Features Traditional Track T or Bucket Build Cost Under $5000??

Japar here on the HAMB makes 27 roadster bodies with opening doors his glass shop is in R.I. his prices are very good also I bought my 27 bucket body with opening doors from him he sells T frames also.

 

Love the build thread and downloaded my free T-Bucket plans. Can't wait to see how this turns out, I think I found my next project! Is there any more benefit to glass rather than steel body other than weight?

 

I built this Fiberglass 27 a couple of years ago but my budget went out the window quick because I bought new tires and wheels ,radiator(very expensive!) and frame and body(from Total Perf). All totaled about 15k. While the 27 body has more room than a bucket it still was tight inside ,Im right at 6' tall, and always felt like I was half out of the car all the time.
The good thing was it was fast and fun and the closest thing to my bike that I sold to finish the car. It got about the same amount of attention as if I was walking down the street with Pamela Anderson in a bikini. constant picture takers and video cameras going as cars passed by on the road . It even made it into a music video. Even better The paint job cost me $15. lol
Bottom line if its what you really want ,go for it ! its not going to get any cheaper in the future. Hope this is some help -Bill

 

I really like the '27 roadster body also, but it doesn't fit the budget right now.

Awesome work on the paint. You fooled me...It looks just like steel!

What radiator did you use? I'm planning on a 64-65 Mustang. They are relatively cheap and supposedly fit well in the '23 shell.


I'm very close to beginning the build. Just waiting on an email regarding some parts. Hopefully, I'll be making some sparks soon...

 

Bobs66440
Look up member Japar here on the HAMB his shop is in R.I. close enough for you to do a day trip to pick up a body and believe me you will be surprised at the cost and no shipping crating charges woiuld make it a even better deal.I have dealt with him several times now.

 

Ok, thanks for the tip!

 

Look for the 65-66 Mustang radiator if you are using craigslist or any other search function. The 64 1/2 mustangs most people don't know they have one or not. I have found more 64 1/2 Mustangs being offered as a 65 and what was called wrong V8 motor turned out to be the correct motor. I think the early cars had a 270 V8 if my memory serves me right.

Also look for the Falcons of the same years should have the same radiators.

 

Falcon Fairlane and Comet and Maveric used the same radiator Fairmont may have also.You want a V8 radiator I think Ford started the 260 V8 in 62 in the Falcon, Comet and Fairlane I know for sure it was out in 63 I had a 63 1/2 v8 4 speed sprint and the confusion was a lot of guys would later put on the 289 badges also here in Ct. they would not register a 1/2 year car! so 64 1/2 mustangs were registered and titled as a 65. My 63 1/2 Galixy was registered and titled as a 64. I don't know how other states handled the 1/2 year cars.so you can use a Ford product compact car V8 radiator from 62 to about 70 they used the same radiator.

 

I forgot about the other Ford line that would have used those radiators like the Coment.

Yeah 260 was the first V8 in the Mustang. Here the title will say 65 for a 64 1/2 car but a lot of guys do not know by vin #s or small details. The hood is a little different on the lip, the V8 and I want to say headlight buckets may have a different shape. There was something else on the front end that was different.

I wonder if first year Cougars with the 289s will have the same rads?

 

I used an aluminum radiator from Speedway that fit my chopped 32 shell, it was like $600. but enough for a blown sb. I always buy radiators new when I build a car, I dont want any problems when everything else is new. Just put a good electric puller fan on the back with a thermostatic controller and forget about it.
Funny thing about the paint ...nobody, (even body shop guys) ever thought it was a fiberglass car till I told them. One guy at a car show started to argue with me about it and when all my buddies started laughing I took him over to the car and showed him the bottom where you could see the fiberglass mat. His jaw dropped!
Guys even ask me to make their steel stuff look rusty, I tell them sand all the paint off and leave it outside, mother nature will do it for them and she works cheap!

 

I can't believe that's glass. I would love to see how you got that effect. Amazing job for $15! I wanted to keep my truck rusty but painting it is always on my mind. I'll definitely keep this paint job in mind!

