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'67-'72 trailing arms??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dan, Sep 29, 2005.

  1. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,386

    Dan
    Member

    Did anyone in the past (probably '70s era??) use the rear trailing arms out of the '67-'72 chevy/gm pickups to mount the rearend in a coupe?? Maybe some of the earlier year pickups?? I dont know if I am imagining this or if I saw it somewhere but this seems like a decent junkyard solution... u-bolts allow easy pinion angle adjustment, easily obtainable replacement parts (bushings and such). Would be cool to go to the junkyard and get the parts I need to mount the rear in my model A...
     
  2. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Very workable.
    NASCAR uses it. AHOTROD here on the HAMB has a version on his A coupe.
    Several bagged Customs around here use a version too.

    Heres a link to a company making a business out of it!

    http://www.hotrodstohell.net/
     
    Elcohaulic likes this.
  3. LUX BLUE
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 4,407

    LUX BLUE
    Alliance Vendor
    from AUSTIN,TX

    Cool idea. Classic industries sell a pretty nice crossmember and arm set up that could be easily modded up. (non tubular) if all else fails. Make sure if you do find some that rust hasn't separated the two halves.
     
  4. jalopy43
    Joined: Jan 12, 2002
    Posts: 3,085

    jalopy43
    Member Emeritus

    Yes a very good working suspension setup. Truck stuff is overkill for an A sedan or coupe. I did a similar setup with 2x2x.250 steel tube. Make the front of the arms converge as close to the front U joint as possible. This allows for a little chassis roll,so the car doesn't 'skitter' around a corner. With a transverse spring I didnt feel I even needed a panhard bar. It works real good too:DSparkee
     
  5. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,341

    Rand Man
    Member

    Yes, Yes, Yes, very good. It should be done.
     
  6. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,689

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa

    thinking of using them on my wagon when I redo the rear set up. any idea what a pair of trailing arms go for?
     
  7. From the junk yard?.........I've paid as little as $75.
    From a truck restoration place.....I'd have to find the catalog...but I remember it was enough that I considered going into the business of making them if that was what they were selling for.

    $$$$$$

    I put this set-up under an S-10 for the Silver State Open Road Race and loved it.
     
  8. CG
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,072

    CG
    Member

    i have a bunch of 67-72 trucks and i think the set up is good but those arms are probably pretty big for a small hotrod. if you want some measurements off one let me know i will crawl under my 72.
     
  9. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,689

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa

    Steve G, thanks for the info. I have access to a 67 swb (minus bed) with a freshly rebuilt 283 (its out of the truck still) for $500. thought about buying the apart project, and sell off the parts on the truck keeping the motor and rear arms. Cab I believe is solid and I know the front sheetmetal is popular for conversions. figured I would be into the motor and arms for next to nothing.
     
  10. nobux
    Joined: Oct 19, 2002
    Posts: 648

    nobux
    Member

    Here is a pic of Stevie D's T chassis. Titus posted a pic a couple years ago, and I always thought it was a clean design that I plan on copying. Here is a link to the whole post: StevieDs T chassis
     

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  11. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,419

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Back in the 70's - 80's I'd seen it done on larger cars like tri-5 chevys, but I think they are too bulky for a 30's car. Build or buy some smaller ladder bars. I think in the long run you'll be more happy with them.
     
    dirty old man likes this.
  12. briggs&strattonChev
    Joined: Feb 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,236

    briggs&strattonChev
    Member

    my 63 chev pu has them stock, so im guessing the years for these are from 60-72 or 62-72.

    My dad has them on his t bucket. They are definately on the bukly side.
     
  13. Radshit
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 1,420

    Radshit
    Member

    I have 'em on my F-1 Ford pick-up ........the springs replaced with air bags make for a very nice ride.....and when doing burnouts, you get no wheel hop....I luv 'em.
     
  14. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 17,619

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    I've been happy with them on my old chevy pickups so I think I'll also go with this setup for my 40 chevy...with bags. A panhard bar is mandatory.
     
