1934 Ford Vicky Build

Been working on making the rear corners. I got one side pretty close.

 

I finished the other corner, and im in the process of welding the seams together.

 

I finished welding the seams on the back panel. Now I have to start trimming it to be welded on the car.

 

Skills..

You have them.

 

Keep up the good work!!!

 

Thanks guys,

So I got the panel all trimmed and tacked into the car. Now its the time consuming process of welding all the seams. But at least I don't have to try and weld the lower seams anymore cause I wouldn't have any access now.

 

Real cool seeing all the pics of how you are going about it. Nice work!!

 

Great job. I just started an appreciation page for ALL 1933-34 Ford body styles. Feel free to all of you to check it out an add your favorites pictures and projects
www.facebook.com/Model40Fan-Tastic Page----It's really taking off with a lot of interest

 

Been working on welding up the seams.


In these pictures I have tack welds spaced about every half inch to inch apart. Once I have that all the way across I sand down the tack welds level on both sides.





Then I start welding inbetween the tack welds, skipping every other tack weld. After each short weld I make sure to hammer the weld flat. That stretches out the weld seam, and relieves the warping.

 

Smoooooth !!!

 

Only if I had a TIG machine..

 

Great vision. Nice work with the bucks.

 

I got the seam all welded up on the passenger side.

 

Great skills! Would it not have been easier to start with a regular sedan instead? The 34 Vi toria is a unique body style, leaving the old twenties style behind looking forward to a more streamlined design of the thirties.

 

It would have been a lot harder to start with a standard tudor. The shape of the roof, rear beads all would have had to be changed. Where the 34 vicky body had all that the way we wanted, just changing the rear panel and lower bead was all we had to do.

 

Every Time Someone puts a IFS under a 34 and older God kills a Puppy.

Love your metalwork on the body. Truly an inspiration. Hope the owner decides to give it a nice mild chop.

Not to dwell, but I just have to say it, and not that my opinion matters, but when I see an original chassis given all the cool stuff 33-34's had, get rolled out in favor of aftermarket Mustang II crap it make's me want to freaking puke. I really admire the work you do, and I've worked for a street rod shop, and know that sometimes you have to build what the customer wants.

 

I agree with you.

 

I don't give a Rats Ass about the chassis, I just enjoy seeing great bodywork being done. Bob

 

As amazing as this metalwork is, i´m wondering more and more why the owner felt that he needed to start with a Victoria - if he knew in advance that he was going to cut something up to this extent, then why not just start with a Tudor? Oh, well, it´s his money and it will be a nice car at the end, that´s for sure.

 

You hit it on the nail, its the customer's car and if that's what he wants then were going that direction. But its the sheet metal work on this one that i'm enjoying a ton.

 

Everyone has their opinion, but i'm with the owner on the fact that the 34' Vicky is more of a restorer car than a hot rod. I have seen one done stock body that I liked. But by doing this conversion all were changing is the goofy rear panel that extends way beyond the fenders. And by making it look more like a 33' Vicky its so much more appealing.

But if we started with a Tudor like I did with my other 33' Vicky conversion its twice or more the amount of labor involved. And where he already had this car it was a no brainier. And i'm hoping that others that have a 34' Vicky and aren't happy with its looks can see there is another option to make it the car they want. I'm keeping track of all my hours on just the conversion so I can give an accurate cost of what this would cost.

 

Been working on making an insert for the roof. It was quite a big panel so I needed some help from a few buddies. We rolled the crown into the panel on my english wheel. Checking the fit back and forth on top of the roof until I liked the way it flowed into the existing curves of the roof.


Here it is with it 3/4 of the way rolled out.





Fitting the way I wanted it to.







Then I used cleco's around the edge to hold the panel exactly where I wanted it. And then when I put the panel back and forth it will go back in the same place.





Once that was done I had to trim out the existing roof panel where the cloth went. Then with that all trimmed exactly where I wanted I laid the insert back on and scribed from the inside where to trim the new roof insert.










Then with that marked I trimmed the insert to the scribe line leaving little tabs for the cleco holes so I could cleco it back onto the roof. Then once the insert was back on I tack welded in between the cleco's until I could trim the tabs off.









I've got it all tacked together where I want it about 1/4" apart. Next is the long process of welding it completely together.

 

Wow that's a long weld. Thanks for the clinic on metal work!

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

beautiful work, you make it look easy!

matt

 

Stellar work, as always!!!

 

Ya still got the rear fenders.

 

I finished up the roof insert.

 

L00kin Reeal Good !

 

I got the new transmission back the other day so I was able to put the engine and transmission together to start mocking it up in the car. With it mocked up the firewall needed to be recessed 3" back so that the engine would be able to slide further to bolt into the engine mounts.

So I first measured the area for the recess and trimmed it out. Then I re-used the piece I trimmed out and grafted the top piece with the top beads onto the bottom, that way the beads connect with the upper firewall beads. Then I made filler pieces that have pressed beads to continue the bead from the front to the back.

Its all trimmed ready to be welded in place. The goal is to have it look very natural with all the beads continuing to each other.