edelbrock 1406 carb. A/F mixture screw.

just a grain or two of dirt nothing really, and my regulator is set at 4 1/2

 

next is what CARBKING says on a different post of mine, is to pull the carb. and check the lower idle port of the screw giving me problems. he says, that the edelbrock is weaker in casting then other carbs. and that a previous owner might have over tightened the screw and cracked the casting. any thoughts?

 

I am runnin a stock chevy mechanical pump. I understand they are 5 to 7 Psi. Mine works fine.....I sense another Holley guy is being born....

I have no idea. My sons edelbrock acted all goofy, he simply sold it.

 

That actually happens a lot. I saw a guy tightening his screws like he was mad at them. That's a no no.

 

i'll find out tomarow, anyway if I have to i'll still use an edelbrock.

 

2 thoughts come to mind, 1st, you for sure have trash in the idle air bleed. Try spraying carb cleaner in the primary side on and around the side acting up. You will have to open the choke blade and use a flashlight to see the br*** stem.



2nd point, when adjusting idle mix screws, after gently seating them, tuen out an equal amount to 1.5 turns or so, never move one in more then a 1/8 of a turn then the other, doing it properly will make a huge difference on idle quality.

Good luck and remember, a AFB design carb is one of the simplest and trouble free on the market, this a chance to learn about carbs and here you have some very good carb men, slow down and enjoy!

 

oldguard, so I remove the A/F mixture swrew, open the ****erfly and look inside for thr br*** item spray good with carb. cleaner. I took the screw out and sprayed in there with no results. is this what u-r- saying?

 

Always a good idea to clean, but no. On the br*** nozzle on top of the primary block pictured is the major air bleed, and on the "back" side is another air bleed, these need to be cleaned out. These are accessable thru the choke opening. If you pull the carb and take the top off, be sure you remove the power pistons on each side first, the T15 Torx screws hold the little plates on each side of the choke opening, these are another item which can be removed with the carb in place and cleaned if they are sticky, and the springs and br*** rods can be changed very quickly to fine tune, this is a major tuning tool and advantage on these carbs. Good luck.

Go to Edelbrocks tuning page for better pics, look on page 2 for the air bleed onfo
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf

 

the first idle air bleed looks easy enough, but the second one is it easy to get to and should I remove the top WISE MOVE so nothing falls in. i'll post the results tomarow JAN

 

You could and can but if you are really clever you can gently bend the plastic spray extension in to a 90 degree and accomplish this.

 

so there not screws to take out? there just a valve opening? a small tube?

 

well, I just cleaned out the idle bleed 1 and 2. with no results. next would be to remove the carb. and see if the casting is cracked at that mixture screw at the under neath base. but I think if that was the problem it should raise the idle when sprayed with starting fluid. this might sound stupid but its driving me crazy. when seated either A/F mixture screw, the motor should die down CORRECT?

 

By any chance you have this carb on an edelbrock performer intake on a small block chevy? If so, it won't work because that intake is for a quadrajet and there'll be a vacuum leak around the secondaries that you can't see. Edelbrock makes a thin steel adaptor plate to seal that leakage area off.

 

Maybe someone has mismatched parts in this carburetor.

 

Oj, it is on an edelbrock preformer intake.

 

The Performer 1406 is made to work with a Performer intake. It's actually a matched set up promoted by Edelbrock.

OP, if you seat both the A/F mixture screws, it shouldn't run.

 

tf everfred, the drivers one if I seat it it will die, the p***enger one if I seat it it does absolutely nothing. this is my problem, I can't adjust the carb. I pull the plugs and there wet. my cloths smell like exhaust.

 

If you have a performer 2101 intake it is made for a quadrajet, it is a stock oem manifold cast in aluminum. You have a square-bore carb on a spreadbore intake - take the carb off and look at the gasket around secondaries and you'll see what i mean.
That may or may not be the problem.
Wet plugs is raw fuel, do you know the fuel pressure? edelbrocks aren't as dramatic as holleys when the n&S get overwhelmed, it is hard to see the fuel against the shiney housing.