 

I'm ordering the frame, body, rear axle (S-10), front axle and some other stuff Monday from Spirit. I really wanted to build/source a lot of this stuff myself, but the prices are so reasonable that it really doesn't pay. There's still a lot of stuff I will need to fabricate and hunt down though.

They are going to build the frame for a 2" lower than normal ride height. This should be a very fun project...

In any case, I have run the numbers every way imaginable and when you add up all the little stuff that you don't think of initially (it really adds up!) I just don't see how I can keep the budget under $5000. Not in the time frame I set for myself and for the car I want to end up with anyway. It will be close, though. And of course it depends what kind of deals I can make in the coming weeks. I'm trying to work a deal for some very cheap wheels and tires now...
I can definitely see it if I had a couple of years to collect parts and look for bargains, but I don't want it to take that long. I would like to have it finished by the end of summer due to space limitations...

Fun!

 

Really cool...can't wait to follow the build thread! (hint,hint!)

 

Very cool and they sell the S-10 rear? I got a price from a guy that has the rear and its everything on it for $250 but not sure on it. I feel like I can find it still a little cheaper.

I can't wait for your build thread when you start it link us to the page. I'm also waiting to hear back from Spirit on a stretched body price. I think they do them 6 inches, 2 in front of the doors and 4 behind them.

What will you do with the dash?

What kind of planes are in store for that? I'm thinking like guges and steering colum.

Also are you going to leave the stock dash in it that is fixed in it or reshape it?

 

I'm getting a used rear from them. They clean off and smooth all the factory mounts and weld on the radius rod brackets. It's complete with R&P, axles, brakes etc., though it may need new shoes and the drums to be turned or replaced. All for $300. That's just a little more that what I can find one locally for that still needs all the work...of course, I have to pay shipping so that adds to it, but they're shipping it with everything else, so it's not much different...

They told me that their body is stretched 5" total. All in the passenger area.
I'll probably just use the dash as it comes unless I decide to get creative and change it or graft a different one in.

I will definitely start a build thread once it's underway...

 

That is a good deal for all of that and it will save you some time on piecing some things together and cleaning up parts and welding it all togther.

Maybe he did tell me it was 5" stretch. I can't wait to see your build and how it comes along.

I'm doing my research on how I want to build and where to go. I will go with either Spirit or RPM for the body if I dont have one made out of metal.

 

The deal on the wheels and tires fell through. They were the wrong bolt circle, but I just scored a really nice Vega steering box on ebay cheap! And so it begins...

 

Awesome score on that! I have found to S10 rear ends that are a great deal but the one for $50 wont deliver and I have no way of picking it up. I'm waiting for the other HAMB member to see if he might know of someone heading this way.

I need to look ofr a Vega steering box. What years? I'm guessing any will work.

I might order the book from speedway on building a T bucket.

 

Built a T last year. Didn't mean to do it, but someone dropped off a mangled body, son in law gave me a 9" axle, guy I worked with gave me a 403 Olds w/ 400 turbo. Bought a damaged alum. radiator on e-bay for $90 (but when it got here it was a new one), used a pile of old .250 wall 1 1/2 x 2 tubing. Basicly was given a lot of crap to build this with. Pulled a set of whitewalls off another project, added some personal touches and wound up with less than $800 in the whole thing. (less tires). I'd post pictures, but I'd catch hell for posting the "rat" thing. It's painted flat o.d.green with a couple of 200 lb bombs for tail lights, military markings, and a 50 cal. machine gun mounted between the seat back and the T gas tank. A real hoot to drive. I'm too old to climb into one of these things so I built it about 4" off the ground and I can just step into it. Yep, they can be built on the cheap and still look decent. Ya just gotta look around for the right stuff. I'm almost 70 and can't seem to get into the groove of spending a load of cash. It's a lot of fun building your own shit. Just make sure it's safe. I've done stuff I'm not really proud of, but I did get over it. Lucky I'm still here to keep doin' what I'm doin. But I wouldn't give it up fer nothin'.

