Did anyone in the past (probably '70s era??) use the rear trailing arms out of the '67-'72 chevy/gm pickups to mount the rearend in a coupe?? Maybe some of the earlier year pickups?? I dont know if I am imagining this or if I saw it somewhere but this seems like a decent junkyard solution... u-bolts allow easy pinion angle adjustment, easily obtainable replacement parts (bushings and such). Would be cool to go to the junkyard and get the parts I need to mount the rear in my model A...
Very workable. NASCAR uses it. AHOTROD here on the HAMB has a version on his A coupe. Several bagged Customs around here use a version too. Heres a link to a company making a business out of it! http://www.hotrodstohell.net/
Cool idea. Classic industries sell a pretty nice crossmember and arm set up that could be easily modded up. (non tubular) if all else fails. Make sure if you do find some that rust hasn't separated the two halves.
Yes a very good working suspension setup. Truck stuff is overkill for an A sedan or coupe. I did a similar setup with 2x2x.250 steel tube. Make the front of the arms converge as close to the front U joint as possible. This allows for a little chassis roll,so the car doesn't 'skitter' around a corner. With a transverse spring I didnt feel I even needed a panhard bar. It works real good tooSparkee
thinking of using them on my wagon when I redo the rear set up. any idea what a pair of trailing arms go for?
From the junk yard?.........I've paid as little as $75. From a truck restoration place.....I'd have to find the catalog...but I remember it was enough that I considered going into the business of making them if that was what they were selling for. $$$$$$ I put this set-up under an S-10 for the Silver State Open Road Race and loved it.
i have a bunch of 67-72 trucks and i think the set up is good but those arms are probably pretty big for a small hotrod. if you want some measurements off one let me know i will crawl under my 72.
Steve G, thanks for the info. I have access to a 67 swb (minus bed) with a freshly rebuilt 283 (its out of the truck still) for $500. thought about buying the apart project, and sell off the parts on the truck keeping the motor and rear arms. Cab I believe is solid and I know the front sheetmetal is popular for conversions. figured I would be into the motor and arms for next to nothing.
Here is a pic of Stevie D's T chassis. Titus posted a pic a couple years ago, and I always thought it was a clean design that I plan on copying. Here is a link to the whole post: StevieDs T chassis
Back in the 70's - 80's I'd seen it done on larger cars like tri-5 chevys, but I think they are too bulky for a 30's car. Build or buy some smaller ladder bars. I think in the long run you'll be more happy with them.
my 63 chev pu has them stock, so im guessing the years for these are from 60-72 or 62-72. My dad has them on his t bucket. They are definately on the bukly side.
I have 'em on my F-1 Ford pick-up ........the springs replaced with air bags make for a very nice ride.....and when doing burnouts, you get no wheel hop....I luv 'em.
I've been happy with them on my old chevy pickups so I think I'll also go with this setup for my 40 chevy...with bags. A panhard bar is mandatory.
I once took the whole rear suspension from a 71 LeMans and stuck it under my 32 Chev sedan. I used all the Leman's crossmembers, spring pockets, coil springs, shocks, all 4 trailing arms, and parts of the frame rails. Lotsa work but it rode really nice. .bjb
Clark and the So What guys run this set up on a lot of their stuff. Like folks have already said, it's supposed to be really good ride quality and a great, easy way to go, especially if it's going to be adjustable. I know he's got a lot of photos of how they did it (pretty simple) hopefully he can post some info. Curt
what he said... I have them under the rear of my 40 and when I built my 48f1 I sought out a 67 swb chassis JUST for the rear suspension.. (it worked out that the wheel base was close too.. yes they work.. yes it works really well with bags..
www.'67-'72chevytrucks.com lots of guys their are parting out these trucks and have good trailing arms. I got a set for my '69 for $75 + shipping which was like $25 through DHL. And yes you have to make sure to get a good set that isn't seperating the two halfs.
I need to clairify. If you use coils,you WILL need a panhard bar. I am using a transverse(buggy) spring,which gives me enough laterall stability.Sparkee
Like others have said the truck trailing ars are a little big for small hot rods. I basically copy the same thing in I beam for small cars. I have even used the same bushings. Here's a pic of what I do for small cars. I use bags but springs or a buggy spring could be used. Clark
Cool Clark, so the bushings are the '67-'72 pieces? Kinda hard to tell but do you use u-bolts to attach the arms to the rearend? What size I-beam is that? Thanks for all the help guys, I think I am gonna do this...
For this car I used Jeep spring bushings. They are eurethane. I got them off of Ebay...cheap!! I use 2 1/2" I beam but it's hard to find. 3" works too. The axle is attached by plates with 4 grade 8 bolts. Clark
Clark! That is REALLY clean workmanship man! Just some flat plate, I beam and a good eye. Impressive and as durable as anything you could possibly use. I like the oxide primer you used too. What is that? Has that early look about it...
Bill ...thanks! The red oxide is PPG DPLF. I doctored it a bit with some black. Flipper not sure what they weigh. Can't be much. The advantage of using I beam over tubing is the I beam allows for twist. The tubing doesn't. Plus it looks cool drilled Clark
I've been reading old threads today on rear trailing arm setups...brings me to this one. Remembered that i had saved some neat 2in I beam from a scrapper years ago. I've got about 15ft that's straight. Add some holes with a mill and a little fab and that may be my solution.
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