 

I've never had to tear one down, but lately I've had to adjust mine quite a bit. I was running a Holley Contender intake with no spacer. It ran well, but I knew it could be better, so I added a 1" spacer plate. I finally got it dialed in a couple days ago. I ended up having my A/F 2 turns out. I'm considering going to a 4-5 PSI fuel pump. It bogs a little off the line.

I'd say your problem is either with the needle in that port or the port itself. If something got in there, I think it would scar or open up that port causing fuel to get through. That seems like the only cause for your problem, as far as the needles go.

Again, I'm no carb expert, so I'm looking at things from an obvious view point.

 

i'm at 4 1/2 pressure. tomarow i'm going to call edelbrock tech line.

 

oj, I sprayed all around the carb. base gasket, wouldn't I of hit the va***e leak?

 

Some of the early 2101s needed the thin spacer plate mentioned earlier, but later ones do not. Sounds like a removal and cleaning is in need. Do you have any friends who have done one or any carb? Any vat or ultrasonic access > These are things to consider, if you are to do it yourself, READ READ! AFBs are very easy to rebuild, just pay attention and blow out all p***ages well. Good luck.

 

I've had nothing but trouble with my 1406, can't seem to get any results with jet/rod changes and no matter what I do it runs rich. I've bought the "tune" kit with no results, even got their tech line and had terrible results.... So..... I took it off and gave it a ride to a gun range, set it out there about 100 yards and shot the damn thing to pieces.

I now run a Quick Fuel that really works great and is adjustable!!!! I've had great tuning results and fuel economy. I think Edelbrock has lost their way with these carbs. I have heard of a lot of problems lately with them.

My advice..... s**** it and move on to another carb or even the Holley Terminator EFI system. I have ordered that system for another car of mine and if it works as advertised I will change the Quick Fuel to it too.

good luck...

 

oldguard, it an older one. gotta speak with a tech. tomarow, but I don't want him just to sell to me , and give me a lot of bull **** either. I have no problem taking it apart and cleaning it. but I really don't think that's the problem. this thin plate, will that play tricks on my A/F mixture screws if I don't have it on?

 

This screw that has no change ...
Take it out, inspect it for some obvious defects.
If there are none, blow some air into the hole. A small piece of rubber hose on a blow gun should make a nice seal. Try it.

If and when you get it to work , it most likely wont start - expect the other side to be way way out of adjustment to the rich side.

 

I switched out the screws, with no change. I did shoot carb cleaner in the hole no change. i'll try my blow gun.

 

Vicky is right, try that as well. If the plate is needed, it causes a vacuum leak which is a high idle, not your problem, right? Idles right? So it is running rich I think, did you move the metering rod plates and remove the rod and pistons and clean? Good luck.

 

idles great, great throttle response. but very rich, I smell it on my cloths. I didn't touch the metering rods.

 

Are you running the E-10 **** gas? If you have that at your favorite gas station, you're probably forcing all the crud in your tank, lines, and fuel filter into your carb. Also if you have an early 1406 carb it may not be compatible with the E-10 fuel and will require a late rebuild kit with all the rubber parts compatible with E-10 fuel. I've seen this many times. Look for signs of corrosion or discolor inside the fuel bowls, jets, floats, and fuel inlet.

good luck.....

 

What is your vacuum level at idle (e.g., 18"). Make sure your are using the correct step up springs that correlate to your idle vacuum level. If not, your rods may be staying up during idle allowing excess fuel in the idle circuit, thus you are losing adjustability with the a/f screws.

The easiest way to check to make sure your step up rods are down at idle is roatating the cover plate half over the step up pistons and tighten the screws down. Start the vehicle and watch the step up piston to make sure they are all the way down

Just my 2 cents.