Over heating

66juiced · Apr 27, 2013

I've got a 66 f100 that will sit and idle for a hour and not overhheat , but the second you take it for drive it will start . It's got a 300 i6 three speed on tree .. New thermostat,radiator, water pump , fan . Can't figure it out !! Any ideas?

mustang6147 · Apr 27, 2013

actual over heat? Like steam ect..... if not perhaps the guage....

Make sure you have plenty of air flow through the radiator....

It may sound stupid, but the fan isn't backwards right? or a reverse flow fan.... When your still it pushes air forward instead of back, or pushes instead of pulls, it wont get noticed till your rollin

shivasdad · Apr 27, 2013

That's what I was wondering. Otherwise maybe a severe advance problem that becomes apparent with increased rpm's?

66juiced · Apr 27, 2013

The fan should be pulling while idling and moving I think . When I'm sitting still its pulling . And as far as timing I'm positive it's set correct .. I just got the truck going about a week ago , I had the truck a hour from my house while I worked on it . The first "real" drive it ran great for 50 min to my house then boom overheat. I put water in it parked it for the night the next morning drove it all around town perfect .. I kinda think its reved up to high with this three speed ?

Rick S · Apr 27, 2013

Lower radiator hose missing internal spring causing it to collapse and restrict coolant flow?

66juiced · Apr 27, 2013

O and sometimes steam sometimes not just depends how she feels that day !

66juiced · Apr 27, 2013

Brand new hoses also .

hoop · Apr 27, 2013

Check for worn out breaker plate in the distributor.

Engine man · Apr 27, 2013

Those engines usually don't heat up at all. I know a guy who would remove the fan in the winter to get enough heat to warm the cab.

shivasdad · Apr 27, 2013

I daily drive my 66 f100 with an inline six 240, the baby brother to yours. Mine has not overheated at all and the revs at 65 are right at 3000. No mods to engine that I know of and I have four on the floor. Check the spring in the lower hose and also check how much mechanical advance you're getting. Initial may be good and then you're getting too much at speed. I think it's probably something simple though. Make a list and start checking things off.

My new hoses came without the spring.

HOTRODPRIMER · Apr 27, 2013

You sure the radiator is full? HRP

31Vicky with a hemi · Apr 27, 2013

Engine man said: ↑

Those engines usually don't heat up at all. I know a guy who would remove the fan in the winter to get enough heat to warm the cab.
Click to expand...

Could always put a thermostat in it

31Vicky with a hemi · Apr 27, 2013

First thing you need to do is verify the temp rise and eliminate the gauge as being the culprit.

Second is sufficient coolant flow thru the system at speed.

If it sat for a while then put on the road there's lots of sediments that could have plugged things up some.

Engine man · Apr 27, 2013

31Vicky with a hemi said: ↑

Could always put a thermostat in it
Click to expand...

He had a 195 degree stat but just the air flowing over the engine on a 20 below day would cool it off. An inline 6 block has lots of surface area to radiate heat. In the summer he used just 2 of the 4 blades.

40FordGuy · Apr 27, 2013

Is that radiator NEW, as in "right out of the box" ? or a used one, that was "cleaned out" and painted ?

Ditto, what 31 Vicky said.... Verify the actual temp.

4TTRUK

Special Ed · Apr 27, 2013

I know it sounds lame, but many a thermostat has been installed upside down ....
Easy enough to check it off your list.

66juiced · Apr 27, 2013

I've got a 165 thermostat in it . I hooked up a aftermarket temp gauge to it and its at 200 .

66juiced · Apr 27, 2013

I also noticed the truck calls for a 18 inch fan . The fan I have on it is a 14 could this make it over heat?

tommy · Apr 28, 2013

Ok ...idles cool so no fan problems. don't waste time up this tree.

Most of the time an over heating engine at speed when a fan is not needed is usually caused by a clogged radiator tube or tubes. Not enough capacity for the load at speed. It handles the lower load at idle but can't keep up when the load increases.

An infrared thermometer can show you which tubes are not transfering heat any more assuming it worked well once.

66juiced · Apr 28, 2013

Ok today I found that radiator cap was bad so I replaced that . Bought brand new hoses bottom one with a spring in it . Bought some engine flush , it was pretty dirty bought a aftermarket temp gauge hooked it up .. I was feeling good about my chances !! Like I said it has a 165 thermostat . Let her warm up awesome gauge read 165 hell yeah , jump in and get on highway I was cruisin at 60 for about 5 miles and she got up to 240 ! Only thing I can think of now is new radiator . Who knows at this point . Been working on this truck for a year , finally tagged and inspected and can't even enjoy it . Bummer . She's stealing my time and money ... Anyone want a 66 custom cab ?

54 Chevy · Apr 28, 2013

It sounds to me like the radiator maybe to small. There are differences between a V8 and a 6 Cylinder. Check to see if a V8 radiator will work with your 6 cylinder. I believe that you can still get those radiators from local auto parts stores. Check NAPA if you have one local.

spiders web · Apr 28, 2013

A 165 deg. t-stat is too low. Put in a 195 and make sure it is installed properly. A 165 doesn't allow the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to cool. Also if the rad has a shroud is the fan properly in the opening. Check radiator cap. does it hold its advertised pressure, if not this could also be your problem. Good luck!

need louvers ? · Apr 28, 2013

'31 Vicky asked if it was a NEW radiator or an old one painted and shined up. My little o/t Maverick driver would idle all day long with the A/C blowing icicles ad never overheat on the hottest of Phoenix days, but drive it any time at all over 45 and it was huckin' all it's coolant overboard. Late last summer I took the "clean" radiator over to a shop and had it professionally done, problem solved...

Nelsen Motorsports · Apr 28, 2013

Maybe the gauge is lying. My car has an SW gauge and it reads 240, it never pings though so I just drive it...

31Vicky with a hemi · Apr 28, 2013

I had a nice long post for you and it disappeared !

Basically,
quit throwing money at it and verify coolant flow they the radiator and the block.

And

Engine flush and coolant flush are two completely different things

40FordGuy · Apr 28, 2013

What is the pressure of the radiator cap you are using ? Each 1 lb. of cooling system pressure will raise the boil point of a 50/50 coolant mix by 3 degrees. Doing the math, by using a 15 lb cap, the boiling point is raised by 45 degrees. Add that to 212 , and your boiling point is now 257 degrees,....so running at 240 degrees is well withing the safe range.

try the easy things first,.......

4TTRUK

Engine man · Apr 28, 2013

Could there be something in the engine that blocks the thermostat at higher flow? Did the cooling system ever sit open so mice could get inside?

GassersGarage · Apr 28, 2013

I think your best bet is to have a radiator shop flush your existing radiator. Then check to see if your distributor advance is working. My car would idle all day but heat up on the freeway. Turns out, the advance was frozen and not advancing. Once I swapped distributors, it went from 210 down to 160.

66juiced · Apr 29, 2013

I've had a195 t-stat same problem . As far as the blockage the block and head were both at the machine shop . So I don't think that's a problem and the radiator was brand new out of the box . The coolant is clean when it's gushing out and when I drain the rad since I flushed it . I'm thinking the vacuum advance is shot . Gonna try and see of its any good this evening . . I'm the type that this type of stuff drives me nuts and I won't give up till its good to go .. Thanks to all of you for all the advice ..

FrozenMerc · Apr 29, 2013

You may have a bad head gasket. One of the few weak points of the Ford 300 is the head gasket. You could be pushing combustion gases into the coolant causing the overheat. A Leak-Down test may be in order.

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