than the older cars.....last pic is of my Late Father in his 80's using his old orig. Bullseye
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2025
  12. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,771

    alchemy
    Member

    I've had a mid-size Bullseye for a decade, but only really began using it on my current project. Be aware it takes a lot of hammer/dolly before a guy is even ready for the Bullseye. I see the Bullseye as a fine-tune instrument to get that last 1/32" deep dimple out. Not for removing dents.

    Last year I was able to purchase a prehistoric set of large and small Bullseye's in their original wooden case. My other mid-size should fit right in the empty slot. Happy camper. Now I just need to learn to master these things.

    Patience.
     
    Dave Mc and bct like this.
  13. Joe Jackman
    Joined: May 6, 2012
    Posts: 166

    Joe Jackman
    Member
    from SoCal

    Pretty sure I would do much less damage with the blunt tip. :D
     
  14. Joe Jackman
    Joined: May 6, 2012
    Posts: 166

    Joe Jackman
    Member
    from SoCal

    Super helpful, Dave! Thank you so much for taking the time to post this and your technique which I will adopt.
     
  15. I love mine.......but I always feel like I'm cheating;)
     
  16. Joe Jackman
    Joined: May 6, 2012
    Posts: 166

    Joe Jackman
    Member
    from SoCal

    Pimpin,

    Do some people use a technique of over stretching dents and then use a shrinking disc to lower the high spots rather than a bullseye pick to bring up the low spots?
     
  17. Joe Jackman
    Joined: May 6, 2012
    Posts: 166

    Joe Jackman
    Member
    from SoCal

    What your wrote certainly puts the proper use of a bullseye pick in perspective. Thank you!
     
  18. I don't think pimpin will mind if I jump in here;
    I use the technique on areas that have been overworked in the past. When the last guy got over zealous & left it really lumpy or "pecker marked". Generally these areas are work hardened. If you don't force cool the metal you can take some of the work hardening out of the overworked steel. Sometimes I"ll cycle planishing and disk, but it's still more a combination of bringing up the lows(relative to the surrounding area) and planishing. Then shrinking to return the crown.
     
  19. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal


    I've seen that done, and also watched guys use a sharp 24 grit closed coat disc on a 7'' or 9'' and disced the panel hard. The heat from the grinder pass raised lows up, then the panel was cross filed to level it up and find remaining lows. I've used a torch to raise lows in a panel too. The torch method works well on damaged roof panels where you heat the low, and watch it come up, and stop jus short of normal contour, then hit it with the file. Sorry, the last bit had nothin to do with your original post on Bullseye Picks:eek:


    '' From a deadbeat to an old greaser, here's thinkin of you "
     
  20. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,805

    Dave Mc
    Member

    IMG_0570.JPG IMG_0569.JPG 37 Chevy Front Fenders ready for Catalyzed Urethane Primer
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2025

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.