DIY Spray On Chrome

tin is one of the most important stages of the process undoubtedly

 

well if its going bad on him. that could be the case. or if the mixing ratio will dictate the amount and rate of silvering..

 

Lacquer become yellow, not silver. I thing, that i fund where is the problem. Now I spend tests.

 

Silver is yellow not lacquer! And where was your problem or u dont solve it?

 

Nicamarvin:
You have the patience of a saint! :-D

 

View attachment 1970162

Please read carefully my first post, that "after top coating become yellowish", not after silvering. Silver is fine.




If were problem in the sensitizer, then yes-silver become dull or brown or ... .
Physically yes-silver become yellowish not lacquer, but there is different process, which is not associated with sensitizer and we can turn in wrong way and search wrong solution (waste time and materials). That's why closely follow the chain of process I have outlined. You can mislead users. Only I know where is the problem come from.
Nicamarvin immediately realized what was going on about and gave the right hint (silver chemical was not properly mixed). I have noticed long time ago that the chemicals from one (trigger sprayer) container is used faster (irregularly) but I forgotten. Nicamarvin give me correct hint (I think). Most likely this is the problem. I need to run a few tests.

 

U have LONG way to go man! Silver some bigger part, than that piece on photo and u will see, that your problems only starts!

 

Weekend have some fun

SKULL



Base coat





Clear coat





Silver









Get good horns, but main skull was with errors

 

Marvin,

Have a slight issue... I have some teture to my item that I do not want 'chromed' as we call it here due to the application of clear, which in enough layers, will fill in the textured surface that needs to be painted satin black after the edge of the part is chromed and have the camera case texture show through...

what do you recommend for masking. should I try to paint (with krylon fusion) the satin black areas, then mask them and then apply the 'chrome' process? Unfortunately, I need the chrome to be shiny and the black to be satin so clear coating everything would render the black too shiny...

 

Spend few days to make loooooot of parts! base/clear coat

part of all parts +/- 25 parts

on weekend will be silver days

training painting skills

 

I'm just too dumb to know when to quit

 

Oh boy... I dont like were this is heading....

listen guys, while there my be chemical issues related to the final color of the silvered piece. IF you do a Perfect Silvering and then you clear coat it it will always turn to a soft yellowing tint/ this has nothing to do with the Tin or the Clear coat.... thats why Alsa Created their "Chrome Tinted" Clear coat. its Violet tinted...

so again. even a perfect silvered piece will yellow a bit as soon as you clear coat it. thats the nature of the beast...

why use Violet? the Violet light spectrum will negate the yellow spectrum. thats science not guesses...

 

Did you use Glossy Silver paint as shiny basecoat?

 

in your cas normal Masking techniques
will work just fine

 

only one that I can say about this topcoat?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvmurxJHz00

 

This is just base coat, later clear coat! I just take from workshop unused base coats and spray, later clear coat! Color under silver is unimportant

 

for me with white you can see how the silvering goes from a blue color to the mirror... with black you cant see this.. the issue that I had with black is that on some places that I cant reach the black shows... so I was thinking that if I use a realistic metal base coat that effect would hide some of my difect. at least not make them worst.

 

Nicamarvin i use before many variations! if silvering goes Ok, than u can paint pink base too! Result will be that same! Yess, i like to work whit light base, than i can see how reaction is going

 

The point is, that I use tinted lacquer. That's why I were little confused.
Btw, (as I know that you use Polyurethane finish) Polyurethane finish have worst adhesion. As they mostly developed for wood (such floors). Polyurethane is more of a protectant than a penetrant, the finish supplied by a polyurethane stain or finish will, under normal circumstances, be much more durable and resilient than the finish supplied by a lacquer coating.

 

that is correct. now I was talking about really hard to reach parts where the silvering my not fully cover. on that case I have some basecoat showing, so a realistic metalic would help alot

 

Hi Nicamarvin!