 

You don't have one buddy with a truck that you can put a little gas in his tank and a dinner in his belly and have an adventure? I swear you newer guys just don't use your resorces very well... I was reading earlier in this thread about 300.00 S-10 rear ends? Come on! I just bought one for 100.00 and thought that was nuts! I don't mean to sound like I'm coming down on you, and please don't take this that way. But, if you buy every part out of a catalog, or a full serve wrecking yard, there is no way of building these cars within your budget. What about your local Craig's list? What about other car guys that bought the wrong thing for their car, that would work perfectly in yours? That's how I got my S-10 rear this week. Just saying, do some thinking before opening up your check book or wallet. This stuff doesn't have to be expensive.

Any year Vega will do just fine as well as non-power Monza boxes. I much prefer a reversed corvair my for T-buckets myself though. There has to be a Corvair nut in your area... There is one in every town.

 

You had me from the start! I would love to see pics of the car. I bet the .50 cal is crazy to see. I love the theme you have for the car.

I'm itching bad to get into a T bucket project. I would like to find WWII era training bombs to make into gass tanks. My local surplus shop doesnt get them.

Man you just jumped started my building ideas!

 

Hey no I didnt and dont take it as you coming off on me. To be honest and I'm open about it on a lot of forums. I had a stroke a few years ago and all my friends who said they would be there (even family) walked away. I have not spoken to one friend in ten years. The first 3-4 years I dont remember much but I do remember my parents, grandmother, uncle and my aunt being there for me.

So finding a buddy with a truck I can look around all I want and will not find them. I also have a cousin that is local to me with a truck he may or may not do it and my money is on he wont.

I have found 2 S-10 rear ends one on the HAMB and one on Craigslist. The guy on the HAMB doesnt come this way but maybe I will get lucky and he will have something to do in Harrisonburg. The other rear is for $50 bucks and they are about an hour from me and I have no way of picking it up. I even offered a little extra cash for delivery.

I also wanted to and I am trying to start a car club in my area to build up a good base of friends and get back to what the clubs should be. If people need help with a project we all jump in if we can and help.

When I get out of school and I'm finished in August my build will start, but I'm looking around for parts and collecting as I can if I can.

Sorry OP didnt mean to go on.

 

Sorry, don't mean to be harsh. But I have even spent 18.95 an hour to rent a truck from home depot to get a screaming bargin! Just gotta think outside the box. I hear your situation too, for very different reasons I walked away from my family in the early eighties. Didn't really have too much contact until about '86 or so. But maybe it's time to look at the hot rod thing as a new chance for a new set of friends that are maybe a bit truer to your goals. In those years I was alone and on my own I made my new family of my car guy friends that I met around town by just saying "Hi - bitchin" car". Most of them I still hang out with to this day. And if any needed me I'd be there in a heartbeat. Some of them are members here!

 

I hear you and that is what I'm doing now. The HAMB has been great for that. The local section has a few guys around and near me. I'm trying to net work with them and get a club going.

Tell us about the corvair steering box? I know we have a few of those cars in and around the area. My dad has a few contacts at the local yards so I might find something there.

Also a guy who rebuilds (or used to) cars and sells them might have some of the parts I'm looking for.

Right now I'm working on a deal for a steering wheel. The guy wont sell the one he wants to sell both for $75 so I might end up buying them both and trading the other for some parts.

Do you guys know if any VW steering colums would work in a T bucket? The guy is a VW guy and likes them stock and original. The steering wheels came out of some bugs he is working on and they look like Moon Eye wheels.

 

Since the sixties, the Corvair box has been the main stay of T-buckets when reversed. Reversing one is super simple and cheap with a freeze plug from a parts store and a seal from a bearing shop and a drill press. If ya score one search the H.A.M.B. as I think I have seen a thread about it or feel free to P.M. me.

