DIY Spray On Chrome

oh but I have done Dirt bike parts and car outer parts that see alot of abuse and None of them parts are coming off, so my Adhesion is good enough for me.

just Relax man. if I'm able to bend the piece and the spray on chrome is not coming off and when the part see good offroad actin and still coming off ...why would I be worry if the bike Crashes and the plastic parts are broken in 10 pieces,why would I be worry if the spray on chrome didnt hold up to those standards? the plastic piece is of no good anyways.. they would need to replace the plastic part again, in any case a Spray on Chrome Re-Do would be required anyways right? but since its a crash or an acciden you would not be at fault here...

 

I have different standards Nicamarvin! If i ask money for my work, i want quality!
this is my test

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/xFWRP1QynSk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

bad thing is that i cant do so good adhesion again But I hope i am near to to finish!

 

If all remember the car hood I made! My friend make adhesion test I say it is good! Can get off chrome only with screw driver and from places where is damaged!

Click on image

 

thank for your reply...so what topcoat or basecoat are you using now sudzhis?

by the way..Great Job on the hood...yes i remember that!

 

yes i remember re your topcoat(sherwin)..just want to know because i will start my project "spray on chrome" soon...

 

I tryed many many many top coats! For now- one Novol top coat works well (with fire) and for clear coat Glasurit extreeme (ceramic clear) But it is expensive 80$ one L

 

so you are saying I have low standards? that I have Bad Quality? Oh boy...! you have no idea all of the work I've done, you certainly dont like to read all of my post because time and time again I have to repeat things I have posted in the past.


I've been doing this DIY project for "years" now, trying to keep it as Simple as Possible, as inexpencive as possible while retaining good quality for the DIY type of guys..

this is not a Pro kit but it has good quality because I've made sure it does, as long as you follow the guide you will have good quality spray on chrome. but here you come saying..

Oh look at me I've created my own silvering formula. guess what? the DIY is not a chemist.

oh look at me, I use a blue torch and fancy top coats to provide the "Best" Adhesion.. guess what? this DIY uses off the shelf parts and does not require people puting a blue flame torch on their valued plastic parts.

the reason for this DIY Spray On Kit Thread is for the DIY type of guys, that can do alot with a small budget. I wanted to start my own business with it because I love doing it and I live in a third world country and a low $300 budget is actually alot of money here in Nicaragua so thats All I could afford.

 

Nicamarvin, u again dont understand me right! There is no questions about that u made, about that, that your experience is the best for start we had. I started long time ago this thing and i know, that all who sell chemicals take a 500% overpay for the chemicals they sell! For me is different standard, i grow up from newbie to guy who understand a lot of this thing! And u can say that adhesion for your parts is good, but it is not good for me! When i get silver layer so stable like usual paint, then i will say- its good.
Yes, usual polyurethane paint is good enough for interior parts, for some parts that dont take hard lifestyle but it is not good for wheels, for car bonnet, for a bike wheels. Make adhesion test like in videos i post before, and if they will be at least half good that they are on videos, i will shut up! I just want to say, that all is not so easy like it is on videos!

For all who start this thing- maybe think twice before do it!

 

well I tell them my experience .... I have no problems with silver asherencia the basecoat, but with the adhesion of the topcoat on silver .. can be folded, very flaxible, but does not withstand the test of cuts with utility knife .... as my friend SUDHYZ have to improve in that aspect ... sometimes they have good grip and some not ... really do not know why ..

 

I never said it was easy. I just made the process as painless as possible.. still a complicated process not meant of the weak of heart

 

Hi Nicamarvin!

Maybe u know- do AG wetting agent make better adhesion to, or it is only for wetting surface?

 

its only for wetting the surface, it makes all other chemicals flow nice and smoth... what binds or glue the Silver to the shiny surface is the Tin For silver or also known as Sensitizer... the bonding is chemically so it the tin goes bad or is not strong enough then the silver will not stick well...

 

check this pieces....


before wetting agent

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4f32igzfaeA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9pBcekRzi_k" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

After Wetting agent


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/5NJ5-m1Z1KQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9pBcekRzi_k" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

this one of my documented piece I did for ALL of you to watch and learn..

firt the previously "Un Preped" plastic piece. note that is still shiny, all I did was add the Krylon Fusion as glue to the plastic.. now you can use fine sand paper before the special paint for plastic to add adhesion to the piece.

Krylon Fusion
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cbHGHJL-fd4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Black Primer(black base can be use too)
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7yFNI6ip1Uo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

After the Clear Coat, this is where you create the mirror effect. because if you silver over a flat coat your silver will look flat, not mirror.. this is Sherwin William Clear coat 2k urethane automotive grade.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/n5l1QYazhow" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

that was the basic. piece coating preping right before the silvering..

 

after the Clear coat have cured after 24 hours....

Degreasing. I use normal detergent and a soft sponge.. normal tap water so far
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/q9Sj0DIEu_g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Wetting agent..
See previous post on wetting agent...

