I have 37 spindles on my model a. These are on a 36 axle with 37 backing plates and drums... All new wheel bearings and deals installed. However when I put it all together , I cannot tighten the nut enough to put the cotter pin through ... If I take the thick washer off between the nut and bearing, it tightens fine. Any idea why? The bearings and races are all new from macs specifically for these spindles and drums Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Pull the drum off and see if bearings alone. slide all the way onto their places on spindles. Then check out races and see if they are fully seated against the stops in the hubs. If that looks OK...you may have to ***emble all with the old bearings that you took out, and if that fits lay out all the parts and see what has changed. Be very su****ious of Chinese berings lacking part numbers and that sort of thing. Are you sure spindles and hubs are what you think they are, 1937?? Wide 5? That also worries me a bit...not at all sure how one would go about adapting a '37 cable system to anything else. Another thing...if front drums are actually from the '36 parts pile, the bearing area would be right but the drum itself would, I believe, bottom out against any post-1936 backing plate before hub could seat properly.
i've never been able to memorize the differences in 35, 36, and 37 spindles... I thought I read where some of those 3 years are a different snout length? ..and if that is true, what fits with what?
the inner bearing may be the culprit. make sure that the inner edge on the inner race is chamfered, the spindle has a fillet and i`ve seen some bearings that were not chamfered or radiused enough to clear the fillet. tom
They are hydraulic brakes so maybe 40. Was not sure of the were exactly . Backing plates are the original mate to the drums . Bearings look the same . Ill keep investigating Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
1935 spindle has small bolt pattern and long snout like 28-34, so a spacer gives correct bearing to bearing difference. 1936 has small bolt pattern like earlier but short snout like '37-48, later hydraulic drums go right on, '37-8 drums are same as '39. Steering arms also are a bit different from '35. Drums used are different backspace than later, cannot be used with hydraulics 1937 has big bolt pattern and short snout, used up through '41, directly fits all '27-48 drums All use same actual bearings, but in '35 they are spaced a bit more than 1/2" farther apart than later.
It is not on backwards... It may not have the chamfer cut in it , but its on correct Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sounds like you are referring to the inner bearing that is supplied with the kit to put 53 - 56 F-100 brakes on 37 - 48 spindles. You do have to chamfer that bearing.
"They are hydraulic brakes so maybe 40. Was not sure of the were exactly . Backing plates are the original mate to the drums . Bearings look the same . Ill keep investigating " Well, to simplify the thing...sounds like you bought an ***embly of brakes and spindles that was together. That keeps diagnosis pretty simple: 1. Something is not seated to proper dimension...races into hbs or bearings onto spindle...OR... 2. What you changed, bearings and seals, is the wrong stuff. Check #1 carefully...then try ***embling the old stuff, which will presumably fit. Compare new and old stuff and see what is different. If scenario 2 is it, problem arrived from problem manufacturer in China via a problem retailer in NY... Put old stuff back in if not rusted.
Rear bearing was .105 inches to tall... And the washer is .135 thick. So that's what it was... Damn cheap o bearings. I put the originals back in... Thanks guys. It was just one of those things that I never figured a bearing would be a different size .. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The days of buying a new part at the store, taking it out of the box, installing it, and driving happily away are over...many new parts from both specialty places and regular parts stores need close scrutiny, avoidance of any lower-line parts if there's a choice, etc. about like buying at the junkyard and hoping you picked a good whatever... comparing closely with what you are removing is always a good idea, and if you are inexperienced on jobs like these always do one side at a time so you have the other side to refer to... On bearings, if the old Ford ones are shot (they are usually pretty good in my experience), there are cross-ref numbers readily available on here and elsewhere to generic industry numbers, so you can punt and go buy from a bearing house that deals in good quality stuff for industry. Bearing spe******ts can also look at an elderly bearing sample and figure out a match. Seals seem to be a sore point at some of the repro suppliers...be picky about who you buy old Ford stuff from. Spadaro, Joblot, and C&G for Ford V8, Bratton's for Model A. Actually knowledgable people. Bratton even goes so far to list the known problems if the only available part is a piece of ****!
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