As far as a column goes, that's another thing you don't need to buy. A chunk of 1 1/2" exhaust tubing, two cheapo 3/4" bearings from Ace Hardware (cheaper still if you go to bearing warehouse!) a chunk of 3/4" cold rolled rod and a Corvair box coupler from Flaming river through speedway. Done - Oh, spend 25.00 on a quick release too. If you have more than 75.00 in the whole mess you spent too much. You don't need signals on a T-bucket, but if for some reason you think you do, negotiate with the guy you got the steering box from and grab the signal switch too. I find even in fast paced WAY congested Phoenix, most people see a hand signal long before they pay attention to a blinker in a visible car like a T-bucket simply because sometimes they are trying to figure out just what the hell you are doing!

As far as the VW wheels, good chance they are a typical "Grant" type three hole adaptor type and will fit anything including the quick release I mentioned in the last paragraph. On the two wheels the guy has, how about getting him down to about 60.00 for both and putting the one you don't want on that auction sight? Might end up with the one that turns your crank for free!

 

Thanks and I will look up the Corvair box on here. Also do you have any pictures of your steering colum? I would like to see how it works. That is a good idea and one that I didnt think of.

I have an old iron bar from weight lifting I wonder if I can make a steering colum out of it?

I'm not sure but I think on kit built cars in my state will have to have turning lights.

I was thinking of doing two headlights if I can find them and make one a blinker or something.

Keep the info coming and I will keep searching. The OP is on his way of doing a build and this thread has been great learning tool for me.

Forgot to add I will make it a quick release wheel. I've read that guys like that on the T's make its easier to get in and out of.

 

I don't know about being a "new guy". This may be my first T Bucket build, but it ain't my first rodeo building cars and saving a buck when I can. If you read earlier in the thread, you will see that I bought a $1000 donor car that I can hopefully part out after pulling the engine and trans and end up paying no more than a few hundred dollars for my drive train. And I just bought a $120 Vega box for $52. And I'm looking at used wheels and tires. That's definitely not ordering out of a catalog. Am I ordering some stuff from a catalog? Yes, because in some cases the stuff is so cheap it just doesn't make sense to build it yourself.

Maybe you have $50 S-10 rears growing by you, but not here. Believe me, I don't like spending cash unless I have to. I have been scanning through craigslist ads until my head spins looking for bargain S-10 rears. There are some about an hour or two away, but as I stated earlier, they want big money and they still need all the work and the brackets welded, etc. Plus I have to burn gas to go get them. Based on that, getting a rear ready to go for $300 is a bargain. Plus it has all the brake parts still attached. Sure, if I waited a month or three, I may be able to find one cheaper, but I'm looking to get this project started. And by the time I drive to get it, clean it up, buy the brackets, weld it, etc., etc. I'll probably have close to that into it anyway. Plus, in NY you have to have legit receipts for everything in order to register the car, so getting parts from an established outfit makes the whole process go smoother later on.

 

Don't sweat it. It's an open forum and I welcome all input.

I spoke to Bob, the owner, yesterday and he said he added slightly under 5" and spread it out over the entire body so the proportions didn't get out of whack.

It depends on the diameter of the tubing. You want one that's a fairly standard size so it's easy to find bearings, dash and floor mounts for. Also, you want to use a standard shaft material with ends that accept the popular steering couplers.
Or, if you don't want to track down all the stuff yourself, there's always this option. Not a bad price, and it's already got the quick disconnect installed...and free shipping to boot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Co...hash=item19ce7313e0&item=110837830624&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks I will check that. I've been looking around and seeing whats out there to buy that wont break the bank. I really think my build wont get started until late summer.

The body stretch doesnt sound to bad and it might be what I go with. It might not seem like a lot of extra room but I bet its a good difference.

Are you going to run your steering colum through the firewall? That is what I want to do and not up through the floor.

Also I saw Rod & Custom is doing a build for their magazine and will have it in the magazine this summer. Its called the Traditional T and if you are on facebook they are showing some pics.

 

Maybe you should build a hot rod pickup truck-I'm amazed you don't have ONE friend with a truck. I can only think of one of mine who DOESN'T have one!