Tin For Silver(the chemical Glue) allow 45 seconds. dont let it dry
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6jgFYWxYnus" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Silvering(partial video. I had to finish it without the camara, because I was the one filming)
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rEYsghMLG0I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

thats the "Pre Silvering and Silvering" process

 

good info to know---i was a little confused between tin and sensitizer---now i know

 

Nicamarvin i dont use wetting agent, because my sensitizer is good, and wet surface easy! I just want to know did wetting agent helps for adhesion or it is only for wetting surface! Maybe this week i will make some test with wetting agent!

 

its Real name is stannous chloride dihydrate http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin(II)_chloride

 

Tin chloride job is not to wet the surface of the pieces to be silvered. its only job is to make the chemical bond that bonds the surface and the silver in a molecular way... now Alsa´s sensitizer(Tin for silver) does contain wetting agents and with their sensitizer you dont need wetting agent...

years ago I didnt use the wetting agent and the silvering was never even because the sensitizer didnt bond well to the surface because the surface tension of the piece about to be silvered.. now I would never do another piece without using a wetting agent. without it you are doom to fail using my system..

it helps alot... but only because it lets the tin for silver flow nice and even on all the surface of the pice to be silver...

do the testing and let us know ok. I wonder what type of wetting agent are you using.. some surfactant?

 

I can record video, how easy i can wet surface without wetting agent! For now on web u can find a lot of information, how to make good sensitizer! Except AG, none use wetting agents anymore!

Like i said before, maybe wetting agent helps a little for adhesia, but it isnt a magic! There is few formulas how to make top coat with good adhesion! Basics is add resin to top coat! Easiest way is buy this top coat like alsa, spectra chrome! How i know, best is fantachrome top coats!

I bought AG wetting agent before! I will try it this week for adhesion tests!

 

2K Polyurethane should have a very hard surface tension by nature, only none catalized coatins have low surface tention, I have done the testing on Enamel and lacquer and their surface tension was much lower than 2k Polyurethane, I did this study myself because at the time I did not have the wetting agent and I was struggling with the silvering and chemicals not flowing nice

surface tension
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_tension

I found that the best shine to surface tension was found on wood Polyurethane coatings...BUT they nevery actually cured after a few days. and I was not about to wait for 3 weeks for the coating to fully fully gass out....

 

well people, I will make my small contribution ... I comment ... as sudzhis says, you do not need a wetting agent when you have a good activator, why? because stannous chloride in an acid solution of hydrochloric acid, it behaves as an activator and as a humectant, to others, the hydrochloric acid does not let the stannous chloride is transformed into stannic chloride (when it gets old) silver adhesion on the basecoat depends on the composition of it ... have affinity or tin ... to improve adhesion using blue flame (not afraid that is not burned quick pass nothing) generates blue flame on the basecoat mild oxidation, this generates micro holes and an affinity to water ..... I manufactured home a wetting agent (vinegar, coffee, lemon, methanol and water) can see how it works in my videos ...
fire personally achieve excellent adhesion, freshly deposited silver tape does not come off, however hard they try.

http://youtu.be/AECNDGs9jEE

 

Wrong.. Hydrochloric Acid does not behaves as a Humectant or Surfactants.

here Surfactants. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfactant

and if you look at the Surface tension of other liquids including water, methanol(low surface tension) and HydroChloric Acid(many more on the link) you will see that Hydrochloric has infact a high surface tension so it will not work properly on the surface about to be silvered https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface_tension

from link
Ethanol 40% + water = 29.63
HydroChloric Acid(Hydrochloric acid 17.7M aqueous solution) = 65.95


so your notion that somehow Angel Gilding Tin for silver solution is not strong enough is wrong.. the issue is Surface tension. which 2k Urethane Automotive grade should have strong surface tension that needs to be lowered by a surfactant or wetting agen. not Hydrochloric acid

 

Hey there NicaMarvin.... I got what I think is a quick question... what 2K clear do I top coat with (brand) and what ratio do you (blue/purple) tint to get that real chrome look.

I am making dash bezels and need the chrome to match the real chrome that is already in the classic car's interior.

to get a good idea of what exactly I am chroming, see image of the 2k resin cast molded plastic part below (it comes out nice and smooth & shinny and almost zero prep out of mold)



and here is my prototype.. the chrome still has a bit of gold tint to it because of the clear was not tinted correctly...



I was going to buy Alsa topcoat but at the price per quart and shipping... figured it would be better to zip down to finishmasters if I knew to tell them how I wanted the clear tinted...

thanks in advance

 

for production type I could not beat the Alsa chrome tinted clear coat.. check my video of the tone. its a violet. I use Sherwin William top coat. but the tints. I only used single stage blue and single stage magenta to achieve Violet. the ratios would have to be figure out on the spot

 

Hi, Nicamarvin!
Can you explain me such nonsense? I have coated with the same mix of lacquer three things (glass beakers) , but with different result. One become yellow fully. Another yelowish. Another one normaly. Where is the problem? Certainly not in the lacquer.

NOTE: All three glasses silvered at different times. I use spray method.


Thanks!

 

This right here is the Key... since the clear coat you use is the same. how come you get different colors? thats because the silvered parts were not silvered the same. I be one had alittle bit more, the other the silver chemical was not properly mixed. all sort of things could happen. it happened to me in the past.

 

95% sensitizer fault!