Broken installer tool in Crank 350 Chevy

I just tried to install the balancer on a 350 Chevy with a brand new NAPA installer tool, just when the engine started to turn I blocked the flex plate. I'm 66 years old have had both arms broken twice, so I'm not that strong. With the car on a lift reaching up with a 12" crescent wrench it just broke inside the crank. <O</O
<O</O

Does anyone know a good made in the USA tool if I can get the broken China part out? I thought Napa would have been better than this. Nowhere on the tool or box does it say made in the USA. If I'm wrong it still broke off like a cheap tool.

Thanks any help would be appreciated
custom50<O</O

 

I have done this a time or two...my ol mechanic came to my rescue....he says to first take a sharp pointed chisel and hammmer and try and drive it out counter clock wise...just go to like 3 oclock position and try driving it to the 1 oclock position or its equivelent...squirt some lubricant on there first. I use the sharp pointed chisel that I use to make a point to start a drill bit so it does not walk.

I have heard of folks welding a piece on there and backing out the broken screw part if you have a welder handy.

My ol mech saved me one time with a water pump bolt...I even broke off the easy out which I am not that fond of in the bolt...and then chiseled around it....he looked at it and just looked at me in a disgusted way....20 minutes later he asked for air, and blew the parts and bits out of the hole...then asked me never to do that again...if you break it off....try the chisel method and if needed then call me he said.

If its broke off pretty far back in and you cannot get a chisel to it....you might have to drill it straight, then try a pointed easy out and I do mean very little turning it out pressure or it will break off...then you are in deep do do...or one of the reverse screw easy outs...very gentle again.

I am sure others on here will give some good advise also.

Good luck....hate Chinese made tools but love my Chinese neighbor....she is so healthy and vibrant and legs to die for.

 

I don't think the threaded piece will be locked into the crank snout. I'd try a left handed drill bit to remove it. Or you might even be able to un screw it using the eraser end of a pencil.

I've pulled 2 of the adaptors apart on small blocks, so don't feel bad.

 

The adapter for the tool broke off too far inside to use the chisel.

I have broken a eazyout inside on the block, tried to weld a washer to the broken bolt but there is nothing to grab onto. I ended up selling the 41 Plymouth Coupe as with a bad motor.

Nothing like a nice set of legs as far as I can remember lol.

Thanks

 

I made sure the adapter was seated but I might be able to center punch a hole and dry the left handed drill. I had to walk away before I tore up something else.

Thanks

 

All depends on why or how it broke.
Only you know that.
If its below flush, fashion a drill guide so you stay centered while drilling.
Take your time and make a good one.
Above all be patient and do not cause more damage and loose what you have.
The last thing you want to have to do is pull it out and haul it to the machine shop.
Left handed bits would be my first choice, they can do pretty good tricks.
A small left handed tap and a matching left handed bolt would be next.

I always give an easy out about a 93.6% chance of breaking if its going into a bolt that Broke coming out.

 

If you go the welding route, make sure you ground to the flex plate or crank snout. You don't want to ground through the bearings, pistons, rings etc.....

 

I'd try the left handed bits if you can't get the chisel in there. If you have a welder handy weld in the biggest nut you can fit. Fill it good in the center and add plenty of tacks around the edges if you can reach.

Good luck, I hate it when sh$t like that happens.

 

I'm with the left hand drill bit.....


4TTRUK

 

I have to pull the balancer back off, at least that puller was made in the USA. I will take the advice of trying to make a guide like you said, I screwed up a head on number 8 cylinder trying to drill out a broken spark plug, had to replace the head. I really need to stop working on cars, it cost me too much..

Thanks

 

I cracked a one piece windshield in my 49 Chevy fleetline this week because of a way too small center stainless from a guy in California that says he makes 1500 of them at a time.....orig is 1 1/4 inch wide, his is 1 inch....had to tighten down pretty hard to keep the stainless around the windshield where it was suppose to be....

This guy is a joke for all you guys with chevys and fords wanting one piece windshields.

 

I'm trying to get a 50 Ford ready for all new side glass, I'm taken it to a shop I don't even want to mess with glass.

 

That's most likely why it broke. I always thread them in completely, then back out one turn. Also make sure to hold the main shaft with a wrench while tightening the nut that pushes the balancer on or it will tighten the adapter and snap it off.
I've used a cheap Chinese Autozone set for years. I had it stick once from not holding it while turning the nut, and it scared the heck out of me. Thought I'd break it off trying to get it loose. Since then I've never had a problem by using the above method.
The lefthand drill bits work wonders to get stuck bolts out, and much better for me than easy outs.

 

I also grease the threads to prevent galling.

 

You're more than likely correct I thought about that as soon as it broke because I didn't have that much force on it. I checked out a youTube video but I didn't see the guy back it out so I thought I should seat it.

