Features Traditional Track T or Bucket Build Cost Under $5000??

You're not going to have alot of bumpsteer set up the way it is... You could heat & bend the steering arm to more closely match the curve of the axle.... too bad the steering box is mounted so low... being that your radius rods are a different length than the drag link the arcs are never going to be perfect anyway.... remember the front axle won't move much more than 1" up/down , so you're only looking at 1/16" variance or so , not really a big deal
IMO

dave

 

I have that arm-I cut some out of the U and turned it upside down. Still plenty of strength.

 

Thanks for the tips. I already ordered a different arm though. We'll see how it lays out...

 

If you wanna drive to PA i'll sell you a Dirt Track Modified chassis. I have 3 of them and my brother has no interest in racing anymore.

 

That looks like a well built base for a hot rod. In this state I would just about have to buy a frame like that to get around the state's current stipulations on hand built frames or home built frames that include being a certified welder or having the welds inspected by a certified welder. The inspectors I have talked to say that they will accept a frame from a shop like Spirit with a statement of origin.

I wouldn't put much credence into the comments by the poster who made the 1-800 hot rod comment. Searching through his posts I couldn't find one photo of his "T Bucket" with the 383 stroker. A guy's being on here and never posting a photo of his hot rod sounds like it may be a kit rod or OT rod. From what I have seeni it usually seems like the guys who like to give guys a ration about their project either have rusty rat rods, OT cars or no known hot rod.

 

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc514/davidjensen2/abcxyz201.jpg

I believe that is the car of 2old2fast. Doesn't look all that bad to me.

Neal

 

Thanks J There you go 48

dave

 

That's his.

 

I just saw that Spirit is running their sale again 297.50 for just the body plus shipping. I'm getting a price again........man I want to build.

 

here is some inspiration

 

I'm in love!

Can we get some details gege? Do you have a thread on it.

 

I did have a thread "mystery car update".
It was on the cover of rod and custom in the april issue.
I will post some other pictures of things you can't see in those pictures.

 

gege I was just saying to myself that looks like the car in Rod & Custom. Your car is the one that sent me on the hunt for info on building a T bucket man.

I have always loved them at car shows and when I started looking at doing a Hot Rod project I thought about a T but wasn't sure and then when I saw that issue and your Bucket I knew I wanted to build one.

Very cool car and I would love to build one like it!

 

an additional thought for all to ponder.(the following is not to discredit glass t buckets)

It takes a little more work(well maybe a lot!) to build one from steel.
If you do it from steel you don't get stress cracks from the tall windshields and wind, you can slam the door, and generally have a no stress crack solid ride.
Get on ebay and buy a door, the door hinge,cowl,firewall,windshield,door latch and a few other parts, the you can buy new side panels,dash,seat back,seat riser,all the steel bed parts you need, even a shortened bed by searching bed makers,all these parts are available by hunting under t sheet metal replacement parts.
You gatta be able to weld instead of glassing.
I am not saying it is easy but in the end the car is steel and solid that gives you a solid thunk when shutting the door. It could take years versus months for a steel car when doing it yourself.(you will also learn about tall and short height cowls and firewalls.
You can also go on ebay and find complete bodies or cars that you can use.
Mine was a t touring i removed the back half from as i wanted it in the style of all the first
buckets built. hope this feeds some brain cells.

 

Been looking at steel bodies and a guy that is local to me has one, well a full T with turtle deck for 2K. The car has some cracks in the metal and needs work.

I'm not sure if I could use the old frame or not, I'm told by owner I could if I box it.

The car still has its wooden spoke wheels too.

 

Hey CoronetRTguy, I don't mean to sound like an ass again, but keep looking. I was just offered a '23 roadster body and early turtle deck out here today for 250.00. The guy was a friend of a friend and literally called me about 11:00 this morning. I turned him down though because I have a '24 with the later turtle deck that I bought off of a friend's shop wall about two years ago for 300.00. Hell, if your up for steel and you don't mind relaying or shipping it give me a P.M. and I'll dig his number up for you.

Most steel stuff is pretty rough these days and I'm sure this is no exception. But, weld up a tear here, and a crack there and pin it all together and soon it looks like a body. It does take more time to do, but is generally cheaper to buy into. Fiberglass though is great for a "T" bucket! To me, that's what they are supposed to be!

 

I built this for under 5 grand. mostly made or scrounged parts.

 

Hey man it's all good I never take it as that. I take everyones advice. I like steel and I like glass. The price on glass is right where I need to be right now and I want to keep my cost down as well. I have found a few other steel bodies.

I have seen glass cars with spider web cracking and that doesnt worry me at all.

I keep thinking about motor and trans options and I really don't need a big horse power motor but the deal on the the 383 with 727 is very tempting.

I wish I could buy the spirit body right now and if I could ship it to a shop here I would save almost 200 bucks.

 

Hey guys. I just scored a good running 350 Chevy engine out of a '73 pickup for $400. I have the idea of maybe selling the donor car as a runner and make a few bucks on it since I got it cheap. I can maybe make at least $500-$700 on it so it should pay for most of the driveline for the T. I have a good cheap trans in my sights too.

I'd rather have a 350 over a 305 anyway. Hey, it's not an original idea, but it's cheap!

I'll post pics when I get it...

 

Awesome score man! When you can find something running and good to go that helps a lot. Both motors are good for the bucket and for aftermarket parts.

What trans are you looking at?

I wish there was some guys in my area building it would be fun to help, watch and hunt parts.

The one 383 motor the guy has here is a running motor for 350 (he would take 300) with 727 trans. He said he would rebuild it if it was him but I dont know. Need to check it out more.

Is there anything different you have to do to the frame since you are going with a different motor?

Forgot to ask it is a truck 350 they are different than a car 350, right?

 

I don't think there's a difference in the engines car to truck other than maybe some accessories year to year. That's the nice thing about SB Chevys. Other than induction and minor things, pretty much everything stayed the same from '55 right through the '80's and 90's.

 

Ok, I dont know why something sticks out in my head. I think maybe the bolt pattern or something. I'm a Mopar guy so the Chevy stuff is out of my zone. I do wish I kept the 350 motor that was given to me or I should say just the block.

Mopar I think did some crazy stuff with their motors, like in the truck if it has a 413 in it I think its different than what when in a car. Also the 440s in the RVs are different than what went into cars. I also do not think they put the 340 and 440 in any of their trucks. Now I wonder why they didnt.

Question. If I go with a Mopar rear end can how can I make other make and models (chevy, GM and Ford) wheels work with this rear? I also thought about getting the drums off the Mopar for the front as well.

I might need to rethink my choice on the rear or parts I use. I found a set of mag wheels that are from the 60s that I love and look great on rods and I've seen them on buckets but they are 4 bolt pattern.

 

I don't know. Sorry.

 

No problem I will figure it out.

 

Either get you axle flanges redriller for the new pattern or get new axles made with the right pattern already drilled.

 

Thank you! I have always wondered how other builders have made parts work together like this.

 

Many MoPar and Ford wheels use the same pattern (5 on 4.5)

 

Yes but watch out for different sized center holes. Can cause wheels to not seat all the way.

 

Yeah I know that the magnum wheels from the 60s and 70s were both used on Mopar and Ford.

I found a set of Ansen (I think spelled wrong) that I'm told came off a Mustang but not sure what year. I have seen these wheels used on a lot of 60s and 70s Muscle cars and hot rods from that time. I love the look of them. They are four lug.

 

Four - lug mustang ? Probably Mustang II [ugly car] or maverick?? might only be 14" .... awful small IMO
dave