Anyone have something better to advise then aircraft remover? The 1st few layers came right off but the factory primer isn't giving. I have sone of those resin sanding discs for my grinder but the 36 grit ive been advised seems a bit rough. Im trying to get the whole car down to bare metal but id like to think there is a faster way... Any seuggetions from the paint and body gurus? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
My da isent getting me anywhere fast with this red primer thats on the car which is why i got some of those resign discs Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
seems everyone makes it look so easy and when they put stripper on theyr car the paint falls right off... i had a huge mess goin lol. i was thinkin maybe one of those cup style wire wheels for the grinder but figured id seek help first
Cup brushes work great on an electric grinder just be careful when you get to the window posts/pillars because they will tear into the lead real quick too.
50's factory primer is real tough stuff. I've never found a chemical strip that would dissolve it. Time for some dust and sweat.
yea i already found some lead in the back quarters kinda cool for a yougn like me! Thanx for the advise i was hoping this all wouldnt go back to hard work lol but i guess if 10 ours got a door and a quarter almost clean another decade should do the rest hahah
I stripped all the paint off a 38 Ford, down to bare metal using a propane gas flame (wide fish tale shaped outlet nozzle) I set it on a light flame (not roaring out the nozzle) and just worked it with my right hand till the paint started to blister, then moved it forward, at the same time following with a metal scraper in my left hand.. A couple of times the panel started to distort, but I pulled the heat away and let it cool, and all was good, no permanent damage.. It took a couple of evenings to do the whole car, but sure was easier that any other option.. Whatever paint that was left on the metal was crusty/dust, and sanded off with the orbital sander no problem.
Try a fresh piece of 40 grit paper,sand it and put some deep scratches in the primer,this will let the stripper work better at softening the old primer.then you will need some 80 grit on a DA to finish it.Another way is to use a big electric sander/polisher with a 8 inch pad,use 40 grit on it and sand away,it is pretty quick. Harvey
A couple ways...get some 8" 80 grit, use a soft back up pad and a grinder for the big stuff then use the 3M clean and strip discs. They are an woven mineral impregnated resin disc. If ya get the XT's you can use the flat or on edge to get the tighter areas and small stuff
Get a liquid stripper vs the aircraft paste. Also, as was already suggested, sand that last coat some 1st before you apply the stripper. Know this though, it won't flake off or "chunk" off, it's going to liquify that base prime and be a muddy red oxide mess. Whatever you have now, clean it off and dry it up good. Sand it some, no need to get all "serious" and try to surface it, just get it scratched up good. I prefer 80 for that step. Spray on your liquid stripper about 1/2 a panel at a time. WARNING...liquid stripper burns your skin very easily. Feels like a bee sting or worse. My favorite used to be a product called "Lightning Strip". Meanest stuff I ever used but nobody sells it around here any longer. Must still be available (?)... http://lightningstrip.us/metal.htm
Another thing I have found is you don't need the expensive stripper,some of the no name hardware store brands seem to work just as good too.Also make sure that you only brush the stripper on one way,do not slap it on left and right,i know it seems crazy but that is how the stuff works,X2 on the razor blade scraper,get one with a long handle,and keep a small dish of water handy,it is to neutralize the stripper when you get it on your hands,also wear a mask and safety glasses too. Harvey
I tried to use an expensive stripper to get that stuff off but she wanted no part of it. Seriously, I don't know what that red 50's factory primer is, but it's some tough stuff. I used a heavy cup style wire brush but even then it took some doing. I also tried stripper. TheHighlander is right, it will work but I had to use multiple applications and it is a big gooey red oxide mess. As mentioned before, it does help to hit it with 80 grit before the stripper is applied. This stuff works pretty good: http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...pid=800&familyName=Ultra+Strip+Paint+Stripper It's kind of expensive but it's non-caustic and the fumes won't kill you. I laid it down thick and then took a piece of thin painters plastic and laid it over the surface for a couple of hours to keep it from drying out. Works great on regular paint. On the red primer it works good too but it's not going to wrinkle up and fall off like regular paint does. It will soften it though and pretty much turn it into a semi liquid. Then you have to scrape/brush/wipe it off. I don't think there is an easy way. All the options will work but it just takes time and effort.
Hey Buddy, how's it coming along? x2 on the 180 flap wheel...takes it to bare metal pretty quick and doesn't heat up to bad...I also use the roloc type discs for paint removal too but those are expensive and don't last all that long...two of the flap wheels should do the whole car...it does take forever but just think how bitchin it's gonna be when it's done.
Most parts stores carry nitrile gloves now. They're cheaper if you find them at the drugstore though. I think cheapest I've encountered is the Publix pharmacy. I buy mine by the case for work but most guys won't go through fifty gloves a day. Nitrile is the same 'rubber' that fuel o-rings are made from. Most automotive chemicals won't affect it. Gas won't. Working on the boat I learned epoxy will not. They're probably resistant to most strippers too. Both kind, heh heh heh.
Thanx for all the advise seems to mostly come back to elbow grease and sweat. I have tried 3 different kind of strippers and it hasn't phased that red shit even after taking the 36 grit disc to it to rough it up real good. Im not sure the 180 flaps are gonna do a whole ton since the 80 grit flaps werent touching it! Pain in the ass bubill get it done haha Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
An 80 grit on a straight line sander (air file) also works pretty good. Don't let it roll over on you though. It WILL dig a minor trench in the sheet metal. Also, the trick to abrasive longevity is the speed at which it's used. Coarse grits, slower speeds, finer, faster. 80 likes about 50% of the max speed on any sander, or the way I find the sweet spot is to raise the speed just enough to let it float without stalling. Also, LET THE PAPER DO THE WORK. Not yelling, just a spec of emphasis there. Pushing harder just strips the grit off the paper really fast. You want just enough pressure on the sander (DA, air file, 9" grinder/sander) to maintain the largest surface contact possible. I know it seems like a lot of thinking involved just to use some sandpaper, but these things hold true and don't really take any time to implement such use. Last thing, the air file will also net you something else. Highs and lows will reveal themselves in an almost "automatic" fashion. Easy to take note of as you go and you'll miss less as you get to finish surfaces.
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