Specially for u video with wetting agent! Resume- adhesion is not better! It is to easy make scratches that better dont use it! My activator wet surface as good as wetting agent! Check video

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/BFX5YNrKw6A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Dude I´ve been doing this for years now, nobody and I mean nobody has been more stubborn than me on this subject. I´ve had use all the possible lacquers that you may think one could use, wasting an absurd amount of silver in the process to find what works and what wont.. after trying all possible lacquer coatings and having no luck guess what I did? well have you heard about Permalac? http://www.permalac.com/ let me tell you that its about the best outdoor lacquer possible for metals.... But guess what? it didnt work, all my hard earn mony wasted on lacquer...

how about wood polyurethane? well guess what Mr. too dumb to know when to quit did? yeah you are right... I went and spent more silver to find out just how good wood polyurethane is.. well one thing I´ve learn from wood polyurethane. it has the lowest surface tension to durability ratio than anyother coating... but its usless on Spray On Chrome systems... oh but I had to try wood polyurethane from the U.S.A right? well I did too I´ve Ordered Minwax Clear Gloss Polyurethane..

here I´ll show you the pic I took back in 2008, Permalac, Angel Gilding 500ml kit and Minwax, I spent the ENTIRE 500ml kit that is good for about 160 sq/f of good silvering and tons of money on a Production system... but guess what. I was alone I had nobody to tell me whats good or whats bad so I spent all of my hard earned money trying to figure out what works and what wont. so by the time I was ready to go pro I would have all the Do´s and all the Dont´s

here is the pic that goes way back in 2008 it took me 2 years to get back on my feet just to fall again in 2010, but I got up and here we are talking about what works and what dont again, and while I am down yet again I know its not because I failed yet again with this process, I got it down to a sweet science I just needed very good Advertasing, a good business cant survive with out it.... so while I am down and I dont know if I still have what it takes to get back up and give it that last push I need, I will still help around here as much as I can....

Here is the Pic..


the 2010 link and some memorable quotes from me...yeah ismael alvarado is my second name and secon last name.

link of the Hand lettering forum I´ve learned so much from and where I met Mrs. King Angel gilding owner.. http://www.handletteringforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2806

and to go out... I will Holler yet again, I WILL NEVER GIVE UP, I Wont Be Denied............................

 

Before clear coat! Yes, in dark room with flash u can see all defects! There they arent! All is good!












And with UNtinted clear coat







and more






with UNtinted clear coat

 

Nice. Sudzhis.. love the video and nice meeting you, at least knowing how you look....


Sudzhis. while your process seems to be as effective as the best of them, could it be that some of the issues you may see from time to time is because you use compressed air? as you may know compressed air is not the best way to spray on chrome, and I´m not saying this because of my previous experiences, Alsa Corps and Hydrochrome systems also say this..

Alsa: compressed air is not a friend to spray chrome

here is HydroChrome and look how cool they look chroming that piece with a single pump..

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/GaFJsiBclb0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

and this is what they say..this type of spray on chrome is not a friend of compressed air hence all the problem that people get with the finish

and this is the link where you may find that quote
http://www.desisrus.com/videofeed/GaFJsiBclb0


Edit. just saw your pics.. Awesome looking...

 

Yes yes Nicamarvin, i agree for air compressor. But u know if i have a bigger part to silver, i will get mad with hand sprayer! I will clean my air how much i can!

IF U see at video with hand sprayers- they use very strong reducer! Different formula! I use my own formula! I dont buy nothing!

About polyurethane there i dont agree, i dont like it! It is very active paint, make more yellow! For now i use Glasurit clear coat, it is expencive but works! I have long way to go, to get it all perfect! I hope i will have so much power

 

Yes yes Nicamarvin, i agree for air compressor. But u know if i have a bigger part to silver, i will get mad with hand sprayer! I will clean my air how much i can!

IF U see at video with hand sprayers- they use very strong reducer! Different formula! I use my own formula! I dont buy nothing!

About polyurethane there i dont agree, i dont like it! It is very active paint, make more yellow! For now i use Glasurit clear coat, it is expencive but works! I have long way to go, to get it all perfect! I hope i will have so much power

 

while some 2k Urethane can be active or reactive paint almost like lacquer, the Sherwin william clear coats I have tested are the nicest polyurethane(2k Urethane) clear coats I have tested so far. so far I can spray it over any surface without worrying it will lift or mess the other type of paint I am applying it to, I have applied to, lacquers, enamels, water based basecoats and all it does is make them super glossy...

hey Sudzhis last I check glasurit is also a 2k Urethane clear coat right? a very high quality one at that!

dont give up buddy.. in this business we have to be very stubborn.

 

About glasurit- dont know, maybe urethane! Will check! Ahhhh, but price 90$ liter

 

Make some experiments today! Yes yes, clear coat is ugly- but that are my oldest helmet i bought (retro)! Wor on it almost year ha ha! I must to prime it, sand, a lot of sand and clear again! But for now i can say, that my process works ok! Still fight with upper clear coat! Adhesion is best with fire only

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ri2cVllKK3Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

A little Fun today