My wife is working she said she would help me on Monday, she has more patience than me.

Thanks

Thanks

 

A good guide for drilling is a piece of thickwall tubing, that just fits into the ID of the crank snout bolt hole. Then use a bit that is fairly close to the ID of the thickwall tubing. It gets the bit centered on the broken piece in the crank, so if you do need to drill it larger you've got a well-centered pilot hole.

 

Thanks, nice tip for a guide.

I called my wife at work to tell her what I did, she asked how bad is it, I said it's worse than the oil leak we tried to fix.

 

I like the idea of tapping a left hand thread bolt,,,never done it myself but how could it miss! I have always been lucky enough to turn out broken bolts in similar situation with a chisel and patience,,last one I broke I turned out with a magnet,,,,never been that lucky before but the older you get the more likely these situations present themselves.

 

never had much luck with welding a nut on until a guy told me to weld a flat washer to the broken bolt first and then the nut-sheared the flywheel bolts off on my O.T. race car and removed them all with this method[engine still in the car yet!]thanks for the tip on using tubing for a drill guide!

 

I went to the garage this afternoon to get a better look at the broken bolt, I took some pictures to see what some of the people thought. The bolt is broken off deep inside and I’m wondering if there is enough threads to leave it like it is. I would have to get another bolt to press the balancer the rest of the way on.
I tried to use the computer and it was messed up, now it's a little better so I thought I would update the balancer problem.

 

if it is an SFI balancer , you may have to hone it for fit

 

Try using a pointed center punch on it, the ones they are self sprung. Push it in on the broken piece in a loosening rotation at 3 o'clock, when it "unloads", it will be like hammering it to loosen. Next use it at the 9 o'clock and keep doing it until out or you can use a dental pick to spin it out. The self hammering may be just enough to start it spinning out.

 

If the broken bollt was closer to the end of the crank I would feel better I would hate to spread the metal and expand the bolt. I'm just at a quandary. I wanted to fix a oil leak and get this additional problem.

I shouldn't feel too bad though, I changed a motor in a 57 Chevy back in the 60's when the engine let out a loud noise then stopped. It turned out a wire came off from the distributor but after having the engine at a 45 degree angle coming out I wasn't about to stop.

Thanks I will try to do the best from the advice so far that's come from a great bunch of fellow rodders.

custom50

 

This thread makes me nervous. Nobody suggested to the O.P. to just 'talk it out'...

 

There is about a half inch of thread by the length of adapter that broke off inside, if I knew it would be alright I would keep pressing it on put whatever size bolt in to get the pulley back on. It would be nice to talk it out for sure.

 

My best guesses are this.
It's stuck. And it's stuck because it was seated prior to instalation, because it was seated the additional rotation of the shaft durring installation snapped under rotational stress,,, sooooo that means its stuck far beyond the "just take it out" mode. The amount of torque needed to unseat it from the bottom should equal the amount of torque needed to seat and snap it.

Of course trying a dental pic to just spin it out should be on the list, I wouldn't expect it to be sucessful

 

brother,i may be wrong,but take a punch,hit that puppy as close to the middle as you can to give the drill bit a starting point.get a left had drill bit and go to town.i think that puppy will back right out.....................i think.good luck
use a small bit so if worse comes to worse you can use a 1/4 inch extintion to drive in the hole,use a ratchet to try to back it out.

 

^ my thoughts.... My try first,but just a try......spray some lubricating oil at it,and let it soak. If at all possible,try hitting it with a center punch facing counter clockwise,at about 3'0clock poss. You might jar it loose. If that doesn't work,go for the lefty drill,and start at small increments and work your way up. Crappy deal-hope you get it first shot!

 

After thinking about your responce I thought you hit it right on. It makes sense the more I tried to tighten the nut the tighter it was locking the adapter. It would take a lot of force to get it to back out, and it's too far inside to do much without doing more damage. If the half inch of threads or just a bit more would hold up while pressing the balancer the rest of the way would be OK, I think that would be the. Safest way to go. I hope this makes sense. If so can you or someone could let me know what they think I would appreciate it. Thanks

 

I don't see how it is stuck when there isn't any head on it, unless the threads are stripped (unless you went further in the hole where it isn't tapped and stripped it there). Either way, you should be able to get it with a dental pick or something equally small in diameter to walk it back out.

I snapped my installer tool the same way that you did because it is made from Chinese shit pot metal (I didn't strip anything out it just broke for no reason after a couple turns without any side load).. I was able to walk mine out without any problems... it took time, but I got it out.

I wouldn't worry about it... It has to come out and it will, so you just need to buckle down and take care of it.

Try using a electrical pick (screw driver type) I used that initially, and it worked well, they are like 2-5 bucks at lowe's.... do it to it