Hi. Yeah. I agree, but us "small timers" use what we got, in my case a "puffer" gun made up like a battery drill. I have less in this whole rig, modified kitchen oven and pc gun, powders than the quote given to this fella for the wheels". It works, does not "get down into the cracks" as well as paint for sure, the surface tension of the melted pc is too great. I too pre-heat, as it makes a better bond and starts the "heat curing" of the powder easier it seems. It also burns off any finger prints, or light "funk" that might be on the surface. I am just a hobbiest and no business competetion to you, or your buddies shops.. I just replace rustoleum on the things I build here with a more durable finish when possible. When the polymer powder has gone through it's "heat cycle" after flow out, you can hardly remove it even when you want to. I (after drinking many beers) got a softail frame down on the concrete and drove the bushings in for the swingarm.. then I realized, it was on the concrete as I banged away with a hammer.. no marks.. I laid a six pack of beer on my fatbob gas tanks and rode back to the Sturgis campground, lil round circles of aluminum on the surface of the pc.. no marks after I wiped it down.. For a chemical-abrasion-resistant finish powdercoat done right is tops. IT, like I mentioned before is not UV protected normally.. thou powders change daily.. it looks "chalky" after prolonged exposure to the sun.
As long as you use polyester (PPL or RAL) colors any reputable brand ( prismatic,tiger, tci,spraylat,dupont,etc) will work just fine. Most powder problems come from inexperienced coater or improper cure temp or time or bad prep. I preheat most parts also this helps flow into corners and higher build to smooth imperfections. Powder will also work like a filler primer if block sanded and then a second coat.
An issue somebody brought up...maybe it was here. He had his wheels power-coated. When he got 'em back, he was surprised and disappointed to see that they hadn't been coated inside the rim.
My biggest complaint about powder is its lack of chemical resistance. A little gas or brake clean will strip it right off. Paint seems to be a bit more forgiving in this area.
Really? I did not know that lacked resistance,,,my friend just had all the inner fender panels from his 61 Buick powdercoated. I guess on wheels you would be safe. I used epoxy primer on my wheels and amazingly it is holding up well but I also have hubcaps
The only time powder is not chemical resistant as hell is if not cured correctly! I powdered my fuel filler neck inside and out. 15 years later and no problems! Ever!
What's your curing process? I've had zero luck with powdercoat coming into contact with gas, brake clean, carb cleaner, etc.
450 deg. for 45 min. But varies slightly. Most powder need 20 min after reaching full temp all the way through.
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