  15. Jokester
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 792

    Jokester
    Member

    I once took the whole rear suspension from a 71 LeMans and stuck it under my 32 Chev sedan. I used all the Leman's crossmembers, spring pockets, coil springs, shocks, all 4 trailing arms, and parts of the frame rails. Lotsa work but it rode really nice.

    .bjb
     
  16. Curt Six
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 1,004

    Curt Six
    Member

    Clark and the So What guys run this set up on a lot of their stuff. Like folks have already said, it's supposed to be really good ride quality and a great, easy way to go, especially if it's going to be adjustable. I know he's got a lot of photos of how they did it (pretty simple) hopefully he can post some info.
    Curt
     
  17. sawzall
    Joined: Jul 15, 2002
    Posts: 4,757

    sawzall
    Member

    what he said...

    I have them under the rear of my 40 and when I built my 48f1 I sought out a 67 swb chassis JUST for the rear suspension.. (it worked out that the wheel base was close too..

    yes they work.. yes it works really well with bags..
     
  18. arkracing
    Joined: Feb 7, 2005
    Posts: 891

    arkracing
    Member


    www.'67-'72chevytrucks.com lots of guys their are parting out these trucks and have good trailing arms. I got a set for my '69 for $75 + shipping which was like $25 through DHL.

    And yes you have to make sure to get a good set that isn't seperating the two halfs.
     
  19. Johnny Black
    Joined: Jun 27, 2005
    Posts: 295

    Johnny Black
    Member

    I have a set ill give someone if theyre gonna use them.



     
  20. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,386

    Dan
    Member


    I'll take 'em!!
     
  21. jalopy43
    Joined: Jan 12, 2002
    Posts: 3,085

    jalopy43
    Member Emeritus

    I need to clairify. If you use coils,you WILL need a panhard bar. I am using a transverse(buggy) spring,which gives me enough laterall stability.Sparkee
     
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  22. CHRIS 57
    Joined: Jun 10, 2005
    Posts: 187

    CHRIS 57
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Muscle Motorsports sells lightly used NASCAR units for $50 each. I used them in my 57 chevy.
     
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  23. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    Like others have said the truck trailing ars are a little big for small hot rods. I basically copy the same thing in I beam for small cars. I have even used the same bushings. Here's a pic of what I do for small cars. I use bags but springs or a buggy spring could be used.
    Clark
     

    Attached Files:

    Elcohaulic likes this.
  24. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,386

    Dan
    Member

    Cool Clark, so the bushings are the '67-'72 pieces? Kinda hard to tell but do you use u-bolts to attach the arms to the rearend? What size I-beam is that? Thanks for all the help guys, I think I am gonna do this...
     
  25. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    For this car I used Jeep spring bushings. They are eurethane. I got them off of Ebay...cheap!!

    I use 2 1/2" I beam but it's hard to find. 3" works too. The axle is attached by plates with 4 grade 8 bolts.
    Clark
     

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  26. Dan
    Joined: Mar 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,386

    Dan
    Member

    very cool, thanks for the help!
     
  27. Flipper
    Joined: May 10, 2003
    Posts: 3,439

    Flipper
    Member
    from Kentucky


    Clark, what do a pair of your I-beam trailing arms weigh? ...just curious



    .
     
  28. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Clark! That is REALLY clean workmanship man!
    Just some flat plate, I beam and a good eye.
    Impressive and as durable as anything you could possibly use.

    I like the oxide primer you used too.
    What is that? Has that early look about it...
     
  29. Clark
    Joined: Jan 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,132

    Clark
    Member

    Bill ...thanks! The red oxide is PPG DPLF. I doctored it a bit with some black.

    Flipper not sure what they weigh. Can't be much. The advantage of using I beam over tubing is the I beam allows for twist. The tubing doesn't. Plus it looks cool drilled :D
    Clark
     

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  30. Boxcar's 1928
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 798

    Boxcar's 1928
    Member

    I've been reading old threads today on rear trailing arm setups...brings me to this one. Remembered that i had saved some neat 2in I beam from a scrapper years ago. I've got about 15ft that's straight. Add some holes with a mill and a little fab and that may be my solution.
     

    Attached Files:

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